The Land of Little Rain

There are still some places in the west where the quails cry “cuidado”; where all the speech is soft, all the manners gentle; where all the dishes have chile in them, and they make more of the Sixteenth of September than they do of the Fourth of July.  I mean in particular El Pueblo de Las Uvas.  Where it lies, how to come at it, you will not get from me; rather would I show you the heron’s nest in the tulares.  It has a peak behind it, glinting above the tamarack pines, above a breaker of ruddy hills that have a long slope valley-wards and the shoreward steep of waves toward the Sierras.

Below the Town of the Grape Vines, which shortens to Las Uvas for common use, the land dips away to the river pastures and the tulares.  It shrouds under a twilight thicket of vines, under a dome of cottonwood-trees, drowsy and murmurous as a hive.  Hereabouts are some strips of tillage and the headgates that dam up the creek for the village weirs; upstream you catch the growl of the arrastra.  Wild vines that begin among the willows lap over to the orchard rows, take the trellis and roof-tree.

There is another town above Las Uvas that merits some attention, a town of arches and airy crofts, full of linnets, blackbirds, fruit birds, small sharp hawks, and mockingbirds that sing by night.  They pour out piercing, unendurably sweet cavatinas above the fragrance of bloom and musky smell of fruit.  Singing is in fact the business of the night at Las Uvas as sleeping is for midday.  When the moon comes over the mountain wall new-washed from the sea, and the shadows lie like lace on the stamped floors of the patios, from recess to recess of the vine tangle runs the thrum of guitars and the voice of singing.

At Las Uvas they keep up all the good customs brought out of Old Mexico or bred in a lotus-eating land; drink, and are merry and look out for something to eat afterward; have children, nine or ten to a family, have cock-fights, keep the siesta, smoke cigarettes and wait for the sun to go down.  And always they dance; at dusk on the smooth adobe floors, afternoons under the trellises where the earth is damp and has a fruity smell.  A betrothal, a wedding, or a christening, or the mere proximity of a guitar is sufficient occasion; and if the occasion lacks, send for the guitar and dance anyway.

All this requires explanation.  Antonio Sevadra, drifting this way from Old Mexico with the flood that poured into the Tappan district after the first notable strike, discovered La Golondrina.  It was a generous lode and Tony a good fellow; to work it he brought in all the Sevadras, even to the twice-removed; all the Castros who were his wife’s family, all the Saises, Romeros, and Eschobars,—­the relations of his relations-in-law.  There you have the beginning of a pretty considerable town.  To these accrued much of the Spanish California float swept out of the southwest by eastern enterprise.  They slacked away again when the price of silver went down, and the ore dwindled in La Golondrina.  All the hot eddy of mining life swept away from that corner of the hills, but there were always those too idle, too poor to move, or too easily content with El Pueblo de Las Uvas.

Nobody comes nowadays to the town of the grape vines except, as we say, “with the breath of crying,” but of these enough.  All the low sills run over with small heads.  Ah, ah!  There is a kind of pride in that if you did but know it, to have your baby every year or so as the time sets, and keep a full breast.  So great a blessing as marriage is easily come by.  It is told of Ruy Garcia that when he went for his marriage license he lacked a dollar of the clerk’s fee, but borrowed it of the sheriff, who expected reelection and exhibited thereby a commendable thrift.

Of what account is it to lack meal or meat when you may have it of any neighbor?

Besides, there is sometimes a point of honor in these things.  Jesus Romero, father of ten, had a job sacking ore in the Marionette which he gave up of his own accord.  “Eh, why?” said Jesus, “for my fam’ly.”

“It is so, señora,” he said solemnly, “I go to the Marionette, I work, I eat meat—­pie—­frijoles—­good, ver’ good.  I come home sad’day nigh’ I see my fam’ly.  I play lil’ game poker with the boys, have lil’ drink wine, my money all gone.  My family have no money, nothing eat.  All time I work at mine I eat, good, ver’ good grub.  I think sorry for my fam’ly.  No, no, señora, I no work no more that Marionette, I stay with my fam’ly.”  The wonder of it is, I think, that the family had the same point of view.

Every house in the town of the vines has its garden plot, corn and brown beans and a row of peppers reddening in the sun; and in damp borders of the irrigating ditches clumps of yerba santa, horehound, catnip, and spikenard, wholesome herbs and curative, but if no peppers then nothing at all.  You will have for a holiday dinner, in Las Uvas, soup with meat balls and chile in it, chicken with chile, rice with chile, fried beans with more chile, enchilada, which is corn cake with a sauce of chile and tomatoes, onion, grated cheese, and olives, and for a relish chile tepines passed about in a dish, all of which is comfortable and corrective to the stomach.  You will have wine which every man makes for himself, of good body and inimitable bouquet, and sweets that are not nearly so nice as they look.

There are two occasions when you may count on that kind of a meal; always on the Sixteenth of September, and on the two-yearly visits of Father Shannon.  It is absurd, of course, that El Pueblo de Las Uvas should have an Irish priest, but Black Rock, Minton, Jimville, and all that country round do not find it so.  Father Shannon visits them all, waits by the Red Butte to confess the shepherds who go through with their flocks, carries blessing to small and isolated mines, and so in the course of a year or so works around to Las Uvas to bury and marry and christen.  Then all the little graves in the Campo Santo are brave with tapers, the brown pine headboards blossom like Aaron’s rod with paper roses and bright cheap prints of Our Lady of Sorrows.  Then the Señora Sevadra, who thinks herself elect of heaven for that office, gathers up the original sinners, the little Elijias, Lolas, Manuelitas, José, and Felipés, by dint of adjurations and sweets smuggled into small perspiring palms, to fit them for the Sacrament.

I used to peek in at them, never so softly, in Dona Ina’s living-room; Raphael-eyed little imps, going sidewise on their knees to rest them from the bare floor, candles lit on the mantel to give a religious air, and a great sheaf of wild bloom before the Holy Family.  Come Sunday they set out the altar in the schoolhouse, with the fine-drawn altar cloths, the beaten silver candlesticks, and the wax images, chief glory of Las Uvas, brought up mule-back from Old Mexico forty years ago.  All in white the communicants go up two and two in a hushed, sweet awe to take the body of their Lord, and Tomaso, who is priest’s boy, tries not to look unduly puffed up by his office.  After that you have dinner and a bottle of wine that ripened on the sunny slope of Escondito.  All the week Father Shannon has shriven his people, who bring clean conscience to the betterment of appetite, and the Father sets them an example.  Father Shannon is rather big about the middle to accommodate the large laugh that lives in him, but a most shrewd searcher of hearts.  It is reported that one derives comfort from his confessional, and I for my part believe it.

The celebration of the Sixteenth, though it comes every year, takes as long to prepare for as Holy Communion.  The señoritas have each a new dress apiece, the señoras a new rebosa.  The young gentlemen have new silver trimmings to their sombreros, unspeakable ties, silk handkerchiefs, and new leathers to their spurs.  At this time when the peppers glow in the gardens and the young quail cry “cuidado,” “have a care!” you can hear the plump, plump of the metate from the alcoves of the vines where comfortable old dames, whose experience gives them the touch of art, are pounding out corn for tamales.

School-teachers from abroad have tried before now at Las Uvas to have school begin on the first of September, but got nothing else to stir in the heads of the little Castros, Garcias, and Romeros but feasts and cock-fights until after the Sixteenth.  Perhaps you need to be told that this is the anniversary of the Republic, when liberty awoke and cried in the provinces of Old Mexico.  You are aroused at midnight to hear them shouting in the streets, “Vive la Libertad!” answered from the houses and the recesses of the vines, “Vive la Mexico!” At sunrise shots are fired commemorating the tragedy of unhappy Maximilian, and then music, the noblest of national hymns, as the great flag of Old Mexico floats up the flag-pole in the bare little plaza of shabby Las Uvas.  The sun over Pine Mountain greets the eagle of Montezuma before it touches the vineyards and the town, and the day begins with a great shout.  By and by there will be a reading of the Declaration of Independence and an address punctured by vives; all the town in its best dress, and some exhibits of horsemanship that make lathered bits and bloodly spurs; also a cock-fight.

By night there will be dancing, and such music! old Santos to play the flute, a little lean man with a saintly countenance, young Garcia whose guitar has a soul, and Carrasco with the violin.  They sit on a high platform above the dancers in the candle flare, backed by the red, white, and green of Old Mexico, and play fervently such music as you will not hear otherwhere.

At midnight the flag comes down.  Count yourself at a loss if you are not moved by that performance.  Pine Mountain watches whitely overhead, shepherd fires glow strongly on the glooming hills.  The plaza, the bare glistening pole, the dark folk, the bright dresses, are lit ruddily by a bonfire.  It leaps up to the eagle flag, dies down, the music begins softly and aside.  They play airs of old longing and exile; slowly out of the dark the flag drops down, bellying and falling with the midnight draught.  Sometimes a hymn is sung, always there are tears.  The flag is down; Tony Sevadra has received it in his arms.  The music strikes a barbaric swelling tune, another flag begins a slow ascent,—­it takes a breath or two to realize that they are both, flag and tune, the Star Spangled Banner,—­a volley is fired, we are back, if you please, in California of America.  Every youth who has the blood of patriots in him lays ahold on Tony Sevadra’s flag, happiest if he can get a corner of it.  The music goes before, the folk fall in two and two, singing.  They sing everything, America, the Marseillaise, for the sake of the French shepherds hereabout, the hymn of Cuba, and the Chilian national air to comfort two families of that land.  The flag goes to Do±a Ina’s, with the candlesticks and the altar cloths, then Las Uvas eats tamales and dances the sun up the slope of Pine Mountain.

You are not to suppose that they do not keep the Fourth, Washington’s Birthday, and Thanksgiving at the town of the grape vines.  These make excellent occasions for quitting work and dancing, but the Sixteenth is the holiday of the heart.  On Memorial Day the graves have garlands and new pictures of the saints tacked to the headboards.  There is great virtue in an Ave said in the Camp of the Saints.  I like that name which the Spanish speaking people give to the garden of the dead, Campo Santo, as if it might be some bed of healing from which blind souls and sinners rise up whole and praising God.  Sometimes the speech of simple folk hints at truth the understanding does not reach.  I am persuaded only a complex soul can get any good of a plain religion.  Your earth-born is a poet and a symbolist.  We breed in an environment of asphalt pavements a body of people whose creeds are chiefly restrictions against other people’s way of life, and have kitchens and latrines under the same roof that houses their God.  Such as these go to church to be edified, but at Las Uvas they go for pure worship and to entreat their God.  The logical conclusion of the faith that every good gift cometh from God is the open hand and the finer courtesy.  The meal done without buys a candle for the neighbor’s dead child.  You do foolishly to suppose that the candle does no good.

At Las Uvas every house is a piece of earth—­thick walled, whitewashed adobe that keeps the even temperature of a cave; every man is an accomplished horseman and consequently bow-legged; every family keeps dogs, flea-bitten mongrels that loll on the earthen floors.  They speak a purer Castilian than obtains in like villages of Mexico, and the way they count relationship everybody is more or less akin.  There is not much villainy among them.  What incentive to thieving or killing can there be when there is little wealth and that to be had for the borrowing!  If they love too hotly, as we say “take their meat before grace,” so do their betters.  Eh, what! shall a man be a saint before he is dead?  And besides, Holy Church takes it out of you one way or another before all is done.  Come away, you who are obsessed with your own importance in the scheme of things, and have got nothing you did not sweat for, come away by the brown valleys and full-bosomed hills to the even-breathing days, to the kindliness, earthiness, ease of El Pueblo de Las Uvas.