In gala spirits we broke camp the
next morning. The herd had left the bed-ground
at dawn, and as the outfit rode away to relieve the
last guard, every mother’s son was singing.
The cattle were a refreshing sight as they grazed
forward, their ragged front covering half a mile in
width. The rest of the past few days had been
a boon to the few tender-footed ones. The lay-over
had rejuvenated both man and beast. From maps
in our possession we knew we were somewhere near the
western border of the Chickasaw Nation, while on our
left was the reservation of three blanket tribes of
Indians. But as far as signs of occupancy were
concerned, the country was unmarked by any evidence
of civilization. The Chisholm Cattle Trail, which
ran from Red River to the Kansas line, had almost
fallen into disuse, owing to encroachments of settlements
south of the former and westward on the latter.
With the advancement of immigration, Abilene and Ellsworth
as trail terminals yielded to the tide, and the leading
cattle trace of the ’70’s was relegated
to local use in ’84.
The first guard was on the qui vive
for the outfit whose camp-fire they had sighted the
night before. I was riding with Clay Zilligan
on the left point, when he sighted what we supposed
was a small bunch of cattle lying down several miles
distant. When we reached the first rise of ground,
a band of saddle horses came in view, and while we
were trying to locate their camp, Jack Splann from
the opposite point attracted our attention and pointed
straight ahead. There a large band of cattle under
herd greeted our view, compelling us to veer to the
right and intersect the trail sooner than we intended.
Keeping a clear half-mile between us, we passed them
within an hour and exchanged the compliments of the
trail. They proved to be “Laurel Leaf”
and “Running W” cattle, the very ones
for which the International Railway agent at the meeting
in February had so boastfully shown my employer the
application for cars. The foreman was cursing
like a stranded pirate over the predicament in which
he found himself. He had left Santo Gertrudo
Ranch over a month before with a herd of three thousand
straight two-year-old steers. But in the shipment
of some thirty-three thousand cattle from the two
ranches to Wichita Falls, six trains had been wrecked,
two of which were his own. Instead of being hundreds
of miles ahead in the lead of the year’s drive,
as he expected, he now found himself in charge of
a camp of cripples. What few trains belonging
to his herd had escaped the ditch were used in filling
up other unfortunate ones, the injured cattle from
the other wrecks forming his present holdings.
“Our people were anxious to
get their cattle on to the market early this year,”
said he, “and put their foot into it up to the
knee. Shipping to Red River was an experiment
with them, and I hope they’ve got their belly
full. We’ve got dead and dying cattle in
every pasture from the falls to the river, while these
in sight aren’t able to keep out of the stench
of those that croaked between here and the ford.
Oh, this shipping is a fine thing—for the
railroads. Here I’ve got to rot all summer
with these cattle, just because two of my trains went
into the ditch while no other foreman had over one
wrecked. And mind you, they paid the freight
in advance, and now King and Kennedy have brought
suit for damages amounting to double the shipping
expense. They’ll get it all right—in
pork. I’d rather have a claim against a
nigger than a railroad company. Look at your
beeves, slick as weasels, and from the Nueces River.
Have to hold them in, I reckon, to keep from making
twenty miles a day. And here I am—Oh,
hell, I’d rather be on a rock-pile with a ball
and chain to my foot! Do you see those objects
across yonder about two miles—in that old
grass? That’s where we bedded night before
last and forty odd died. We only lost twenty-two
last night. Oh, we’re getting in shape
fast. If you think you can hold your breakfast
down, just take a ride through mine. No, excuse
me— I’ve seen them too often already.”
Several of the boys and myself rode
into the herd some little distance, but the sight
was enough to turn a copper-lined stomach. Scarcely
an animal had escaped without more or less injury.
Fully one half were minus one or both horns, leaving
instead bloody stumps. Broken bones and open sores
greeted us on every hand; myriads of flies added to
the misery of the cattle, while in many instances
there was evidence of maggots at work on the living
animal. Turning from the herd in disgust, we went
back to our own, thankful that the rate offered us
had been prohibitory. The trials and vexations
of the road were mere nothings to be endured, compared
to the sights we were then leaving. Even what
we first supposed were cattle lying down, were only
bed-grounds, the occupants having been humanely relieved
by unwaking sleep. Powerless to render any assistance,
we trailed away, glad to blot from our sight and memory
such scenes of misery and death.
Until reaching the Washita River,
we passed through a delightful country. There
were numerous local trails coming into the main one,
all of which showed recent use. Abandoned camp-fires
and bed-grounds were to be seen on every hand, silent
witnesses of an exodus which was to mark the maximum
year in the history of the cattle movement from Texas.
Several times we saw some evidence of settlement by
the natives, but as to the freedom of the country,
we were monarchs of all we surveyed. On arriving
at the Washita, we encountered a number of herds,
laboring under the impression that they were water-bound.
Immediate entrance at the ford was held by a large
herd of young cattle in charge of a negro outfit.
Their stock were scattered over several thousand acres,
and when I asked for the boss, a middle-aged darky
of herculean figure was pointed out as in charge.
To my inquiry why he was holding the ford, his answer
was that until to-day the river had been swimming,
and now he was waiting for the banks to dry.
Ridiculing his flimsy excuse, I kindly yet firmly asked
him either to cross or vacate the ford by three o’clock
that afternoon. Receiving no definite reply,
I returned to our herd, which was some five miles
in the rear. Beyond the river’s steep,
slippery banks and cold water, there was nothing to
check a herd.
After the noonday halt, the wrangler
and myself took our remuda and went on ahead to the
river. Crossing and recrossing our saddle stock
a number of times, we trampled the banks down to a
firm footing. While we were doing this work, the
negro foreman and a number of his men rode up and
sullenly watched us. Leaving our horses on the
north bank, Levering and I returned, and ignoring
the presence of the darky spectators, started back
to meet the herd, which was just then looming up in
sight. But before we had ridden any distance,
the dusky foreman overtook us and politely said, “Look-ee
here, Cap’n; ain’t you-all afraid of losin’
some of your cattle among ours?” Never halting,
I replied, “Not a particle; if we lose any,
you eat them, and we’ll do the same if our herd
absorbs any of yours. But it strikes me that you
had better have those lazy niggers throw your cattle
to one side,” I called back, as he halted his
horse. We did not look backward until we reached
the herd; then as we turned, one on each side to support
the points, it was evident that a clear field would
await us on reaching the river. Every horseman
in the black outfit was pushing cattle with might
and main, to give us a clean cloth at the crossing.
The herd forded the Washita without
incident. I remained on the south bank while
the cattle were crossing, and when they were about
half over some half-dozen of the darkies rode up and
stopped apart, conversing among themselves. When
the drag cattle passed safely out on the farther bank,
I turned to the dusky group, only to find their foreman
absent. Making a few inquiries as to the ownership
of their herd, its destination, and other matters
of interest, I asked the group to express my thanks
to their foreman for moving his cattle aside.
Our commissary crossed shortly afterward, and the
Washita was in our rear. But that night, as some
of my outfit returned from the river, where they had
been fishing, they reported the negro outfit as having
crossed and encamped several miles in our rear.
“All they needed was a good
example,” said Dorg Seay. “Under a
white foreman, I’ll bet that’s a good lot
of darkies. They were just about the right shade—old
shiny black. As good cowhands as ever I saw were
nigs, but they need a white man to blow and brag on
them. But it always ruins one to give him any
authority.”
Without effort we traveled fifteen
miles a day. In the absence of any wet weather
to gall their backs, there was not a horse in our
remuda unfit for the saddle. In fact, after reaching
the Indian Territory, they took on flesh and played
like lambs. With the exception of long hours
and night-herding, the days passed in seeming indolence
as we swept northward, crossing rivers without a halt
which in previous years had defied the moving herds.
On arriving at the Cimarron River, in reply to a letter
written to my employer on leaving Texas behind us,
an answer was found awaiting me at Red Fork.
The latter was an Indian trading-post, located on
the mail route to Fort Reno, and only a few miles
north of the Chisholm Crossing. The letter was
characteristic of my employer. It contained but
one imperative order,—that I should touch,
either with or without the herd, at Camp Supply.
For some unexplained reason he would make that post
his headquarters until after the Buford herds had
passed that point. The letter concluded with
the injunction, in case we met any one, to conceal
the ownership of the herd and its destination.
The mystery was thickening. But
having previously declined to borrow trouble, I brushed
this aside as unimportant, though I gave my outfit
instructions to report the herd to every one as belonging
to Omaha men, and on its way to Nebraska to be corn-fed.
Fortunately I had ridden ahead of the herd after crossing
the Cimarron, and had posted the outfit before they
reached the trading-station. I did not allow one
of my boys near the store, and the herd passed by
as in contempt of such a wayside place. As the
Dodge cut-off left the Chisholm Trail some ten miles
above the Indian trading-post, the next morning we
waved good-bye to the old cattle trace and turned on
a northwest angle. Our route now lay up the Cimarron,
which we crossed and recrossed at our pleasure, for
the sake of grazing or to avoid several large alkali
flats. There was evidence of herds in our advance,
and had we not hurried past Red Fork, I might have
learned something to our advantage. But disdaining
all inquiry of the cut-off, fearful lest our identity
be discovered, we deliberately walked into the first
real danger of the trip.
At low water the Cimarron was a brackish
stream. But numerous tributaries put in from
either side, and by keeping above the river’s
ebb, an abundance of fresh water was daily secured
from the river’s affluents. The fifth day
out from Red Rock was an excessively sultry one, and
suffering would have resulted to the herd had we not
been following a divide where we caught an occasional
breeze. The river lay some ten miles to our right,
while before us a tributary could be distinctly outlined
by the cottonwoods which grew along it. Since
early morning we had been paralleling the creek, having
nooned within sight of its confluence with the mother
stream, and consequently I had considered it unnecessary
to ride ahead and look up the water. When possible,
we always preferred watering the herd between three
and four o’clock in the afternoon. But by
holding our course, we were certain to intersect the
creek at about the usual hour for the cattle’s
daily drink, and besides, as the creek neared the
river, it ran through an alkali flat for some distance.
But before the time arrived to intersect the creek
on our course, the herd turned out of the trail, determined
to go to the creek and quench their thirst. The
entire outfit, however, massed on the right flank,
and against their will we held them on their course.
As their thirst increased with travel, they made repeated
attempts to break through our cordon, requiring every
man to keep on the alert. But we held them true
to the divide, and as we came to the brow of a small
hill within a quarter-mile of the water, a stench
struck us until we turned in our saddles, gasping
for breath. I was riding third man in the swing
from the point, and noticing something wrong in front,
galloped to the brow of the hill. The smell was
sickening and almost unendurable, and there before
us in plain view lay hundreds of dead cattle, bloated
and decaying in the summer sun.
I was dazed by the awful scene.
A pretty, greenswarded little valley lay before me,
groups of cottonwoods fringed the stream here and
there, around the roots of which were both shade and
water. The reeking stench that filled the air
stupefied me for the instant, and I turned my horse
from the view, gasping for a mouthful of God’s
pure ozone. But our beeves had been scenting
the creek for hours, and now a few of the leaders started
forward in a trot for it. Like a flash it came
to me that death lurked in that water, and summoning
every man within hearing, I dashed to the lead of
our cattle to turn them back over the hill. Jack
Splann was on the point, and we turned the leaders
when within two hundred yards of the creek, frequently
jumping our horses over the putrid carcasses of dead
cattle. The main body of the herd were trailing
for three quarters of a mile in our rear, and none
of the men dared leave their places. Untying our
slickers, Splann and I fell upon the leaders and beat
them back to the brow of the hill, when an unfortunate
breeze was wafted through that polluted atmosphere
from the creek to the cattle’s nostrils.
Turning upon us and now augmented to several hundred
head, they sullenly started forward. But in the
few minutes’ interim, two other lads had come
to our support, and dismounting we rushed them, whipping
our slickers into ribbons over their heads. The
mastery of man again triumphed over brutes in their
thirst, for we drove them in a rout back over the
divide.
Our success, however, was only temporary.
Recovering our horses we beat the cattle back, seemingly
inch by inch, until the rear came up, when we rounded
them into a compact body. They quieted down for
a short while, affording us a breathing spell, for
the suddenness of this danger had not only unnerved
me but every one of the outfit who had caught a glimpse
of that field of death. The wagon came up, and
those who needed them secured a change of horses.
Leaving the outfit holding the herd, Splann and I took
fresh mounts, and circling around, came in on the windward
side of the creek. As we crossed it half a mile
above the scene of disaster, each of us dipped a hand
in the water and tasted it. The alkali was strong
as concentrated lye, blistering our mouths in the
experiment. The creek was not even running, but
stood in long, deep pools, clear as crystal and as
inviting to the thirsty as a mountain spring.
As we neared the dead cattle, Splann called my attention
to the attitude of the animals when death relieved
them, the heads of fully two thirds being thrown back
on their sides. Many, when stricken, were unable
to reach the bank, and died in the bed of the stream.
Making a complete circle of the ghastly scene, we
returned to our own, agreeing that between five and
six hundred cattle had met their fate in those death-dealing
pools.
We were not yet out of the woods.
On our return, many of the cattle were lying down,
while in the west thunder-clouds were appearing.
The North Fork of the Canadian lay on our left, which
was now our only hope for water, yet beyond our reach
for the day. Keeping the slight divide between
us and the creek, we started the herd forward.
Since it was impossible to graze them in their thirsty
condition, I was determined to move them as far as
possible before darkness overtook us. But within
an hour we crossed a country trail over which herds
had passed on their way northwest, having left the
Chisholm after crossing the North Fork. At the
first elevation which would give me a view of the
creek, another scene of death and desolation greeted
my vision, only a few miles above the first one.
Yet from this same hill I could easily trace the meanderings
of the creek for miles as it made a half circle in
our front, both inviting and defying us. Turning
the herd due south, we traveled until darkness fell,
going into camp on a high, flat mesa of several thousand
acres. But those evening breezes wafted an invitation
to come and drink, and our thirsty herd refused to
bed down. To add to our predicament, a storm
thickened in the west. Realizing that we were
confronting the most dangerous night in all my cattle
experience, I ordered every man into the saddle.
The remuda and team were taken in charge by the wrangler
and cook, and going from man to man, I warned them
what the consequences would be if we lost the herd
during the night, and the cattle reached the creek.
The cattle surged and drifted almost
at will, for we were compelled to hold them loose
to avoid milling. Before ten o’clock the
lightning was flickering overhead and around us, revealing
acres of big beeves, which in an instant might take
fright, and then, God help us. But in that night
of trial a mercy was extended to the dumb brutes in
charge. A warm rain began falling, first in a
drizzle, increasing after the first hour, and by midnight
we could hear the water slushing under our horses’
feet. By the almost constant flashes of lightning
we could see the cattle standing as if asleep, in
grateful enjoyment of the sheeting downpour.
As the night wore on, our fears of a stampede abated,
for the buffalo wallows on the mesa filled, and water
was on every hand. The rain ceased before dawn,
but owing to the saturated condition underfoot, not
a hoof lay down during the night, and when the gray
of morning streaked the east, what a sense of relief
it brought us. The danger had passed.
Near noon that day, and within a few
miles of the North Fork, we rounded an alkaline plain
in which this deadly creek had its source. Under
the influence of the season, alkali had oozed up out
of the soil until it looked like an immense lake under
snow. The presence of range cattle in close proximity
to this creek, for we were in the Cherokee Strip,
baffled my reasoning; but the next day we met a range-rider
who explained that the present condition of the stream
was unheard of before, and that native cattle had
instinct enough to avoid it. He accounted for
its condition as due to the dry season, there being
no general rains sufficient to flood the alkaline
plain and thoroughly flush the creek. In reply
to an inquiry as to the ownership of the unfortunate
herds, he informed me that there were three, one belonging
to Bob Houston, another to Major Corouthers, and the
third to a man named Murphy, the total loss amounting
to about two thousand cattle.
From this same range-man we also learned
our location. Camp Supply lay up the North Fork
some sixty miles, while a plain trail followed up
the first bottom of the river. Wishing to avoid,
if possible, intersecting the western trail south of
Dodge, the next morning I left the herd to follow up,
and rode into Camp Supply before noon. Lovell
had sighted me a mile distant, and after a drink at
the sutler’s bar, we strolled aside for a few
minutes’ chat. Once I had informed him of
the locality of the herd and their condition, he cautioned
me not to let my business be known while in the post.
After refreshing the inner man, my employer secured
a horse and started with me on my return. As
soon as the flag over Supply faded out of sight in
our rear, we turned to the friendly shade of the timber
on the North Fork and dismounted. I felt that
the precaution exercised by the drover was premonitory
of some revelation, and before we arose from the cottonwood
log on which we took seats, the scales had fallen
from my eyes and the atmosphere of mystery cleared.
“Tom,” said my employer,
“I am up against a bad proposition. I am
driving these Buford cattle, you understand, on a sub-contract.
I was the second lowest bidder with the government,
and no sooner was the award made to The Western Supply
Company than they sent an agent who gave me no peace
until they sublet their contract. Unfortunately
for me, when the papers were drawn, my regular attorney
was out of town, and I was compelled to depend on a
stranger. After the articles were executed, I
submitted the matter to my old lawyer; he shook his
head, arguing that a loophole had been left open,
and that I should have secured an assignment of the
original contract. After studying the matter
over, we opened negotiations to secure a complete relinquishment
of the award. But when I offered the company a
thousand dollars over and above what they admitted
was their margin, and they refused it, I opened my
eyes to the true situation. If cattle went up,
I was responsible and would have to fill my contract;
if they went down, the company would buy in the cattle
and I could go to hell in a hand-basket for all they
cared. Their bond to the government does me no
good, and beyond that they are irresponsible.
Beeves have broken from four to five dollars a head,
and unless I can deliver these Buford herds on my contract,
they will lose me fifty thousand dollars.”
“Have you any intimation that
they expect to buy in other cattle?” I inquired.
“Yes. I have had a detective
in my employ ever since my suspicions were aroused.
There are two parties in Dodge this very minute with
the original contract, properly assigned, and they
are looking for cattle to fill it. That’s
why I’m stopping here and lying low. I
couldn’t explain it to you sooner, but you understand
now why I drove those Buford herds in different road
brands. Tom, we’re up against it, and we’ve
got to fight the devil with fire. Henceforth
your name will be Tom McIndoo, your herd will be the
property of the Marshall estate, and their agent,
my detective, will be known as Charles Siringo.
Any money or supplies you may need in Dodge, get in
the usual form through the firm of Wright, Beverly
& Co.—they understand. Hold your herd
out south on Mulberry, and Siringo will have notice
and be looking for you, or you can find him at the
Dodge House. I’ve sent a courier to Fort
Elliott to meet Dave and Quince, and once I see them,
I’ll run up to Ogalalla and wait for you.
Now, until further orders, remember you never knew
a man by the name of Don Lovell, and by all means
don’t forget to use what wits Nature gave you.”