Our route was carrying us to the eastward
of the Black Hills. The regular trail to the
Yellowstone and Montana points was by the way of the
Powder River, through Wyoming; but as we were only
grazing across to our destination, the most direct
route was adopted. The first week after leaving
the Niobrara was without incident, except the meeting
with a band of Indians, who were gathering and drying
the wild fruit in which the country abounded.
At first sighting their camp we were uneasy, holding
the herd close together; but as they proved friendly,
we relaxed and shared our tobacco with the men.
The women were nearly all of one stature, short, heavy,
and repulsive in appearance, while the men were tall,
splendid specimens of the aborigines, and as uniform
in a dozen respects as the cattle we were driving.
Communication was impossible, except by signs, but
the chief had a letter of permission from the agent
at Pine Ridge, allowing himself and band a month’s
absence from the reservation on a berrying expedition.
The bucks rode with us for hours, silently absorbed
in the beeves, and towards evening turned and galloped
away for their encampment.
It must have been the latter part
of July when we reached the South Fork of the Big
Cheyenne River. The lead was first held by one
and then the other herd, but on reaching that watercourse,
we all found it more formidable than we expected.
The stage of water was not only swimming, but where
we struck it, the river had an abrupt cut-bank on
one side or the other. Sponsilier happened to
be in the lead, and Forrest and myself held back to
await the decision of the veteran foreman. The
river ran on a northwest angle where we encountered
it, and Dave followed down it some distance looking
for a crossing. The herds were only three or
four miles apart, and assistance could have been rendered
each other, but it was hardly to be expected that
an older foreman would ask either advice or help from
younger ones. Hence Quince and myself were in
no hurry, nor did we intrude ourselves on David the
pathfinder, but sought out a crossing up the river
and on our course. A convenient riffle was soon
found in the river which would admit the passage of
the wagons without rafting, if a cut-bank on the south
side could be overcome. There was an abrupt drop
of about ten feet to the water level, and I argued
that a wagon-way could be easily cut in the bank and
the commissaries lowered to the river’s edge
with a rope to the rear axle. Forrest also favored
the idea, and I was authorized to cross the wagons
in case a suitable ford could be found for the cattle.
My aversion to manual labor was quite pronounced,
yet John Q. Forrest wheedled me into accepting the
task of making a wagon-road. About a mile above
the riffle, a dry wash cut a gash in the bluff bank
on the opposite side, which promised the necessary
passageway for the herds out of the river. The
slope on the south side was gradual, affording an
easy inlet to the water, the only danger being on
the other bank, the dry wash not being over thirty
feet wide. But we both agreed that by putting
the cattle in well above the passageway, even if the
current was swift, an easy and successful ford would
result. Forrest volunteered to cross the cattle,
and together we returned to the herds for dinner.
Quince allowed me one of his men besides
the cook, and detailed Clay Zilligan to assist with
the wagons. We took my remuda, the spades and
axes, and started for the riffle. The commissaries
had orders to follow up, and Forrest rode away with
a supercilious air, as if the crossing of wagons was
beneath the attention of a foreman of his standing.
Several hours of hard work were spent with the implements
at hand in cutting the wagon-way through the bank,
after which my saddle horses were driven up and down;
and when it was pronounced finished, it looked more
like a beaver-slide than a roadway. But a strong
stake was cut and driven into the ground, and a corral-rope
taken from the axle to it; without detaching the teams,
the wagons were eased down the incline and crossed
in safety, the water not being over three feet deep
in the shallows. I was elated over the ease and
success of my task, when Zilligan called attention
to the fact that the first herd had not yet crossed.
The chosen ford was out of sight, but had the cattle
been crossing, we could have easily seen them on the
mesa opposite. “Well,” said Clay,
“the wagons are over, and what’s more,
all the mules in the three outfits couldn’t
bring one of them back up that cliff.”
We mounted our horses, paying no attention
to Zilligan’s note of warning, and started up
the river. But before we came in view of the
ford, a great shouting reached our ears, and giving
our horses the rowel, we rounded a bend, only to be
confronted with the river full of cattle which had
missed the passageway out on the farther side.
A glance at the situation revealed a dangerous predicament,
as the swift water and the contour of the river held
the animals on the farther side or under the cut-bank.
In numerous places there was footing on the narrow
ledges to which the beeves clung like shipwrecked
sailors, constantly crowding each other off into the
current and being carried downstream hundreds of yards
before again catching a foothold. Above and below
the chosen ford, the river made a long gradual bend,
the current and deepest water naturally hugged the
opposite shore, and it was impossible for the cattle
to turn back, though the swimming water was not over
forty yards wide. As we dashed up, the outfit
succeeded in cutting the train of cattle and turning
them back, though fully five hundred were in the river,
while not over one fifth that number had crossed in
safety. Forrest was as cool as could be expected,
and exercised an elegant command of profanity in issuing
his orders.
“I did allow for the swiftness
of the current,” said he, in reply to a criticism
of mine, “but those old beeves just drifted
downstream like a lot of big tubs. The horses
swam it easy, and the first hundred cattle struck
the mouth of the wash square in the eye, but after
that they misunderstood it for a bath instead of a
ford. Oh, well, it’s live and learn, die
and forget it. But since you’re so d—
strong on the sabe, suppose you suggest a way of getting
those beeves out of the river.”
It was impossible to bring them back,
and the only alternative was attempted. About
three quarters of a mile down the river the cut-bank
shifted to the south side. If the cattle could
swim that distance there was an easy landing below.
The beeves belonged to Forrest’s herd, and I
declined the proffered leadership, but plans were
outlined and we started the work of rescue. Only
a few men were left to look after the main herds,
the remainder of us swimming the river on our horses.
One man was detailed to drive the contingent which
had safely forded, down to the point where the bluff
bank shifted and the incline commenced on the north
shore. The cattle were clinging, in small bunches,
under the cut-bank like swallows to a roof for fully
a quarter-mile below the mouth of the dry wash.
Divesting ourselves of all clothing, a squad of six
of us, by way of experiment, dropped over the bank
and pushed into the river about twenty of the lowest
cattle. On catching the full force of the current,
which ran like a mill-race, we swept downstream at
a rapid pace, sometimes clinging to a beef’s
tail, but generally swimming between the cattle and
the bluff. The force of the stream drove them
against the bank repeatedly, but we dashed water in
their eyes and pushed them off again and again, and
finally landed every steer.
The Big Cheyenne was a mountain stream,
having numerous tributaries heading in the Black Hills.
The water was none too warm, and when we came out
the air chilled us; but we scaled the bluff and raced
back after more cattle. Forrest was in the river
on our return, but I ordered his wrangler to drive
all the horses under saddle down to the landing, in
order that the men could have mounts for returning.
This expedited matters, and the work progressed more
rapidly. Four separate squads were drifting the
cattle, but in the third contingent we cut off too
many beeves and came near drowning two fine ones.
The animals in question were large and strong, but
had stood for nearly an hour on a slippery ledge,
frequently being crowded into the water, and were
on the verge of collapse from nervous exhaustion.
They were trembling like leaves when we pushed them
off. Runt Pickett was detailed to look especially
after those two, and the little rascal nursed and
toyed and played with them like a circus rider.
They struggled constantly for the inshore, but Runt
rode their rumps alternately, the displacement lifting
their heads out of the water to good advantage.
When we finally landed, the two big fellows staggered
out of the river and dropped down through sheer weakness,
a thing which I had never seen before except in wild
horses.
A number of the boys were attacked
by chills, and towards evening had to be excused for
fear of cramps. By six o’clock we were
reduced to two squads, with about fifty cattle still
remaining in the river. Forrest and I had quit
the water after the fourth trip; but Quince had a
man named De Manse, a Frenchman, who swam like a wharf-rat
and who stayed to the finish, while I turned my crew
over to Runt Pickett. The latter was raised on
the coast of Texas, and when a mere boy could swim
all day, with or without occasion. Dividing the
remaining beeves as near equally as possible, Runt’s
squad pushed off slightly in advance of De Manse,
the remainder of us riding along the bank with the
horses and clothing, and cheering our respective crews.
The Frenchman was but a moment later in taking the
water, and as pretty and thrilling a race as I ever
witnessed was in progress. The latter practiced
a trick, when catching a favorable current, of dipping
the rump of a steer, thus lifting his fore parts and
rocking him forward like a porpoise. When a beef
dropped to the rear, this process was resorted to,
and De Manse promised to overtake Pickett. From
our position on the bank, we shouted to Runt to dip
his drag cattle in swift water; but amid the din and
splash of the struggling swimmers our messages failed
to reach his ears. De Manse was gaining slowly,
when Pickett’s bunch were driven inshore, a
number of them catching a footing, and before they
could be again pushed off, the Frenchman’s cattle
were at their heels. A number of De Manse’s
men were swimming shoreward of their charges, and
succeeded in holding their beeves off the ledge, which
was the last one before the landing. The remaining
hundred yards was eddy water; and though Pickett fought
hard, swimming among the Frenchman’s lead cattle,
to hold the two bunches separate, they mixed in the
river. As an evidence of victory, however, when
the cattle struck a foothold, Runt and each of his
men mounted a beef and rode out of the water some
distance. As the steers recovered and attempted
to dislodge their riders, they nimbly sprang from
their backs and hustled themselves into their ragged
clothing.
I breathed easier after the last cattle
landed, though Forrest contended there was never any
danger. At least a serious predicament had been
blundered into and handled, as was shown by subsequent
events. At noon that day, rumblings of thunder
were heard in the Black Hills country to the west,
a warning to get across the river as soon as possible.
So the situation at the close of the day was not a
very encouraging one to either Forrest or myself.
The former had his cattle split in two bunches, while
I had my wagon and remuda on the other side of the
river from my herd. But the emergency must be
met. I sent a messenger after our wagon, it was
brought back near the river, and a hasty supper was
ordered. Two of my boys were sent up to the dry
wash to recross the river and drift our cattle down
somewhere near the wagon-crossing, thus separating
the herds for the night. I have never made claim
to being overbright, but that evening I did have sense
or intuition enough to take our saddle horses back
across the river. My few years of trail life
had taught me the importance of keeping in close touch
with our base of subsistence, while the cattle and
the saddle stock for handling them should under no
circumstances ever be separated. Yet under existing
conditions it was impossible to recross our commissary,
and darkness fell upon us encamped on the south side
of the Big Cheyenne.
The night passed with almost constant
thunder and lightning in the west. At daybreak
heavy dark clouds hung low in a semicircle all around
the northwest, threatening falling weather, and hasty
preparations were made to move down the stream in search
of a crossing. In fording the river to breakfast,
my outfit agreed that there had been no perceptible
change in the stage of water overnight, which quickened
our desire to move at once. The two wagons were
camped close together, and as usual Forrest was indifferent
and unconcerned over the threatening weather; he had
left his remuda all night on the north side of the
river, and had actually turned loose the rescued contingent
of cattle. I did not mince my words in giving
Mr. Forrest my programme, when he turned on me, saying:
“Quirk, you have more trouble than a married
woman. What do I care if it is raining in London
or the Black Hills either? Let her rain; our
sugar and salt are both covered, and we can lend you
some if yours gets wet. But you go right ahead
and follow up Sponsilier; he may not find a crossing
this side of the Belle Fourche. I can take spades
and axes, and in two hours’ time cut down and
widen that wagon-way until the herds can cross.
I wouldn’t be as fidgety as you are for a large
farm. You ought to take something for your nerves.”
I had a mental picture of John Quincy
Forrest doing any manual labor with an axe or spade.
During our short acquaintance that had been put to
the test too often to admit of question; but I encouraged
him to fly right at the bank, assuring him that in
case his tools became heated, there was always water
at hand to cool them. The wrangler had rustled
in the wagon-mules for our cook, and Forrest was still
ridiculing my anxiety to move, when a fusillade of
shots was heard across and up the river. Every
man at both wagons was on his feet in an instant,
not one of us even dreaming that the firing of the
boys on herd was a warning, when Quince’s horsewrangler
galloped up and announced a flood-wave coming down
the river. A rush was made for our horses, and
we struck for the ford, dashing through the shallows
and up the farther bank without drawing rein.
With a steady rush, a body of water, less than a mile
distant, greeted our vision, looking like the falls
of some river, rolling forward like an immense cylinder.
We sat our horses in bewilderment of the scene, though
I had often heard Jim Flood describe the sudden rise
of streams which had mountain tributaries. Forrest
and his men crossed behind us, leaving but the cooks
and a horse-wrangler on the farther side. It
was easily to be seen that all the lowlands along
the river would be inundated, so I sent Levering back
with orders to hook up the team and strike for tall
timber. Following suit, Forrest sent two men
to rout the contingent of cattle out of a bend which
was nearly a mile below the wagons. The wave,
apparently ten to twelve feet high, moved forward slowly,
great walls lopping off on the side and flooding out
over the bottoms, while on the farther shore every
cranny and arroyo claimed its fill from the avalanche
of water. The cattle on the south side were safe,
grazing well back on the uplands, so we gave the oncoming
flood our undivided attention. It was traveling
at the rate of eight to ten miles an hour, not at
a steady pace, but sometimes almost halting when the
bottoms absorbed its volume, only to catch its breath
and forge ahead again in angry impetuosity. As
the water passed us on the bluff bank, several waves
broke over and washed around our horses’ feet,
filling the wagon-way, but the main volume rolled
across the narrow valley on the opposite side.
The wagons had pulled out to higher ground, and while
every eye was strained, watching for the rescued beeves
to come out of the bend below, Vick Wolf, who happened
to look upstream, uttered a single shout of warning
and dashed away. Turning in our saddles, we saw
within five hundred feet of us a second wave about
half the height of the first one. Rowels and
quirts were plied with energy and will, as we tore
down the river-bank, making a gradual circle until
the second bottoms were reached, outriding the flood
by a close margin.
The situation was anything but encouraging,
as days might elapse before the water would fall.
But our hopes revived as we saw the contingent of
about six hundred beeves stampede out of a bend below
and across the river, followed by two men who were
energetically burning powder and flaunting slickers
in their rear. Within a quarter of an hour, a
halfmile of roaring, raging torrent, filled with floating
driftwood, separated us from the wagons which contained
the staples of life. But in the midst of the
travail of mountain and plain, the dry humor of the
men was irrepressible, one of Forrest’s own
boys asking him if he felt any uneasiness now about
his salt and sugar.
“Oh, this is nothing,”
replied Quince, with a contemptuous wave of his hand.
“These freshets are liable to happen at any time;
rise in an hour and fall in half a day. Look there
how it is clearing off in the west; the river will
be fordable this evening or in the morning at the
furthest. As long as everything is safe, what
do we care? If it comes to a pinch, we have plenty
of stray beef; berries are ripe, and I reckon if we
cast around we might find some wild onions. I
have lived a whole month at a time on nothing but
land-terrapin; they make larruping fine eating when
you are cut off from camp this way. Blankets?
Never use them; sleep on your belly and cover with
your back, and get up with the birds in the morning.
These Lovell outfits are getting so tony that by another
year or two they’ll insist on bathtubs, Florida
water, and towels with every wagon. I like to
get down to straight beans for a few days every once
in a while; it has a tendency to cure a man with a
whining disposition. The only thing that’s
worrying me, if we get cut off, is the laugh that
Sponsilier will have on us.”
We all knew Forrest was bluffing.
The fact that we were water-bound was too apparent
to admit of question, and since the elements were
beyond our control, there was no telling when relief
would come. Until the weather moderated in the
hills to the west, there was no hope of crossing the
river; but men grew hungry and nights were chilly,
and bluster and bravado brought neither food nor warmth.
A third wave was noticed within an hour, raising the
water-gauge over a foot. The South Fork of the
Big Cheyenne almost encircled the entire Black Hills
country, and with a hundred mountain affluents emptying
in their tribute, the waters commanded and we obeyed.
Ordering my men to kill a beef, I rode down the river
in the hope of finding Sponsilier on our side, and
about noon sighted his camp and cattle on the opposite
bank. A group of men were dallying along the shore,
but being out of hearing, I turned back without exposing
myself.
On my return a general camp had been
established at the nearest wood, and a stray killed.
Stakes were driven to mark the rise or fall of the
water, and we settled down like prisoners, waiting
for an expected reprieve. Towards evening a fire
was built up and the two sides of ribs were spitted
over it, our only chance for supper. Night fell
with no perceptible change in the situation, the weather
remaining dry and clear. Forrest’s outfit
had been furnished horses from my remuda for guard
duty, and about midnight, wrapping ourselves in slickers,
we lay down in a circle with our feet to the fire
like cave-dwellers. The camp-fire was kept up
all night by the returning guards, even until the morning
hours, when we woke up shivering at dawn and hurried
away to note the stage of the water. A four-foot
fall had taken place during the night, another foot
was added within an hour after sun-up, brightening
our hopes, when a tidal wave swept down the valley,
easily establishing a new high-water mark. Then
we breakfasted on broiled beefsteak, and fell back
into the hills in search of the huckleberry, which
abounded in that vicinity.
A second day and night passed, with
the water gradually falling. The third morning
a few of the best swimmers, tiring of the diet of
beef and berries, took advantage of the current and
swam to the other shore. On returning several
hours later, they brought back word that Sponsilier
had been up to the wagons the afternoon before and
reported an easy crossing about five miles below.
By noon the channel had narrowed to one hundred yards
of swimming water, and plunging into it on our horses,
we dined at the wagons and did justice to the spread.
Both outfits were anxious to move, and once dinner
was over, the commissaries were started down the river,
while we turned up it, looking for a chance to swim
back to the cattle. Forrest had secured a fresh
mount of horses, and some distance above the dry wash
we again took to the water, landing on the opposite
side between a quarter and half mile below. Little
time was lost in starting the herds, mine in the lead,
while the wagons got away well in advance, accompanied
by Forrest’s remuda and the isolated contingent
of cattle.
Sponsilier was expecting us, and on
the appearance of our wagons, moved out to a new camp
and gave us a clear crossing. A number of the
boys came down to the river with him, and several of
them swam it, meeting the cattle a mile above and
piloting us into the ford. They had assured me
that there might be seventy-five yards of swimming
water, with a gradual entrance to the channel and a
half-mile of solid footing at the outcome. The
description of the crossing suited me, and putting
our remuda in the lead, we struck the muddy torrent
and crossed it without a halt, the chain of swimming
cattle never breaking for a single moment. Forrest
followed in our wake, the one herd piloting the other,
and within an hour after our arrival at the lower
ford, the drag-end of the “Drooping T”
herd kicked up their heels on the north bank of the
Big Cheyenne. Meanwhile Sponsilier had been quietly
sitting his horse below the main landing, his hat
pulled down over his eye, nursing the humor of the
situation. As Forrest came up out of the water
with the rear guard of his cattle, the opportunity
was too good to be overlooked.
“Hello, Quince,” said
Dave; “how goes it, old sport? Do you keep
stout? I was up at your wagon yesterday to ask
you all down to supper. Yes, we had huckleberry
pie and venison galore, but your men told me that
you had quit eating with the wagon. I was pained
to hear that you and Tom have both gone plum hog-wild,
drinking out of cowtracks and living on wild garlic
and land-terrapin, just like Injuns. Honest,
boys, I hate to see good men go wrong that way.”