THE ROCK
Early on a summer morning, about the
beginning of the nineteenth century, two fishermen
of Forfarshire wended their way to the shore, launched
their boat, and put off to sea.
One of the men was tall and ill-favoured,
the other, short and well-favoured. Both were
square-built, powerful fellows, like most men of the
class to which they belonged.
It was about that calm hour of the
morning which precedes sunrise, when most living creatures
are still asleep, and inanimate nature wears, more
than at other times, the semblance of repose.
The sea was like a sheet of undulating glass.
A breeze had been expected, but, in defiance of expectation,
it had not come, so the boatmen were obliged to use
their oars. They used them well, however, insomuch
that the land ere long appeared like a blue line on
the horizon, then became tremulous and indistinct,
and finally vanished in the mists of morning.
The men pulled “with a will,”—as
seamen pithily express in silence. Only once
during the first hour did the ill-favoured man venture
a remark. Referring to the absence of wind, he
said, that “it would be a’ the better
for landin’ on the rock.”
This was said in the broadest vernacular
dialect, as, indeed, was everything that dropped from
the fishermen’s lips. We take the liberty
of modifying it a little, believing that strict fidelity
here would entail inevitable loss of sense to many
of our readers.
The remark, such as it was, called
forth a rejoinder from the short comrade, who stated
his belief that “they would be likely to find
somethin’ there that day.”
They then relapsed into silence.
Under the regular stroke of the oars
the boat advanced steadily, straight out to sea.
At first the mirror over which they skimmed was grey,
and the foam at the cutwater leaden-coloured.
By degrees they rowed, as it were, into a brighter
region. The sea ahead lightened up, became pale
yellow, then warmed into saffron, and, when the sun
rose, blazed into liquid gold.
The words spoken by the boatmen, though
few, were significant. The “rock”
alluded to was the celebrated and much dreaded Inch
Cape—more familiarly known as the Bell
Rock—which being at that time unmarked
by lighthouse or beacon of any kind, was the terror
of mariners who were making for the firths of Forth
and Tay. The “something” that was
expected to be found there may be guessed at, when
we say that one of the fiercest storms that ever swept
our eastern shores had just exhausted itself after
strewing the coast with wrecks. The breast of
ocean, though calm on the surface, as has been said,
was still heaving with a mighty swell, from the effects
of the recent elemental conflict.
“D’ye see the breakers
noo, Davy?” enquired the ill-favoured man, who
pulled the aft oar.
“Ay, and hear them, too,”
said Davy Spink, ceasing to row, and looking over
his shoulder towards the seaward horizon.
“Yer een and lugs are better
than mine, then,” returned the ill-favoured
comrade, who answered, when among his friends, to the
name of Big Swankie, otherwise, and more correctly,
Jock Swankie. “Od! I believe ye’re
right,” he added, shading his heavy red brows
with his heavier and redder hand, “that is
the rock, but a man wad need the een o’ an eagle
to see onything in the face o’ sik a bleezin’
sun. Pull awa’, Davy, we’ll hae time
to catch a bit cod or a haddy afore the rock’s
bare.”
Influenced by these encouraging hopes,
the stout pair urged their boat in the direction of
a thin line of snow-white foam that lay apparently
many miles away, but which was in reality not very
far distant.
By degrees the white line expanded
in size and became massive, as though a huge breaker
were rolling towards them; ever and anon jets of foam
flew high into the air from various parts of the mass,
like smoke from a cannon’s mouth. Presently,
a low continuous roar became audible above the noise
of the oars; as the boat advanced, the swells from
the southeast could be seen towering upwards as they
neared the foaming spot, gradually changing their
broad-backed form, and coming on in majestic walls
of green water, which fell with indescribable grandeur
into the seething caldron. No rocks were visible,
there was no apparent cause for this wild confusion
in the midst of the otherwise calm sea. But the
fishermen knew that the Bell Rock was underneath the
foam, and that in less than an hour its jagged peaks
would be left uncovered by the falling tide.
As the swell of the sea came in from
the eastward, there was a belt of smooth water on
the west side of the rock. Here the fishermen
cast anchor, and, baiting their hand-lines, began to
fish. At first they were unsuccessful, but before
half an hour had elapsed, the cod began to nibble,
and Big Swankie ere long hauled up a fish of goodly
size. Davy Spink followed suit, and in a few minutes
a dozen fish lay spluttering in the bottom of the
boat.
“Time’s up noo,” said Swankie, coiling
away his line.
“Stop, stop, here’s a
wallupper,” cried Davy, who was an excitable
man; “we better fish a while langer—bring
the cleek, Swankie, he’s ower big to—noo,
lad, cleek him! that’s it
”
The prolonged groan with which Davy
brought his speech to a sudden termination was in
consequence of the line breaking and the fish escaping,
just as Swankie was about to strike the iron hook into
its side.
“Hech! lad, that was a guid
ane,” said the disappointed man with a sigh;
“but he’s awa’.”
“Ay,” observed Swankie,
“and we must awa’ too, so up anchor, lad.
The rock’s lookin’ oot o’ the sea,
and time’s precious.”
The anchor was speedily pulled up,
and they rowed towards the rock, the ragged edges
of which were now visible at intervals in the midst
of the foam which they created.
At low tide an irregular portion of
the Bell Rock, less than a hundred yards in length,
and fifty yards in breadth, is uncovered and left
exposed for two or three hours. It does not appear
in the form of a single mass or islet, but in a succession
of serrated ledges of various heights, between and
amongst which the sea flows until the tide has fallen
pretty low. At full ebb the rock appears like
a dark islet, covered with seaweed, and studded with
deep pools of water, most of which are connected with
the sea by narrow channels running between the ledges.
The highest part of the rock does not rise more than
seven feet above the level of the sea at the lowest
tide.
To enter one of the pools by means
of the channels above referred to is generally a matter
of difficulty, and often of extreme danger, as the
swell of the sea, even in calm weather, bursts over
these ledges with such violence as to render the channels
at times impassable. The utmost caution, therefore,
is necessary.
Our fishermen, however, were accustomed
to land there occasionally in search of the remains
of wrecks, and knew their work well. They approached
the rock on the lee side, which was, as has been said,
to the westward. To a spectator viewing them
from any point but from the boat itself, it would
have appeared that the reckless men were sailing into
the jaws of certain death, for the breakers burst around
them so confusedly in all directions that their instant
destruction seemed inevitable. But Davy Spink,
looking over his shoulder as he sat at the bow-oar,
saw a narrow lead of comparatively still water in
the midst of the foam, along which he guided the boat
with consummate skill, giving only a word or two of
direction to Swankie, who instantly acted in accordance
therewith.
“Pull, pull, lad,” said Davy.
Swankie pulled, and the boat swept
round with its bow to the east just in time to meet
a billow, which, towering high above its fellows,
burst completely over the rocks, and appeared to be
about to sweep away all before it. For a moment
the boat was as if embedded in snow, then it sank
once more into the lead among the floating tangle,
and the men pulled with might and main in order to
escape the next wave. They were just in time.
It burst over the same rocks with greater violence
than its predecessor, but the boat had gained the
shelter of the next ledge, and lay floating securely
in the deep, quiet pool within, while the men rested
on their oars, and watched the chaos of the water
rush harmlessly by.
In another moment they had landed
and secured the boat to a projecting rock.
Few words of conversation passed between
these practical men. They had gone there on particular
business. Time and tide proverbially wait for
no man, but at the Bell Rock they wait a much briefer
period than elsewhere. Between low water and
the time when it would be impossible to quit the rock
without being capsized’, there was only a space
of two or three hours—sometimes more, frequently
less—so it behoved the men to economize
time.
Rocks covered with wet seaweed and
rugged in form are not easy to walk over; a fact which
was soon proved by Swankie staggering violently once
or twice, and by Spink falling flat on his back.
Neither paid attention to his comrade’s misfortunes
in this way. Each scrambled about actively, searching
with care among the crevices of the rocks, and from
time to time picking up articles which they thrust
into their pockets or laid on their shoulders, according
as weight and dimensions required.
In a short time they returned to their
boat pretty well laden.
“Weel, lad, what luck?”
enquired Spink, as Swankie and he met—the
former with a grappling iron on his shoulder, the latter
staggering under the weight of a mass of metal.
“Not much,” replied Swankie;
“nothin’ but heavy metal this mornin’,
only a bit of a cookin’ stove an’ a cannon
shot—that’s all.”
“Never mind, try again.
There must ha’ bin two or three wrecks on the
rock this gale,” said Davy, as he and his friend
threw their burdens into the boat, and hastened to
resume the search.
At first Spink was the more successful
of the two. He returned to the boat with various
articles more than once, while his comrade continued
his rambles unsuccessfully. At last, however,
Big Swankie came to a gully or inlet where a large
mass of the débris of a wreck was piled up
in indescribable confusion, in the midst of which
lay the dead body of an old man. Swankie’s
first impulse was to shout to his companion, but he
checked himself, and proceeded to examine the pockets
of the dead man.
Raising the corpse with some difficulty
he placed it on the ledge of rock. Observing
a ring on the little finger of the right hand, he
removed it and put it hastily in his pocket. Then
he drew a red morocco case from an inner breast pocket
in the dead man’s coat. To his surprise
and delight he found that it contained a gold watch
and several gold rings and brooches, in some of which
were beautiful stones. Swankie was no judge of
jewellery, but he could not avoid the conviction that
these things must needs be valuable. He laid the
case down on the rock beside him, and eagerly searched
the other pockets. In one he found a large clasp-knife
and a pencil-case; in another a leather purse, which
felt heavy as he drew it out. His eyes sparkled
at the first glance he got of the contents, for they
were sovereigns! Just as he made this discovery,
Davy Spink climbed over the ledge at his back, and
Swankie hastily thrust the purse underneath the body
of the dead man.
“Hallo! lad, what have ye there?
Hey! watches and rings—come, we’re
in luck this mornin’.”
“We!” exclaimed
Swankie, somewhat sternly, “you didn’t
find that case.”
“Na, lad, but we’ve aye
divided, an’ I dinna see what for we should
change our plan noo.”
“We’ve nae paction to
that effec’—the case o’ kickshaws
is mine,” retorted Swankie.
“Half o’t,” suggested Spink.
“Weel, weel,” cried the
other with affected carelessness, “I’d
scorn to be sae graspin’. For the matter
o’ that ye may hae it all to yersel’,
but I’ll hae the next thing we git that’s
worth muckle a’ to mysel’.”
So saying Swankie stooped to continue
his search of the body, and in a moment or two drew
out the purse with an exclamation of surprise.
“See, I’m in luck, Davy!
Virtue’s aye rewarded, they say. This is
mine, and I doot not there’ll be some siller
intilt.”
“Goold!” cried Davy, with
dilated eyes, as his comrade emptied the contents
into his large hand, and counted over thirty sovereigns.
“Ay, lad, ye can keep the what-d’ye-ca’-ums,
and I’ll keep the siller.”
“I’ve seen that face before,”
observed Spink, looking intently at the body.
“Like enough,” said Swankie,
with an air of indifference, as he put the gold into
his pocket. “I think I’ve seed it
mysel’. It looks like auld Jamie Brand,
but I didna ken him weel.”
“It’s just him,”
said Spink, with a touch of sadness. “Ay,
ay, that’ll fa’ heavy on the auld woman.
But, come, it’ll no’ do to stand haverin’
this way. Let’s see what else is on him.”
They found nothing more of any value;
but a piece of paper was discovered, wrapped up in
oilskin, and carefully fastened with red tape, in
the vest pocket of the dead man. It contained
writing, and had been so securely wrapped up, that
it was only a little damped. Davy Spink, who
found it, tried in vain to read the writing; Davy’s
education had been neglected, so he was fain to confess
that he could not make it out.
“Let me see’t,”
said Swankie. “What hae we here? ’The
sloop is hard an—an—’”
(”‘fast,’ maybe,” suggested Spink).
“Ay, so ’tis. I canna make out the
next word, but here’s something about the jewel-case.”
The man paused and gazed earnestly
at the paper for a few minutes, with a look of perplexity
on his rugged visage.
“Weel, man, what is’t?” enquired
Davy.
“Hoot! I canna mak’
it oot,” said the other, testily, as if annoyed
at being unable to read it. He refolded the paper,
and thrust it into his bosom, saying, “Come,
we’re wastin’ time. Let’s get
on wi’ our wark.”
“Toss for the jewels and the
siller,” said Spink, suggestively.
“Very weel,” replied the
other, producing a copper. “Heeds, you win
the siller; tails, I win the box;—heeds
it is, so the kickshaws is mine. Weel, I’m
content,” he added, as he handed the bag of gold
to his comrade, and received the jewel-case in exchange.
In another hour the sea began to encroach
on the rock, and the fishermen, having collected as
much as time would permit of the wrecked materials,
returned to their boat.
They had secured altogether above
two hundredweight of old metal,—namely,
a large piece of a ship’s caboose, a hinge, a
lock of a door, a ship’s marking-iron, a soldier’s
bayonet, a cannon ball, a shoebuckle, and a small
anchor, besides part of the cordage of the wreck,
and the money and jewels before mentioned. Placing
the heavier of these things in the bottom of the boat,
they pushed off.
“We better take the corp ashore,”
said Spink, suddenly.
“What for? They may ask
what was in the pockets,” objected Swankie.
“Let them ask,” rejoined the other, with
a grin.
Swankie made no reply, but gave a
stroke with his oar which sent the boat close up to
the rocks. They both re-landed in silence, and,
lifting the dead body of the old man, laid it in the
stern sheets of the boat. Once more they pushed
off.
Too much delay had been already made.
The surf was breaking over the ledges in all directions,
and it was with the utmost difficulty that they succeeded
in getting clear out into deep water. A breeze
which had sprung up from the east, tended to raise
the sea a little, but when they finally got away from
the dangerous reef, the breeze befriended them.
Hoisting the foresail, they quickly left the Bell
Rock far behind them, and, in the course of a couple
of hours, sailed into the harbour of Arbroath.