That expedition to Mordet Island stands
apart from all the rest of my life, detached, a piece
by itself with an atmosphere of its own. It
would, I suppose, make a book by itself—it
has made a fairly voluminous official report—but
so far as this novel of mine goes it is merely an
episode, a contributory experience, and I mean to
keep it at that.
Vile weather, an impatient fretting
against unbearable slowness and delay, sea—sickness,
general discomfort and humiliating self—revelation
are the master values of these memories.
I was sick all through the journey
out. I don’t know why. It was the
only time I was ever sea-sick, and I have seen some
pretty bad weather since I became a boat-builder.
But that phantom smell of potatoes was peculiarly
vile to me. Coming back on the brig we were
all ill, every one of us, so soon as we got to sea,
poisoned, I firmly believe, by quap. On the
way out most of the others recovered in a few days,
but the stuffiness below, the coarse food, the cramped
dirty accommodation kept me, if not actually sea-sick,
in a state of acute physical wretchedness the whole
time. The ship abounded in cockroaches and more
intimate vermin. I was cold all the time until
after we passed Cape Verde, then I became steamily
hot; I had been too preoccupied with Beatrice and
my keen desire to get the Maud Mary under way at once,
to consider a proper wardrobe for myself, and in particular
I lacked a coat. Heavens! how I lacked that coat!
And, moreover, I was cooped up with two of the worst
bores in Christendom, Pollack and the captain.
Pollack, after conducting his illness in a style
better adapted to the capacity of an opera house than
a small compartment, suddenly got insupportably well
and breezy, and produced a manly pipe in which he smoked
a tobacco as blond as himself, and divided his time
almost equally between smoking it and trying to clean
it. “There’s only three things you
can clean a pipe with,” he used to remark with
a twist of paper in hand. “The best’s
a feather, the second’s a straw, and the third’s
a girl’s hairpin. I never see such a ship.
You can’t find any of ’em. Last
time I came this way I did find hairpins anyway, and
found ’em on the floor of the captain’s
cabin. Regular deposit. Eh?... Feelin’
better?”
At which I usually swore.
“Oh, you’ll be all right
soon. Don’t mind my puffin’ a bit?
Eh?”
He never tired of asking me to “have
a hand at Nap. Good game. Makes you forget
it, and that’s half the battle.”
He would sit swaying with the rolling
of the ship and suck at his pipe of blond tobacco
and look with an inexpressibly sage but somnolent
blue eye at the captain by the hour together.
“Captain’s a Card,” he would say
over and over again as the outcome of these meditations.
“He’d like to know what we’re up
to. He’d like to know—no end.”
That did seem to be the captain’s
ruling idea. But he also wanted to impress me
with the notion that he was a gentleman of good family
and to air a number of views adverse to the English,
to English literature, to the English constitution,
and the like.
He had learnt the sea in the Roumanian
navy, and English out of a book; he would still at
times pronounce the e’s at the end of “there”
and “here”; he was a naturalised Englishman,
and he drove me into a reluctant and uncongenial patriotism
by his everlasting carping at things English.
Pollack would set himself to “draw him out.”
Heaven alone can tell how near I came to murder.
Fifty-three days I had outward, cooped
up with these two and a shy and profoundly depressed
mate who read the Bible on Sundays and spent the rest
of his leisure in lethargy, three and fifty days of
life cooped up in a perpetual smell, in a persistent
sick hunger that turned from the sight of food, in
darkness, cold and wet, in a lightly ballasted ship
that rolled and pitched and swayed. And all
the time the sands in the hour-glass of my uncle’s
fortunes were streaming out. Misery! Amidst
it all I remember only one thing brightly, one morning
of sunshine in the Bay of Biscay and a vision of frothing
waves, sapphire green, a bird following our wake and
our masts rolling about the sky. Then wind and
rain close in on us again.
You must not imagine they were ordinary
days, days, I mean, of an average length; they were
not so much days as long damp slabs of time that stretched
each one to the horizon, and much of that length was
night. One paraded the staggering deck in a borrowed
sou’-wester hour after hour in the chilly, windy,
splashing and spitting darkness, or sat in the cabin,
bored and ill, and looked at the faces of those inseparable
companions by the help of a lamp that gave smell rather
than light. Then one would see going up, up,
up, and then sinking down, down, down, Pollack, extinct
pipe in mouth, humorously observant, bringing his mind
slowly to the seventy-seventh decision that the captain
was a Card, while the words flowed from the latter
in a nimble incessant good. “Dis England
eet is not a country aristocratic, no! Eet is
a glorified bourgeoisie! Eet is plutocratic.
In England dere is no aristocracy since de Wars of
Roses. In the rest of Europe east of the Latins,
yes; in England, no.
“Eet is all middle-class, youra
England. Everything you look at, middle-class.
Respectable! Everything good—eet
is, you say, shocking. Madame Grundy!
Eet is all limited and computing and self-seeking.
Dat is why your art is so limited, youra fiction,
your philosophin, why you are all so inartistic.
You want nothing but profit! What will pay!
What would you?”...
He had all those violent adjuncts
to speech we Western Europeans have abandoned, shruggings
of the shoulders, waving of the arms, thrusting out
of the face, wonderful grimaces and twiddlings of
the hands under your nose until you wanted to hit them
away. Day after day it went on, and I had to
keep any anger to myself, to reserve myself for the
time ahead when it would be necessary to see the quap
was got aboard and stowed—knee deep in this
man’s astonishment. I knew he would make
a thousand objections to all we had before us.
He talked like a drugged man. It ran glibly
over his tongue. And all the time one could see
his seamanship fretting him, he was gnawed by responsibility,
perpetually uneasy about the ship’s position,
perpetually imagining dangers. If a sea hit
us exceptionally hard he’d be out of the cabin
in an instant making an outcry of inquiries, and he
was pursued by a dread of the hold, of ballast shifting,
of insidious wicked leaks. As we drew near the
African coast his fear of rocks and shoals became
infectious.
“I do not know dis coast,”
he used to say. “I cama hera because Gordon-Nasmyth
was coming too. Den he does not come!”
“Fortunes of war,” I said,
and tried to think in vain if any motive but sheer
haphazard could have guided Gordon-Nasmyth in the
choice of these two men. I think perhaps Gordon-Nasmyth
had the artistic temperament and wanted contrasts,
and also that the captain helped him to express his
own malignant Anti-Britishism.
He was indeed an exceptionally inefficient
captain. On the whole I was glad I had come
even at the eleventh hour to see to things.
(The captain, by-the-by, did at last,
out of sheer nervousness, get aground at the end of
Mordet’s Island, but we got off in an hour or
so with a swell and a little hard work in the boat.)
I suspected the mate of his opinion
of the captain long before he expressed it.
He was, I say, a taciturn man, but one day speech
broke through him. He had been sitting at the
table with his arms folded on it, musing drearily,
pipe in mouth, and the voice of the captain drifted
down from above.
The mate lifted his heavy eyes to
me and regarded me for a moment. Then he began
to heave with the beginnings of speech. He disembarrassed
himself of his pipe. I cowered with expectation.
Speech was coming at last. Before he spoke he
nodded reassuringly once or twice.
“E—”
He moved his head strangely and mysteriously,
but a child might have known he spoke of the captain.
“E’s a foreigner.”
He regarded me doubtfully for a time,
and at last decided for the sake of lucidity to clench
the matter.
“That’s what E is—a DAGO!”
He nodded like a man who gives a last
tap to a nail, and I could see he considered his remark
well and truly laid. His face, though still
resolute, became as tranquil and uneventful as a huge
hall after a public meeting has dispersed out of it,
and finally he closed and locked it with his pipe.
“Roumanian Jew, isn’t he?” I said.
He nodded darkly and almost forbiddingly.
More would have been too much.
The thing was said. But from that time forth
I knew I could depend upon him and that he and I were
friends. It happens I never did have to depend
upon him, but that does not affect our relationship.
Forward the crew lived lives very
much after the fashion of ours, more crowded, more
cramped and dirty, wetter, steamier, more verminous.
The coarse food they had was still not so coarse but
that they did not think they were living “like
fighting cocks.” So far as I could make
out they were all nearly destitute men; hardly any
of them had a proper sea outfit, and what small possessions
they had were a source of mutual distrust. And
as we pitched and floundered southward they gambled
and fought, were brutal to one another, argued and
wrangled loudly, until we protested at the uproar.
There’s no romance about the
sea in a small sailing ship as I saw it. The
romance is in the mind of the landsman dreamer.
These brigs and schooners and brigantines that still
stand out from every little port are relics from an
age of petty trade, as rotten and obsolescent as a
Georgian house that has sunken into a slum.
They are indeed just floating fragments of slum, much
as icebergs are floating fragments of glacier.
The civilised man who has learnt to wash, who has
developed a sense of physical honour, of cleanly
temperate feeding, of time, can endure them no more.
They pass, and the clanking coal-wasting steamers
will follow them, giving place to cleaner, finer things….
But so it was I made my voyage to
Africa, and came at last into a world of steamy fogs
and a hot smell of vegetable decay, and into sound
and sight of surf and distant intermittent glimpses
of the coast. I lived a strange concentrated
life through all that time, such a life as a creature
must do that has fallen in a well. All my former
ways ceased, all my old vistas became memories.
The situation I was saving was very
small and distant now; I felt its urgency no more.
Beatrice and Lady Grove, my uncle and the Hardingham,
my soaring in the air and my habitual wide vision of
swift effectual things, became as remote as if they
were in some world I had left for ever….