DEPARTING
Paris
The tourniquet Saint-Jean, the narrow
passage entered through a turnstile, a description
of which was said to be so wearisome in the study
entitled “A Double Life” (Scenes from Private
Life), that naive relic of old Paris, has at the present
moment no existence except in our said typography.
The building of the Hotel-de-Ville, such as we now
see it, swept away a whole section of the city.
In 1830, passers along the street
could still see the turnstile painted on the sign
of a wine-merchant, but even that house, its last
asylum, has been demolished. Alas! old Paris is
disappearing with frightful rapidity. Here and
there, in the course of this history of Parisian life,
will be found preserved, sometimes the type of the
dwellings of the middle ages, like that described in
“Fame and Sorrow” (Scenes from Private
Life), one or two specimens of which exist to the
present day; sometimes a house like that of Judge Popinot,
rue du Fouarre, a specimen of the former bourgeoisie;
here, the remains of Fulbert’s house; there,
the old dock of the Seine as it was under Charles
IX. Why should not the historian of French society,
a new Old Mortality, endeavor to save these curious
expressions of the past, as Walter Scott’s old
man rubbed up the tombstones? Certainly, for the
last ten years the outcries of literature in this direction
have not been superfluous; art is beginning to disguise
beneath its floriated ornaments those ignoble facades
of what are called in Paris “houses of product,”
which one of our poets has jocosely compared to chests
of drawers.
Let us remark here, that the creation
of the municipal commission “del ornamento”
which superintends at Milan the architecture of street
facades, and to which every house owner is compelled
to subject his plan, dates from the seventeenth century.
Consequently, we see in that charming capital the
effects of this public spirit on the part of nobles
and burghers, while we admire their buildings so full
of character and originality. Hideous, unrestrained
speculation which, year after year, changes the uniform
level of storeys, compresses a whole apartment into
the space of what used to be a salon, and wages war
upon gardens, will infallibly react on Parisian manners
and morals. We shall soon be forced to live more
without than within. Our sacred private life,
the freedom and liberty of home, where will they be?—reserved
for those who can muster fifty thousand francs a year!
In fact, few millionaires now allow themselves the
luxury of a house to themselves, guarded by a courtyard
on a street and protected from public curiosity by
a shady garden at the back.
By levelling fortunes, that section
of the Code which regulates testamentary bequests,
has produced these huge stone phalansteries, in which
thirty families are often lodged, returning a rental
of a hundred thousand francs a year. Fifty years
hence we shall be able to count on our fingers the
few remaining houses which resemble that occupied,
at the moment our narrative begins, by the Thuillier
family, —a really curious house which deserves
the honor of an exact description, if only to compare
the life of the bourgeoisie of former times with that
of to-day.
The situation and the aspect of this
house, the frame of our present Scene of manners and
morals, has, moreover, a flavor, a perfume of the
lesser bourgeoisie, which may attract or repel attention
according to the taste of each reader.
In the first place, the Thuillier
house did not belong to either Monsieur or Madame
Thuillier, but to Mademoiselle Thuillier, the sister
of Monsieur Thuillier.
This house, bought during the first
six months which followed the revolution of July by
Mademoiselle Marie-Jeanne-Brigitte Thuillier, a spinster
of full age, stands about the middle of the rue Saint-Dominique
d’Enfer, to the right as you enter by the rue
d’Enfer, so that the main building occupied
by Monsieur Thuillier faces south.
The progressive movement which is
carrying the Parisian population to the heights along
the right bank of the Seine had long injured the sale
of property in what is called the “Latin quarter,”
when reasons, which will be given when we come to
treat of the character and habits of Monsieur Thuillier,
determined his sister to the purchase of real estate.
She obtained this property for the small sum of forty-six
thousand francs; certain extras amounted to six thousand
more; in all, the price paid was fifty-two thousand
francs. A description of the property given in
the style of an advertisement, and the results obtained
by Monsieur Thuillier’s exertions, will explain
by what means so many fortunes increased enormously
after July, 1830, while so many others sank.
Toward the street the house presents
a facade of rough stone covered with plaster, cracked
by weather and lined by the mason’s instrument
into a semblance of blocks of cut stone. This
frontage is so common in Paris and so ugly that the
city ought to offer premiums to house-owners who would
build their facades of cut-stone blocks. Seven
windows lighted the gray front of this house which
was raised three storeys, ending in a mansard roof
covered with slate. The porte-cochere, heavy
and solid, showed by its workmanship and style that
the front building on the street had been erected in
the days of the Empire, to utilize a part of the courtyard
of the vast old mansion, built at an epoch when the
quarter d’Enfer enjoyed a certain vogue.
On one side was the porter’s
lodge; on the other the staircase of the front building.
Two wings, built against the adjoining houses, had
formerly served as stables, coach-house, kitchen and
offices to the rear dwelling; but since 1830, they
had been converted into warerooms. The one on
the right was let to a certain M. Metivier, jr., wholesale
dealer in paper; that on the left to a bookseller named
Barbet. The offices of each were above the warerooms;
the bookseller occupying the first storey, and the
paper-dealer the second storey of the house on the
street. Metivier, jr., who was more of a commission
merchant in paper than a regular dealer, and Barbet,
much more of a money lender and discounter than a
bookseller, kept these vast warerooms for the purpose
of storing,—one, his stacks of paper, bought
of needy manufacturers, the other, editions of books
given as security for loans.
The shark of bookselling and the pike
of paper-dealing lived on the best of terms, and their
mutual operations, exempt from the turmoil of retail
business, brought so few carriages into that tranquil
courtyard that the concierge was obliged to pull up
the grass between the paving stones. Messrs.
Barbet and Metivier paid a few rare visits to their
landlords, and the punctuality with which they paid
their rent classed them as good tenants; in fact,
they were looked upon as very honest men by the Thuillier
circle.
As for the third floor on the street,
it was made into two apartments; one of which was
occupied by M. Dutocq, clerk of the justice of peace,
a retired government employee, and a frequenter of
the Thuillier salon; the other by the hero of this
Scene, about whom we must content ourselves at the
present moment by fixing the amount of his rent, —namely,
seven hundred francs a year,—and the location
he had chosen in the heart of this well-filled building,
exactly three years before the curtain rises on the
present domestic drama.
The clerk, a bachelor of fifty, occupied
the larger of the two apartments on the third floor.
He kept a cook, and the rent of the rooms was a thousand
francs a year. Within two years of the time of
her purchase, Mademoiselle Thuillier was receiving
seven thousand two hundred francs in rentals, for
a house which the late proprietor had supplied with
outside blinds, renovated within, and adorned with
mirrors, without being able to sell or let it.
Moreover, the Thuilliers themselves, nobly lodged,
as we shall see, enjoyed also a fine garden,—one
of the finest in that quarter,—the trees
of which shaded the lonely little street named the
rue Neuve-Saint-Catherine.
Standing between the courtyard and
the garden, the main building, which they inhabited,
seems to have been the caprice of some enriched bourgeois
in the reign of Louis XIV.; the dwelling, perhaps,
of a president of the parliament, or that of a tranquil
savant. Its noble free-stone blocks, damaged
by time, have a certain air of Louis-the-Fourteenth
grandeur; the courses of the facade define the storeys;
panels of red brick recall the appearance of the stables
at Versailles; the windows have masks carved as ornaments
in the centre of their arches and below their sills.
The door, of small panels in the upper half and plain
below, through which, when open, the garden can be
seen, is of that honest, unassuming style which was
often employed in former days for the porter’s
lodges of the royal chateaux.
This building, with five windows to
each course, rises two storeys above the ground-floor,
and is particularly noticeable for a roof of four
sides ending in a weather-vane, and broken here and
there by tall, handsome chimneys, and oval windows.
Perhaps this structure is the remains of some great
mansion; but after examining all the existing old
maps of Paris, we find nothing which bears out this
conjecture. Moreover, the title-deeds of property
under Louis XIV. was Petitot, the celebrated painter
in miniature, who obtained it originally from President
Lecamus. We may therefore believe that Lecamus
lived in this building while he was erecting his more
famous mansion in the rue de Thorigny.
So Art and the legal robe have passed
this way in turn. How many instigations of needs
and pleasures have led to the interior arrangement
of the dwelling! To right, as we enter a square
hall forming a closed vestibule, rises a stone staircase
with two windows looking on the garden. Beneath
the staircase opens a door to the cellar. From
this vestibule we enter the dining-room, lighted from
the courtyard, and the dining-room communicates at
its side with the kitchen, which forms a continuation
of the wing in which are the warerooms of Metivier
and Barbet. Behind the staircase extends, on the
garden side, a fine study or office with two large
windows. The first and second floor form two
complete apartments, and the servants’ quarters
are shown by the oval windows in the four-sided roof.
A large porcelain stove heats the
square vestibule, the two glass doors of which, placed
opposite to each other, light it. This room,
paved in black and white marble, is especially noticeable
for a ceiling of beams formerly painted and gilt,
but which had since received, probably under the Empire,
a coat of plain white paint. The three doors
of the study, salon and dining-room, surmounted by
oval panels, are awaiting a restoration that is more
than needed. The wood-work is heavy, but the
ornamentation is not without merit. The salon,
panelled throughout, recalls the great century by its
tall mantelpiece of Languedoc marble, its ceiling
decorated at the corners, and by the style of its
windows, which still retain their little panes.
The dining-room, communicating with the salon by a
double door, is floored with stone; the wood-work
is oak, unpainted, and an atrocious modern wall-paper
has been substituted for the tapestries of the olden
time. The ceiling is of chestnut; and the study,
modernized by Thuillier, adds its quota to these discordances.
The white and gold mouldings of the
salon are so effaced that nothing remains of the gilding
but reddish lines, while the white enamelling is yellow,
cracked, and peeling off. Never did the Latin
saying “Otium cum dignitate” have a greater
commentary to the mind of a poet than in this noble
building. The iron-work of the staircase baluster
is worthy of the artist and the magistrate; but to
find other traces of their taste to-day in this majestic
relic, the eyes of an artistic observer are needed.
The Thuilliers and their predecessors
have frequently degraded this jewel of the upper bourgeoisie
by the habits and inventions of the lesser bourgeoisie.
Look at those walnut chairs covered with horse-hair,
that mahogany table with its oilcloth cover, that
sideboard, also of mahogany, that carpet, bought at
a bargain, beneath the table, those metal lamps, that
wretched paper with its red border, those execrable
engravings, and the calico curtains with red fringes,
in a dining-room, where the friends of Petitot once
feasted! Do you notice the effect produced in
the salon by those portraits of Monsieur and Madame
and Mademoiselle Thuillier by Pierre Grassou, the artist
par excellence of the modern bourgeoisie. Have
you remarked the card-tables and the consoles of the
Empire, the tea-table supported by a lyre, and that
species of sofa, of gnarled mahogany, covered in painted
velvet of a chocolate tone? On the chimney-piece,
with the clock (representing the Bellona of the Empire),
are candelabra with fluted columns. Curtains
of woollen damask, with under-curtains of embroidered
muslin held back by stamped brass holders, drape the
windows. On the floor a cheap carpet. The
handsome vestibule has wooden benches, covered with
velvet, and the panelled walls with their fine carvings
are mostly hidden by wardrobes, brought there from
time to time from the bedrooms occupied by the Thuilliers.
Fear, that hideous divinity, has caused the family
to add sheet-iron doors on the garden side and on
the courtyard side, which are folded back against
the walls in the daytime, and are closed at night.
It is easy to explain the deplorable
profanation practised on this monument of the private
life of the bourgeoisie of the seventeenth century,
by the private life of the bourgeoisie of the nineteenth.
At the beginning of the Consulate, let us say, some
master-mason having bought the ancient building, took
the idea of turning to account the ground which lay
between it and the street. He probably pulled
down the fine porte-cochere or entrance gate, flanked
by little lodges which guarded the charming “sejour”
(to use a word of the olden time), and proceeded,
with the industry of a Parisian proprietor, to impress
his withering mark on the elegance of the old building.
What a curious study might be made of the successive
title-deeds of property in Paris! A private lunatic
asylum performs its functions in the rue des Batailles
in the former dwelling of the Chevalier Pierre Bayard
du Terrail, once without fear and without reproach;
a street has now been built by the present bourgeois
administration through the site of the hotel Necker.
Old Paris is departing, following its kings who abandoned
it. For one masterpiece of architecture saved
from destruction by a Polish princess (the hotel Lambert,
Ile Saint-Louis, bought and occupied by the Princess
Czartoriska) how many little palaces have fallen,
like this dwelling of Petitot, into the hands of such
as Thuillier.
Here follows the causes which made
Mademoiselle Thuillier the owner of the house.