Early in the morning, when marching
from a little town called Changu, we had a river to
pass, which we were obliged to ferry; and, had the
Tartars had any intelligence, then had been the time
to have attacked us, when the caravan being over, the
rear-guard was behind; but they did not appear there.
About three hours after, when we were entered upon
a desert of about fifteen or sixteen miles over, we
knew by a cloud of dust they raised, that the enemy
was at hand, and presently they came on upon the spur.
Our Chinese guards in the front, who
had talked so big the day before, began to stagger;
and the soldiers frequently looked behind them, a
certain sign in a soldier that he is just ready to
run away. My old pilot was of my mind; and being
near me, called out, “Seignior Inglese, these
fellows must be encouraged, or they will ruin us all;
for if the Tartars come on they will never stand it.”-
-“If am of your mind,” said I; “but what
must be done?”—“Done?”
says he, “let fifty of our men advance, and flank
them on each wing, and encourage them. They
will fight like brave fellows in brave company; but
without this they will every man turn his back.”
Immediately I rode up to our leader and told him, who
was exactly of our mind; accordingly, fifty of us
marched to the right wing, and fifty to the left,
and the rest made a line of rescue; and so we marched,
leaving the last two hundred men to make a body of
themselves, and to guard the camels; only that, if
need were, they should send a hundred men to assist
the last fifty.
At last the Tartars came on, and an
innumerable company they were; how many we could not
tell, but ten thousand, we thought, at the least.
A party of them came on first, and viewed our posture,
traversing the ground in the front of our line; and,
as we found them within gunshot, our leader ordered
the two wings to advance swiftly, and give them a
salvo on each wing with their shot, which was done.
They then went off, I suppose to give an account of
the reception they were like to meet with; indeed,
that salute cloyed their stomachs, for they immediately
halted, stood a while to consider of it, and wheeling
off to the left, they gave over their design for that
time, which was very agreeable to our circumstances.
Two days after we came to the city
of Naun, or Naum; we thanked the governor for his
care of us, and collected to the value of a hundred
crowns, or thereabouts, which we gave to the soldiers
sent to guard us; and here we rested one day.
This is a garrison indeed, and there were nine hundred
soldiers kept here; but the reason of it was, that
formerly the Muscovite frontiers lay nearer to them
than they now do, the Muscovites having abandoned that
part of the country, which lies from this city west
for about two hundred miles, as desolate and unfit
for use; and more especially being so very remote,
and so difficult to send troops thither for its defence;
for we were yet above two thousand miles from Muscovy
properly so called. After this we passed several
great rivers, and two dreadful deserts; one of which
we were sixteen days passing over; and on the 13th
of April we came to the frontiers of the Muscovite
dominions. I think the first town or fortress,
whichever it may he called, that belonged to the Czar,
was called Arguna, being on the west side of the river
Arguna.
I could not but feel great satisfaction
that I was arrived in a country governed by Christians;
for though the Muscovites do, in my opinion, but just
deserve the name of Christians, yet such they pretend
to be, and are very devout in their way. It would
certainly occur to any reflecting man who travels the
world as I have done, what a blessing it is to be
brought into the world where the name of God and a
Redeemer is known, adored, and worshipped; and not
where the people, given up to strong delusions, worship
the devil, and prostrate themselves to monsters, elements,
horrid-shaped animals, and monstrous images.
Not a town or city we passed through but had their
pagodas, their idols, and their temples, and ignorant
people worshipping even the works of their own hands.
Now we came where, at least, a face of the Christian
worship appeared; where the knee was bowed to Jesus:
and whether ignorantly or not, yet the Christian
religion was owned, and the name of the true God was
called upon and adored; and it made my soul rejoice
to see it. I saluted the brave Scots merchant
with my first acknowledgment of this; and taking him
by the hand, I said to him, “Blessed be God,
we are once again amongst Christians.”
He smiled, and answered, “Do not rejoice too
soon, countryman; these Muscovites are but an odd
sort of Christians; and but for the name of it you
may see very little of the substance for some months
further of our journey.”— “Well,”
says I, “but still it is better than paganism,
and worshipping of devils.”—“Why,
I will tell you,” says he; “except the
Russian soldiers in the garrisons, and a few of the
inhabitants of the cities upon the road, all the rest
of this country, for above a thousand miles farther,
is inhabited by the worst and most ignorant of pagans.”
And so, indeed, we found it.
We now launched into the greatest
piece of solid earth that is to be found in any part
of the world; we had, at least, twelve thousand miles
to the sea eastward; two thousand to the bottom of
the Baltic Sea westward; and above three thousand,
if we left that sea, and went on west, to the British
and French channels: we had full five thousand
miles to the Indian or Persian Sea south; and about
eight hundred to the Frozen Sea north.
We advanced from the river Arguna
by easy and moderate journeys, and were very visibly
obliged to the care the Czar has taken to have cities
and towns built in as many places as it is possible
to place them, where his soldiers keep garrison, something
like the stationary soldiers placed by the Romans
in the remotest countries of their empire; some of
which I had read of were placed in Britain, for the
security of commerce, and for the lodging of travellers.
Thus it was here; for wherever we came, though at
these towns and stations the garrisons and governors
were Russians, and professed Christians, yet the inhabitants
were mere pagans, sacrificing to idols, and worshipping
the sun, moon, and stars, or all the host of heaven;
and not only so, but were, of all the heathens and
pagans that ever I met with, the most barbarous, except
only that they did not eat men’s flesh.
Some instances of this we met with
in the country between Arguna, where we enter the
Muscovite dominions, and a city of Tartars and Russians
together, called Nortziousky, in which is a continued
desert or forest, which cost us twenty days to travel
over. In a village near the last of these places
I had the curiosity to go and see their way of living,
which is most brutish and unsufferable. They
had, I suppose, a great sacrifice that day; for there
stood out, upon an old stump of a tree, a diabolical
kind of idol made of wood; it was dressed up, too,
in the most filthy manner; its upper garment was of
sheepskins, with the wool outward; a great Tartar
bonnet on the head, with two horns growing through
it; it was about eight feet high, yet had no feet
or legs, nor any other proportion of parts.
This scarecrow was set up at the outer
side of the village; and when I came near to it there
were sixteen or seventeen creatures all lying flat
upon the ground round this hideous block of wood; I
saw no motion among them, any more than if they had
been all logs, like the idol, and at first I really
thought they had been so; but, when I came a little
nearer, they started up upon their feet, and raised
a howl, as if it had been so many deep-mouthed hounds,
and walked away, as if they were displeased at our
disturbing them. A little way off from the idol,
and at the door of a hut, made of sheep and cow skins
dried, stood three men with long knives in their hands;
and in the middle of the tent appeared three sheep
killed, and one young bullock. These, it seems,
were sacrifices to that senseless log of an idol;
the three men were priests belonging to it, and the
seventeen prostrated wretches were the people who
brought the offering, and were offering their prayers
to that stock.
I confess I was more moved at their
stupidity and brutish worship of a hobgoblin than
ever I was at anything in my life, and, overcome with
rage, I rode up to the hideous idol, and with my sword
made a stroke at the bonnet that was on its head, and
cut it in two; and one of our men that was with me,
taking hold of the sheepskin that covered it, pulled
at it, when, behold, a most hideous outcry ran through
the village, and two or three hundred people came
about my ears, so that I was glad to scour for it,
for some had bows and arrows; but I resolved from
that moment to visit them again. Our caravan
rested three nights at the town, which was about four
miles off, in order to provide some horses which they
wanted, several of the horses having been lamed and
jaded with the long march over the last desert; so
we had some leisure here to put my design in execution.
I communicated it to the Scots merchant, of whose
courage I had sufficient testimony; I told him what
I had seen, and with what indignation I had since
thought that human nature could be so degenerate;
I told him if I could get but four or five men well
armed to go with me, I was resolved to go and destroy
that vile, abominable idol, and let them see that it
had no power to help itself, and consequently could
not be an object of worship, or to be prayed to, much
less help them that offered sacrifices to it.
He at first objected to my plan as
useless, seeing that, owing to the gross ignorance
of the people, they could not be brought to profit
by the lesson I meant to teach them; and added that,
from his knowledge of the country and its customs,
he feared we should fall into great peril by giving
offence to these brutal idol worshippers. This
somewhat stayed my purpose, but I was still uneasy
all that day to put my project in execution; and that
evening, meeting the Scots merchant in our walk about
the town, I again called upon him to aid me in it.
When he found me resolute he said that, on further
thoughts, he could not but applaud the design, and
told me I should not go alone, but he would go with
me; but he would go first and bring a stout fellow,
one of his countrymen, to go also with us; “and
one,” said he, “as famous for his zeal
as you can desire any one to be against such devilish
things as these.” So we agreed to go, only
we three and my man-servant, and resolved to put
it in execution the following night about midnight,
with all possible secrecy.
We thought it better to delay it till
the next night, because the caravan being to set forward
in the morning, we suppose the governor could not
pretend to give them any satisfaction upon us when
we were out of his power. The Scots merchant,
as steady in his resolution for the enterprise as
bold in executing, brought me a Tartar’s robe
or gown of sheepskins, and a bonnet, with a bow and
arrows, and had provided the same for himself and his
countryman, that the people, if they saw us, should
not determine who we were. All the first night
we spent in mixing up some combustible matter, with
aqua vitae, gunpowder, and such other materials as
we could get; and having a good quantity of tar in
a little pot, about an hour after night we set out
upon our expedition.
We came to the place about eleven
o’clock at night, and found that the people
had not the least suspicion of danger attending their
idol. The night was cloudy: yet the moon
gave us light enough to see that the idol stood just
in the same posture and place that it did before.
The people seemed to be all at their rest; only that
in the great hut, where we saw the three priests, we
saw a light, and going up close to the door, we heard
people talking as if there were five or six of them;
we concluded, therefore, that if we set wildfire to
the idol, those men would come out immediately, and
run up to the place to rescue it from destruction;
and what to do with them we knew not. Once we
thought of carrying it away, and setting fire to it
at a distance; but when we came to handle it, we found
it too bulky for our carriage, so we were at a loss
again. The second Scotsman was for setting fire
to the hut, and knocking the creatures that were there
on the head when they came out; but I could not join
with that; I was against killing them, if it were
possible to avoid it. “Well, then,”
said the Scots merchant, “I will tell you what
we will do: we will try to make them prisoners,
tie their hands, and make them stand and see their
idol destroyed.”
As it happened, we had twine or packthread
enough about us, which we used to tie our firelocks
together with; so we resolved to attack these people
first, and with as little noise as we could.
The first thing we did, we knocked at the door, when
one of the priests coming to it, we immediately seized
upon him, stopped his mouth, and tied his hands behind
him, and led him to the idol, where we gagged him
that he might not make a noise, tied his feet also
together, and left him on the ground.
Two of us then waited at the door,
expecting that another would come out to see what
the matter was; but we waited so long till the third
man came back to us; and then nobody coming out, we
knocked again gently, and immediately out came two
more, and we served them just in the same manner,
but were obliged to go all with them, and lay them
down by the idol some distance from one another; when,
going back, we found two more were come out of the
door, and a third stood behind them within the door.
We seized the two, and immediately tied them, when
the third, stepping back and crying out, my Scots
merchant went in after them, and taking out a composition
we had made that would only smoke and stink, he set
fire to it, and threw it in among them. By that
time the other Scotsman and my man, taking charge
of the two men already bound, and tied together also
by the arm, led them away to the idol, and left them
there, to see if their idol would relieve them, making
haste back to us.
When the fuze we had thrown in had
filled the hut with so much smoke that they were almost
suffocated, we threw in a small leather bag of another
kind, which flamed like a candle, and, following it
in, we found there were but four people, who, as we
supposed, had been about some of their diabolical
sacrifices. They appeared, in short, frightened
to death, at least so as to sit trembling and stupid,
and not able to speak either, for the smoke.
We quickly took them from the hut,
where the smoke soon drove us out, bound them as we
had done the other, and all without any noise.
Then we carried them all together to the idol; when
we came there, we fell to work with him. First,
we daubed him all over, and his robes also, with tar,
and tallow mixed with brimstone; then we stopped his
eyes and ears and mouth full of gunpowder, and wrapped
up a great piece of wildfire in his bonnet; then sticking
all the combustibles we had brought with us upon him,
we looked about to see if we could find anything else
to help to burn him; when my Scotsman remembered that
by the hut, where the men were, there lay a heap of
dry forage; away he and the other Scotsman ran and
fetched their arms full of that. When we had
done this, we took all our prisoners, and brought
them, having untied their feet and ungagged their
mouths, and made them stand up, and set them before
their monstrous idol, and then set fire to the whole.
We stayed by it a quarter of an hour
or thereabouts, till the powder in the eyes and mouth
and ears of the idol blew up, and, as we could perceive,
had split altogether; and in a word, till we saw it
burned so that it would soon be quite consumed.
We then began to think of going away; but the Scotsman
said, “No, we must not go, for these poor deluded
wretches will all throw themselves into the fire,
and burn themselves with the idol.” So
we resolved to stay till the forage has burned down
too, and then came away and left them. After
the feat was performed, we appeared in the morning
among our fellow-travellers, exceedingly busy in getting
ready for our journey; nor could any man suppose that
we had been anywhere but in our beds.
But the affair did not end so; the
next day came a great number of the country people
to the town gates, and in a most outrageous manner
demanded satisfaction of the Russian governor for the
insulting their priests and burning their great Cham
Chi-Thaungu. The people of Nertsinkay were at
first in a great consternation, for they said the
Tartars were already no less than thirty thousand
strong. The Russian governor sent out messengers
to appease them, assuring them that he knew nothing
of it, and that there had not a soul in his garrison
been abroad, so that it could not be from anybody
there: but if they could let him know who did
it, they should be exemplarily punished. They
returned haughtily, that all the country reverenced
the great Cham Chi-Thaungu, who dwelt in the sun,
and no mortal would have dared to offer violence to
his image but some Christian miscreant; and they therefore
resolved to denounce war against him and all the Russians,
who, they said, were miscreants and Christians.
The governor, unwilling to make a
breach, or to have any cause of war alleged to be
given by him, the Czar having strictly charged him
to treat the conquered country with gentleness, gave
them all the good words he could. At last he
told them there was a caravan gone towards Russia
that morning, and perhaps it was some of them who
had done them this injury; and that if they would be
satisfied with that, he would send after them to inquire
into it. This seemed to appease them a little;
and accordingly the governor sent after us, and gave
us a particular account how the thing was; intimating
withal, that if any in our caravan had done it they
should make their escape; but that whether we had done
it or no, we should make all the haste forward that
was possible: and that, in the meantime, he
would keep them in play as long as he could.
This was very friendly in the governor;
however, when it came to the caravan, there was nobody
knew anything of the matter; and as for us that were
guilty, we were least of all suspected. However,
the captain of the caravan for the time took the hint
that the governor gave us, and we travelled two days
and two nights without any considerable stop, and
then we lay at a village called Plothus: nor
did we make any long stop here, but hastened on towards
Jarawena, another Muscovite colony, and where we expected
we should be safe. But upon the second day’s
march from Plothus, by the clouds of dust behind us
at a great distance, it was plain we were pursued.
We had entered a vast desert, and had passed by a
great lake called Schanks Oser, when we perceived
a large body of horse appear on the other side of
the lake, to the north, we travelling west.
We observed they went away west, as we did, but had
supposed we would have taken that side of the lake,
whereas we very happily took the south side; and in
two days more they disappeared again: for they,
believing we were still before them, pushed on till
they came to the Udda, a very great river when it
passes farther north, but when we came to it we found
it narrow and fordable.
The third day they had either found
their mistake, or had intelligence of us, and came
pouring in upon us towards dusk. We had, to
our great satisfaction, just pitched upon a convenient
place for our camp; for as we had just entered upon
a desert above five hundred miles over, where we had
no towns to lodge at, and, indeed, expected none but
the city Jarawena, which we had yet two days’
march to; the desert, however, had some few woods in
it on this side, and little rivers, which ran all
into the great river Udda; it was in a narrow strait,
between little but very thick woods, that we pitched
our camp that night, expecting to be attacked before
morning. As it was usual for the Mogul Tartars
to go about in troops in that desert, so the caravans
always fortify themselves every night against them,
as against armies of robbers; and it was, therefore,
no new thing to be pursued. But we had this
night a most advantageous camp: for as we lay
between two woods, with a little rivulet running just
before our front, we could not be surrounded, or attacked
any way but in our front or rear. We took care
also to make our front as strong as we could, by placing
our packs, with the camels and horses, all in a line,
on the inside of the river, and felling some trees
in our rear.
In this posture we encamped for the
night; but the enemy was upon us before we had finished.
They did not come on like thieves, as we expected,
but sent three messengers to us, to demand the men
to be delivered to them that had abused their priests
and burned their idol, that they might burn them with
fire; and upon this, they said, they would go away,
and do us no further harm, otherwise they would destroy
us all. Our men looked very blank at this message,
and began to stare at one another to see who looked
with the most guilt in their faces; but nobody was
the word—nobody did it. The leader
of the caravan sent word he was well assured that it
was not done by any of our camp; that we were peaceful
merchants, travelling on our business; that we had
done no harm to them or to any one else; and that,
therefore, they must look further for the enemies
who had injured them, for we were not the people; so
they desired them not to disturb us, for if they did
we should defend ourselves.
They were far from being satisfied
with this for an answer: and a great crowd of
them came running down in the morning, by break of
day, to our camp; but seeing us so well posted, they
durst come no farther than the brook in our front,
where they stood in such number as to terrify us very
much; indeed, some spoke of ten thousand. Here
they stood and looked at us a while, and then, setting
up a great howl, let fly a crowd of arrows among us;
but we were well enough sheltered under our baggage,
and I do not remember that one of us was hurt.
Some time after this we saw them move
a little to our right, and expected them on the rear:
when a cunning fellow, a Cossack of Jarawena, calling
to the leader of the caravan, said to him, “I
will send all these people away to Sibeilka.”
This was a city four or five days’ journey
at least to the right, and rather behind us.
So he takes his bow and arrows, and getting on horseback,
he rides away from our rear directly, as it were back
to Nertsinskay; after this he takes a great circuit
about, and comes directly on the army of the Tartars
as if he had been sent express to tell them a long
story that the people who had burned the Cham Chi-Thaungu
were gone to Sibeilka, with a caravan of miscreants,
as he called them—that is to say, Christians;
and that they had resolved to burn the god Scal-Isar,
belonging to the Tonguses. As this fellow was
himself a Tartar, and perfectly spoke their language,
he counterfeited so well that they all believed him,
and away they drove in a violent hurry to Sibeilka.
In less than three hours they were entirely out of
our sight, and we never heard any more of them, nor
whether they went to Sibeilka or no. So we passed
away safely on to Jarawena, where there was a Russian
garrison, and there we rested five days.
From this city we had a frightful
desert, which held us twenty-three days’ march.
We furnished ourselves with some tents here, for
the better accommodating ourselves in the night; and
the leader of the caravan procured sixteen waggons
of the country, for carrying our water or provisions,
and these carriages were our defence every night round
our little camp; so that had the Tartars appeared,
unless they had been very numerous indeed, they would
not have been able to hurt us. We may well be
supposed to have wanted rest again after this long
journey; for in this desert we neither saw house nor
tree, and scarce a bush; though we saw abundance of
the sable-hunters, who are all Tartars of Mogul Tartary;
of which this country is a part; and they frequently
attack small caravans, but we saw no numbers of them
together.
After we had passed this desert we
came into a country pretty well inhabited—that
is to say, we found towns and castles, settled by
the Czar with garrisons of stationary soldiers, to
protect the caravans and defend the country against
the Tartars, who would otherwise make it very dangerous
travelling; and his czarish majesty has given such
strict orders for the well guarding the caravans,
that, if there are any Tartars heard of in the country,
detachments of the garrison are always sent to see
the travellers safe from station to station.
Thus the governor of Adinskoy, whom I had an opportunity
to make a visit to, by means of the Scots merchant,
who was acquainted with him, offered us a guard of
fifty men, if we thought there was any danger, to
the next station.
I thought, long before this, that
as we came nearer to Europe we should find the country
better inhabited, and the people more civilised; but
I found myself mistaken in both: for we had yet
the nation of the Tonguses to pass through, where
we saw the same tokens of paganism and barbarity as
before; only, as they were conquered by the Muscovites,
they were not so dangerous, but for rudeness of manners
and idolatry no people in the world ever went beyond
them. They are all clothed in skins of beasts,
and their houses are built of the same; you know not
a man from a woman, neither by the ruggedness of their
countenances nor their clothes; and in the winter,
when the ground is covered with snow, they live underground
in vaults, which have cavities going from one to another.
If the Tartars had their Cham Chi-Thaungu for a whole
village or country, these had idols in every hut and
every cave. This country, I reckon, was, from
the desert I spoke of last, at least four hundred
miles, half of it being another desert, which took
us up twelve days’ severe travelling, without
house or tree; and we were obliged again to carry
our own provisions, as well water as bread.
After we were out of this desert and had travelled
two days, we came to Janezay, a Muscovite city or station,
on the great river Janezay, which, they told us there,
parted Europe from Asia.
All the country between the river
Oby and the river Janezay is as entirely pagan, and
the people as barbarous, as the remotest of the Tartars.
I also found, which I observed to the Muscovite governors
whom I had an opportunity to converse with, that the
poor pagans are not much wiser, or nearer Christianity,
for being under the Muscovite government, which they
acknowledged was true enough—but that,
as they said, was none of their business; that if the
Czar expected to convert his Siberian, Tonguse, or
Tartar subjects, it should be done by sending clergymen
among them, not soldiers; and they added, with more
sincerity than I expected, that it was not so much
the concern of their monarch to make the people Christians
as to make them subjects.
From this river to the Oby we crossed
a wild uncultivated country, barren of people and
good management, otherwise it is in itself a pleasant,
fruitful, and agreeable country. What inhabitants
we found in it are all pagans, except such as are
sent among them from Russia; for this is the country—I
mean on both sides the river Oby—whither
the Muscovite criminals that are not put to death are
banished, and from whence it is next to impossible
they should ever get away. I have nothing material
to say of my particular affairs till I came to Tobolski,
the capital city of Siberia, where I continued some
time on the following account.
We had now been almost seven months
on our journey, and winter began to come on apace;
whereupon my partner and I called a council about
our particular affairs, in which we found it proper,
as we were bound for England, to consider how to dispose
of ourselves. They told us of sledges and reindeer
to carry us over the snow in the winter time, by which
means, indeed, the Russians travel more in winter
than they can in summer, as in these sledges they are
able to run night and day: the snow, being frozen,
is one universal covering to nature, by which the
hills, vales, rivers, and lakes are all smooth and
hard is a stone, and they run upon the surface, without
any regard to what is underneath.
But I had no occasion to urge a winter
journey of this kind. I was bound to England,
not to Moscow, and my route lay two ways: either
I must go on as the caravan went, till I came to Jarislaw,
and then go off west for Narva and the Gulf of Finland,
and so on to Dantzic, where I might possibly sell
my China cargo to good advantage; or I must leave
the caravan at a little town on the Dwina, from whence
I had but six days by water to Archangel, and from
thence might be sure of shipping either to England,
Holland, or Hamburg.
Now, to go any one of these journeys
in the winter would have been preposterous; for as
to Dantzic, the Baltic would have been frozen up and
I could not get passage; and to go by land in those
countries was far less safe than among the Mogul Tartars;
likewise, as to Archangel in October, all the ships
would be gone from thence, and even the merchants
who dwell there in summer retire south to Moscow in
the winter, when the ships are gone; so that I could
have nothing but extremity of cold to encounter, with
a scarcity of provisions, and must lie in an empty
town all the winter. Therefore, upon the whole,
I thought it much my better way to let the caravan
go, and make provision to winter where I was, at Tobolski,
in Siberia, in the latitude of about sixty degrees,
where I was sure of three things to wear out a cold
winter with, viz. plenty of provisions, such
as the country afforded, a warm house, with fuel enough,
and excellent company.
I was now in quite a different climate
from my beloved island, where I never felt cold, except
when I had my ague; on the contrary, I had much to
do to bear any clothes on my back, and never made
any fire but without doors, which was necessary for
dressing my food, &c. Now I had three good vests,
with large robes or gowns over them, to hang down
to the feet, and button close to the wrists; and all
these lined with furs, to make them sufficiently warm.
As to a warm house, I must confess I greatly dislike
our way in England of making fires in every room of
the house in open chimneys, which, when the fire is
out, always keeps the air in the room cold as the
climate. So I took an apartment in a good house
in the town, and ordered a chimney to be built like
a furnace, in the centre of six several rooms, like
a stove; the funnel to carry the smoke went up one
way, the door to come at the fire went in another,
and all the rooms were kept equally warm, but no fire
seen, just as they heat baths in England. By
this means we had always the same climate in all the
rooms, and an equal heat was preserved, and yet we
saw no fire, nor were ever incommoded with smoke.
The most wonderful thing of all was,
that it should be possible to meet with good company
here, in a country so barbarous as this—one
of the most northerly parts of Europe. But this
being the country where the state criminals of Muscovy,
as I observed before, are all banished, the city was
full of Russian noblemen, gentlemen, soldiers, and
courtiers. Here was the famous Prince Galitzin,
the old German Robostiski, and several other persons
of note, and some ladies. By means of my Scotch
merchant, whom, nevertheless, I parted with here,
I made an acquaintance with several of these gentlemen;
and from these, in the long winter nights in which
I stayed here, I received several very agreeable visits.