Reader, perhaps you were never
in Belgium? Haply you don’t know the physiognomy
of the country? You have not its lineaments
defined upon your memory, as I have them on mine?
Three—nay four—pictures
line the four-walled cell where are stored for me
the records of the past. First, Eton. All
in that picture is in far perspective, receding, diminutive;
but freshly coloured, green, dewy, with a spring sky,
piled with glittering yet showery clouds; for my childhood
was not all sunshine—it had its overcast,
its cold, its stormy hours. Second, X——,
huge, dingy; the canvas cracked and smoked; a yellow
sky, sooty clouds; no sun, no azure; the verdure of
the suburbs blighted and sullied—a very
dreary scene.
Third, Belgium; and I will pause before
this landscape. As to the fourth, a curtain covers
it, which I may hereafter withdraw, or may not, as
suits my convenience and capacity. At any rate,
for the present it must hang undisturbed. Belgium!
name unromantic and unpoetic, yet name that whenever
uttered has in my ear a sound, in my heart an echo,
such as no other assemblage of syllables, however
sweet or classic, can produce. Belgium!
I repeat the word, now as I sit alone near midnight.
It stirs my world of the past like a summons to resurrection;
the graves unclose, the dead are raised; thoughts,
feelings, memories that slept, are seen by me ascending
from the clods—haloed most of them—but
while I gaze on their vapoury forms, and strive to
ascertain definitely their outline, the sound which
wakened them dies, and they sink, each and all, like
a light wreath of mist, absorbed in the mould, recalled
to urns, resealed in monuments. Farewell, luminous
phantoms!
This is Belgium, reader. Look!
don’t call the picture a flat or a dull one—it
was neither flat nor dull to me when I first beheld
it. When I left Ostend on a mild February morning,
and found myself on the road to Brussels, nothing
could look vapid to me. My sense of enjoyment
possessed an edge whetted to the finest, untouched,
keen, exquisite. I was young; I had good health;
pleasure and I had never met; no indulgence of hers
had enervated or sated one faculty of my nature.
Liberty I clasped in my arms for the first time, and
the influence of her smile and embrace revived my
life like the sun and the west wind. Yes, at
that epoch I felt like a morning traveller who doubts
not that from the hill he is ascending he shall behold
a glorious sunrise; what if the track be strait, steep,
and stony? he sees it not; his eyes are fixed on that
summit, flushed already, flushed and gilded, and having
gained it he is certain of the scene beyond.
He knows that the sun will face him, that his chariot
is even now coming over the eastern horizon, and that
the herald breeze he feels on his cheek is opening
for the god’s career a clear, vast path of azure,
amidst clouds soft as pearl and warm as flame.
Difficulty and toil were to be my lot, but sustained
by energy, drawn on by hopes as bright as vague, I
deemed such a lot no hardship. I mounted now
the hill in shade; there were pebbles, inequalities,
briars in my path, but my eyes were fixed on the crimson
peak above; my imagination was with the refulgent
firmament beyond, and I thought nothing of the stones
turning under my feet, or of the thorns scratching
my face and hands.
I gazed often, and always with delight,
from the window of the diligence (these, be it remembered,
were not the days of trains and railroads).
Well! and what did I see? I will tell you faithfully.
Green, reedy swamps; fields fertile but flat, cultivated
in patches that made them look like magnified kitchen-gardens;
belts of cut trees, formal as pollard willows, skirting
the horizon; narrow canals, gliding slow by the road-side;
painted Flemish farmhouses; some very dirty hovels;
a gray, dead sky; wet road, wet fields, wet house-tops:
not a beautiful, scarcely a picturesque object met
my eye along the whole route; yet to me, all was beautiful,
all was more than picturesque. It continued
fair so long as daylight lasted, though the moisture
of many preceding damp days had sodden the whole country;
as it grew dark, however, the rain recommenced, and
it was through streaming and starless darkness my eye
caught the first gleam of the lights of Brussels.
I saw little of the city but its lights that night.
Having alighted from the diligence, a fiacre conveyed
me to the Hotel de ——, where I had
been advised by a fellow-traveller to put up; having
eaten a traveller’s supper, I retired to bed,
and slept a traveller’s sleep.
Next morning I awoke from prolonged
and sound repose with the impression that I was yet
in X——, and perceiving it to be
broad daylight I started up, imagining that I had overslept
myself and should be behind time at the counting-house.
The momentary and painful sense of restraint vanished
before the revived and reviving consciousness of freedom,
as, throwing back the white curtains of my bed, I
looked forth into a wide, lofty foreign chamber;
how different from the small and dingy, though not
uncomfortable, apartment I had occupied for a night
or two at a respectable inn in London while waiting
for the sailing of the packet! Yet far be it
from me to profane the memory of that little dingy
room! It, too, is dear to my soul; for there,
as I lay in quiet and darkness, I first heard the
great bell of St. Paul’s telling London it was
midnight, and well do I recall the deep, deliberate
tones, so full charged with colossal phlegm and force.
From the small, narrow window of that room, I first
saw the dome, looming through a London mist.
I suppose the sensations, stirred by those first
sounds, first sights, are felt but once; treasure
them, Memory; seal them in urns, and keep them in
safe niches! Well—I rose. Travellers
talk of the apartments in foreign dwellings being
bare and uncomfortable; I thought my chamber looked
stately and cheerful. It had such large windows
—CROISEES that opened like doors, with such
broad, clear panes of glass; such a great looking-glass
stood on my dressing-table —such a fine
mirror glittered over the mantelpiece—the
painted floor looked so clean and glossy; when I had
dressed and was descending the stairs, the broad marble
steps almost awed me, and so did the lofty hall into
which they conducted. On the first landing I
met a Flemish housemaid: she had wooden shoes,
a short red petticoat, a printed cotton bedgown, her
face was broad, her physiognomy eminently stupid;
when I spoke to her in French, she answered me in
Flemish, with an air the reverse of civil; yet I thought
her charming; if she was not pretty or polite, she
was, I conceived, very picturesque; she reminded me
of the female figures in certain Dutch paintings I
had seen in other years at Seacombe Hall.
I repaired to the public room; that,
too, was very large and very lofty, and warmed by
a stove; the floor was black, and the stove was black,
and most of the furniture was black: yet I never
experienced a freer sense of exhilaration than when
I sat down at a very long, black table (covered, however,
in part by a white cloth), and, having ordered breakfast,
began to pour out my coffee from a little black coffee-pot.
The stove might be dismal-looking to some eyes, not
to mine, but it was indisputably very warm, and there
were two gentlemen seated by it talking in French;
impossible to follow their rapid utterance, or comprehend
much of the purport of what they said—yet
French, in the mouths of Frenchmen, or Belgians (I
was not then sensible of the horrors of the Belgian
accent) was as music to my ears. One of these
gentlemen presently discerned me to be an Englishman—no
doubt from the fashion in which I addressed the waiter;
for I would persist in speaking French in my execrable
South-of-England style, though the man understood
English. The gentleman, after looking towards
me once or twice, politely accosted me in very good
English; I remember I wished to God that I could speak
French as well; his fluency and correct pronunciation
impressed me for the first time with a due notion
of the cosmopolitan character of the capital I was
in; it was my first experience of that skill in living
languages I afterwards found to be so general in Brussels.
I lingered over my breakfast as long
as I could; while it was there on the table, and while
that stranger continued talking to me, I was a free,
independent traveller; but at last the things were
removed, the two gentlemen left the room; suddenly
the illusion ceased, reality and business came back.
I, a bondsman just released from the yoke, freed
for one week from twenty-one years of constraint,
must, of necessity, resume the fetters of dependency.
Hardly had I tasted the delight of being without a
master when duty issued her stern mandate: “Go
forth and seek another service.” I never
linger over a painful and necessary task; I never
take pleasure before business, it is not in my nature
to do so; impossible to enjoy a leisurely walk over
the city, though I perceived the morning was very
fine, until I had first presented Mr. Hunsden’s
letter of introduction, and got fairly on to the track
of a new situation. Wrenching my mind from liberty
and delight, I seized my hat, and forced my reluctant
body out of the Hotel de —— into
the foreign street.
It was a fine day, but I would not
look at the blue sky or at the stately houses round
me; my mind was bent on one thing, finding out “Mr.
Brown, Numero —, Rue Royale,” for
so my letter was addressed. By dint of inquiry
I succeeded; I stood at last at the desired door,
knocked, asked for Mr. Brown, and was admitted.
Being shown into a small breakfast-room,
I found myself in the presence of an elderly gentleman—very
grave, business-like, and respectable-looking.
I presented Mr. Hunsden’s letter; he received
me very civilly. After a little desultory conversation
he asked me if there was anything in which his advice
or experience could be of use. I said, ” Yes,”
and then proceeded to tell him that I was not a gentleman
of fortune, travelling for pleasure, but an ex-counting-house
clerk, who wanted employment of some kind, and that
immediately too. He replied that as a friend
of Mr. Hunsden’s he would be willing to assist
me as well as he could. After some meditation
he named a place in a mercantile house at Liege, and
another in a bookseller’s shop at Louvain.
“Clerk and shopman!”
murmured I to myself. “No.”
I shook my head. I had tried the high stool;
I hated it; I believed there were other occupations
that would suit me better; besides I did not wish
to leave Brussels.
“I know of no place in Brussels,”
answered Mr. Brown, “unless indeed you were
disposed to turn your attention to teaching.
I am acquainted with the director of a large establishment
who is in want of a professor of English and Latin.”
I thought two minutes, then I seized
the idea eagerly.
“The very thing, sir!” said I.
“But,” asked he, “do
you understand French well enough to teach Belgian
boys English?”
Fortunately I could answer this question
in the affirmative; having studied French under a
Frenchman, I could speak the language intelligibly
though not fluently. I could also read it well,
and write it decently.
“Then,” pursued Mr. Brown,
“I think I can promise you the place, for Monsieur
Pelet will not refuse a professor recommended by me;
but come here again at five o’clock this afternoon,
and I will introduce you to him.”
The word “professor” struck
me. “I am not a professor,” said
I.
“Oh,” returned Mr. Brown,
“professor, here in Belgium, means a teacher,
that is all.”
My conscience thus quieted, I thanked
Mr. Brown, and, for the present, withdrew. This
time I stepped out into the street with a relieved
heart; the task I had imposed on myself for that day
was executed. I might now take some hours of
holiday. I felt free to look up. For the
first time I remarked the sparkling clearness of the
air, the deep blue of the sky, the gay clean aspect
of the white-washed or painted houses; I saw what a
fine street was the Rue Royale, and, walking leisurely
along its broad pavement, I continued to survey its
stately hotels, till the palisades, the gates, and
trees of the park appearing in sight, offered to my
eye a new attraction. I remember, before entering
the park, I stood awhile to contemplate the statue
of General Belliard, and then I advanced to the top
of the great staircase just beyond, and I looked down
into a narrow back street, which I afterwards learnt
was called the Rue d’Isabelle. I well
recollect that my eye rested on the green door of a
rather large house opposite, where, on a brass plate,
was inscribed, “Pensionnat de Demoiselles.”
Pensionnat! The word excited an uneasy sensation
in my mind; it seemed to speak of restraint.
Some of the demoiselles, externats no doubt, were at
that moment issuing from the door—I looked
for a pretty face amongst them, but their close, little
French bonnets hid their features; in a moment they
were gone.
I had traversed a good deal of Brussels
before five o’clock arrived, but punctually
as that hour struck I was again in the Rue Royale.
Re-admitted to Mr. Brown’s breakfast-room, I
found him, as before, seated at the table, and he
was not alone—a gentleman stood by the
hearth. Two words of introduction designated
him as my future master. “M. Pelet,
Mr. Crimsworth; Mr. Crimsworth, M. Pelet” a
bow on each side finished the ceremony. I don’t
know what sort of a bow I made; an ordinary one, I
suppose, for I was in a tranquil, commonplace frame
of mind; I felt none of the agitation which had troubled
my first interview with Edward Crimsworth. M.
Pelet’s bow was extremely polite, yet not theatrical,
scarcely French; he and I were presently seated opposite
to each other. In a pleasing voice, low, and,
out of consideration to my foreign ears, very distinct
and deliberate, M. Pelet intimated that he had just
been receiving from “le respectable M. Brown,”
an account of my attainments and character, which
relieved him from all scruple as to the propriety
of engaging me as professor of English and Latin in
his establishment; nevertheless, for form’s sake,
he would put a few questions to test; my powers.
He did, and expressed in flattering terms his satisfaction
at my answers. The subject of salary next came
on; it was fixed at one thousand francs per annum,
besides board and lodging. “And in addition,”
suggested M. Pelet, “as there will be some hours
in each day during which your services will not be
required in my establishment, you may, in time, obtain
employment in other seminaries, and thus turn your
vacant moments to profitable account.”
I thought this very kind, and indeed
I found afterwards that the terms on which M. Pelet
had engaged me were really liberal for Brussels; instruction
being extremely cheap there on account of the number
of teachers. It was further arranged that I should
be installed in my new post the very next day, after
which M. Pelet and I parted.
Well, and what was he like? and what
were my impressions concerning him? He was a
man of about forty years of age, of middle size, and
rather emaciated figure; his face was pale, his cheeks
were sunk, and his eyes hollow; his features were pleasing
and regular, they had a French turn (for M. Pelet was
no Fleming, but a Frenchman both by birth and parentage),
yet the degree of harshness inseparable from Gallic
lineaments was, in his case, softened by a mild blue
eye, and a melancholy, almost suffering, expression
of countenance; his physiognomy was “fine et
spirituelle.” I use two French words because
they define better than any English terms the species
of intelligence with which his features were imbued.
He was altogether an interesting and prepossessing
personage. I wondered only at the utter absence
of all the ordinary characteristics of his profession,
and almost feared he could not be stern and resolute
enough for a schoolmaster. Externally at least
M. Pelet presented an absolute contrast to my late
master, Edward Crimsworth.
Influenced by the impression I had
received of his gentleness, I was a good deal surprised
when, on arriving the next day at my new employer’s
house, and being admitted to a first view of what
was to be the sphere of my future labours, namely the
large, lofty, and well lighted schoolrooms, I beheld
a numerous assemblage of pupils, boys of course, whose
collective appearance showed all the signs of a full,
flourishing, and well-disciplined seminary. As
I traversed the classes in company with M. Pelet, a
profound silence reigned on all sides, and if by chance
a murmur or a whisper arose, one glance from the pensive
eye of this most gentle pedagogue stilled it instantly.
It was astonishing, I thought, how so mild a check
could prove so effectual. When I had perambulated
the length and breadth of the classes, M. Pelet turned
and said to me—
“Would you object to taking
the boys as they are, and testing their proficiency
in English?”
The proposal was unexpected.
I had thought I should have been allowed at least
3 days to prepare; but it is a bad omen to commence
any career by hesitation, so I just stepped to the
professor’s desk near which we stood, and faced
the circle of my pupils. I took a moment to
collect my thoughts, and likewise to frame in French
the sentence by which I proposed to open business.
I made it as short as possible:—
“Messieurs, prenez vos livres de lecture.”
“Anglais ou Francais, monsieur?”
demanded a thickset, moon-faced young Flamand in
a blouse. The answer was fortunately easy:—
“Anglais.”
I determined to give myself as little
trouble as possible in this lesson; it would not do
yet to trust my unpractised tongue with the delivery
of explanations; my accent and idiom would be too
open to the criticisms of the young gentlemen before
me, relative to whom I felt already it would be necessary
at once to take up an advantageous position, and I
proceeded to employ means accordingly.
“Commencez!” cried I,
when they had all produced their books. The moon-faced
youth (by name Jules Vanderkelkov, as I afterwards
learnt) took the first sentence. The “livre
de lecture” was the “Vicar of Wakefield,”
much used in foreign schools because it is supposed
to contain prime samples of conversational English;
it might, however, have been a Runic scroll for any
resemblance the words, as enunciated by Jules, bore
to the language in ordinary use amongst the natives
of Great Britain. My God! how he did snuffle,
snort, and wheeze! All he said was said in his
throat and nose, for it is thus the Flamands speak,
but I heard him to the end of his paragraph without
proffering a word of correction, whereat he looked
vastly self-complacent, convinced, no doubt, that
he had acquitted himself like a real born and bred
“Anglais.” In the same unmoved silence
I listened to a dozen in rotation, and when the twelfth
had concluded with splutter, hiss, and mumble, I solemnly
laid down the book.
“Arretez!” said I. There
was a pause, during which I regarded them all with
a steady and somewhat stern gaze; a dog, if stared
at hard enough and long enough, will show symptoms
of embarrassment, and so at length did my bench of
Belgians. Perceiving that some of the faces before
me were beginning to look sullen, and others ashamed,
I slowly joined my hands, and ejaculated in a deep
“voix de poitrine”—
“Comme c’est affreux!”
They looked at each other, pouted,
coloured, swung their heels; they were not pleased,
I saw, but they were impressed, and in the way I wished
them to be. Having thus taken them down a peg
in their self-conceit, the next step was to raise
myself in their estimation; not a very easy thing,
considering that I hardly dared to speak for fear
of betraying my own deficiencies.
“Ecoutez, messieurs!”
said I, and I endeavoured to throw into my accents
the compassionate tone of a superior being, who, touched
by the extremity of the helplessness, which at first
only excited his scorn, deigns at length to bestow
aid. I then began at the very beginning of the
“Vicar of Wakefield,” and read, in a slow,
distinct voice, some twenty pages, they all the while
sitting mute and listening with fixed attention; by
the time I had done nearly an hour had elapsed.
I then rose and said:—
“C’est assez pour aujourd’hui,
messieurs; demain nous recommencerons, et j’espere
que tout ira bien.”
With this oracular sentence I bowed,
and in company with M. Pelet quitted the school-room.
“C’est bien! c’est
tres bien!” said my principal as we entered
his parlour. “Je vois que monsieur
a de l’adresse; cela, me plait, car, dans l’instruction,
l’adresse fait tout autant que le savoir.”
>From the parlour M. Pelet conducted
me to my apartment, my “chambre,” as Monsieur
said with a certain air of complacency. It was
a very small room, with an excessively small bed, but
M. Pelet gave me to understand that I was to occupy
it quite alone, which was of course a great comfort.
Yet, though so limited in dimensions, it had two
windows. Light not being taxed in Belgium, the
people never grudge its admission into their houses;
just here, however, this observation is not very APROPOS,
for one of these windows was boarded up; the open
windows looked into the boys’ playground.
I glanced at the other, as wondering what aspect
it would present if disencumbered of the boards.
M. Pelet read, I suppose, the expression of my eye;
he explained:—
“La fenetre fermee donne sur
un jardin appartenant a un pensionnat de demoiselles,”
said he, “et les convenances exigent —enfin,
vous comprenez—n’est-ce pas, monsieur?”
“Oui, oui,” was my reply,
and I looked of course quite satisfied; but when M.
Pelet had retired and closed the door after him, the
first thing I did was to scrutinize closely the nailed
boards, hoping to find some chink or crevice which
I might enlarge, and so get a peep at the consecrated
ground. My researches were vain, for the boards
were well joined and strongly nailed. It is
astonishing how disappointed I felt. I thought
it would have been so pleasant to have looked out
upon a garden planted with flowers and trees, so amusing
to have watched the demoiselles at their play; to
have studied female character in a variety of phases,
myself the while sheltered from view by a modest muslin
curtain, whereas, owing doubtless to the absurd scruples
of some old duenna of a directress, I had now only
the option of looking at a bare gravelled court, with
an enormous “pas de geant” in the middle,
and the monotonous walls and windows of a boys’
school-house round. Not only then, but many a
time after, especially in moments of weariness and
low spirits, did I look with dissatisfied eyes on
that most tantalizing board, longing to tear it away
and get a glimpse of the green region which I imagined
to lie beyond. I knew a tree grew close up to
the window, for though there were as yet no leaves
to rustle, I often heard at night the tapping of branches
against the panes. In the daytime, when I listened
attentively, I could hear, even through the boards,
the voices of the demoiselles in their hours of recreation,
and, to speak the honest truth, my sentimental reflections
were occasionally a trifle disarranged by the not
quite silvery, in fact the too often brazen sounds,
which, rising from the unseen paradise below, penetrated
clamorously into my solitude. Not to mince matters,
it really seemed to me a doubtful case whether the
lungs of Mdlle. Reuter’s girls or those
of M. Pelet’s boys were the strongest, and when
it came to shrieking the girls indisputably beat the
boys hollow. I forgot to say, by-the-by, that
Reuter was the name of the old lady who had had my
window bearded up. I say old, for such I, of
course, concluded her to be, judging from her cautious,
chaperon-like proceedings; besides, nobody ever spoke
of her as young. I remember I was very much amused
when I first heard her Christian name; it was Zoraide—Mademoiselle
Zoraide Reuter. But the continental nations
do allow themselves vagaries in the choice of names,
such as we sober English never run into. I think,
indeed, we have too limited a list to choose from.
Meantime my path was gradually growing
smooth before me. I, in a few weeks, conquered
the teasing difficulties inseparable from the commencement
of almost every career. Ere long I had acquired
as much facility in speaking French as set me at my
ease with my pupils; and as I had encountered them
on a right footing at the very beginning, and continued
tenaciously to retain the advantage I had early gained,
they never attempted mutiny, which circumstance, all
who are in any degree acquainted with the ongoings
of Belgian schools, and who know the relation in which
professors and pupils too frequently stand towards
each other in those establishments, will consider
an important and uncommon one. Before concluding
this chapter I will say a word on the system I pursued
with regard to my classes: my experience may
possibly be of use to others.
It did not require very keen observation
to detect the character of the youth of Brabant, but
it needed a certain degree of tact to adopt one’s
measures to their capacity. Their intellectual
faculties were generally weak, their animal propensities
strong; thus there was at once an impotence and a
kind of inert force in their natures; they were dull,
but they were also singularly stubborn, heavy as lead
and, like lead, most difficult to move. Such
being the case, it would have been truly absurd to
exact from them much in the way of mental exertion;
having short memories, dense intelligence, feeble
reflective powers, they recoiled with repugnance from
any occupation that demanded close study or deep thought.
Had the abhorred effort been extorted from them by
injudicious and arbitrary measures on the part of
the Professor, they would have resisted as obstinately,
as clamorously, as desperate swine; and though not
brave singly, they were relentless acting en
MASSE.
I understood that before my arrival
in M. Pelet’s establishment, the combined insubordination
of the pupils had effected the dismissal of more than
one English master. It was necessary then to
exact only the most moderate application from natures
so little qualified to apply—to assist,
in every practicable way, understandings so opaque
and contracted—to be ever gentle, considerate,
yielding even, to a certain point, with dispositions
so irrationally perverse; but, having reached that
culminating point of indulgence, you must fix your
foot, plant it, root it in rock—become
immutable as the towers of Ste. Gudule; for a
step —but half a step farther, and you
would plunge headlong into the gulf of imbecility;
there lodged, you would speedily receive proofs of
Flemish gratitude and magnanimity in showers of Brabant
saliva and handfuls of Low Country mud. You might
smooth to the utmost the path of learning, remove
every pebble from the track; but then you must finally
insist with decision on the pupil taking your arm
and allowing himself to be led quietly along the prepared
road. When I had brought down my lesson to the
lowest level of my dullest pupil’s capacity—when
I had shown myself the mildest, the most tolerant
of masters—a word of impertinence, a movement
of disobedience, changed me at once into a despot.
I offered then but one alternative—submission
and acknowledgment of error, or ignominious expulsion.
This system answered, and my influence, by degrees,
became established on a firm basis. “The
boy is father to the man,” it is said; and so
I often thought when looked at my boys and remembered
the political history of their ancestors. Pelet’s
school was merely an epitome of the Belgian nation.