It was the beginning of February,
new style, when we set out from Pekin. My partner
and the old pilot had gone express back to the port
where we had first put in, to dispose of some goods
which we had left there; and I, with a Chinese merchant
whom I had some knowledge of at Nankin, and who came
to Pekin on his own affairs, went to Nankin, where
I bought ninety pieces of fine damasks, with about
two hundred pieces of other very fine silk of several
sorts, some mixed with gold, and had all these brought
to Pekin against my partner’s return.
Besides this, we bought a large quantity of raw silk,
and some other goods, our cargo amounting, in these
goods only, to about three thousand five hundred pounds
sterling; which, together with tea and some fine calicoes,
and three camels’ loads of nutmegs and cloves,
loaded in all eighteen camels for our share, besides
those we rode upon; these, with two or three spare
horses, and two horses loaded with provisions, made
together twenty-six camels and horses in our retinue.
The company was very great, and, as
near as I can remember, made between three and four
hundred horses, and upwards of one hundred and twenty
men, very well armed and provided for all events; for
as the Eastern caravans are subject to be attacked
by the Arabs, so are these by the Tartars. The
company consisted of people of several nations, but
there were above sixty of them merchants or inhabitants
of Moscow, though of them some were Livonians; and
to our particular satisfaction, five of them were
Scots, who appeared also to be men of great experience
in business, and of very good substance.
When we had travelled one day’s
journey, the guides, who were five in number, called
all the passengers, except the servants, to a great
council, as they called it. At this council every
one deposited a certain quantity of money to a common
stock, for the necessary expense of buying forage
on the way, where it was not otherwise to be had,
and for satisfying the guides, getting horses, and
the like. Here, too, they constituted the journey,
as they call it, viz. they named captains and
officers to draw us all up, and give the word of command,
in case of an attack, and give every one their turn
of command; nor was this forming us into order any
more than what we afterwards found needful on the way.
The road all on this side of the country
is very populous, and is full of potters and earth-makers—that
is to say, people, that temper the earth for the China
ware. As I was coming along, our Portuguese
pilot, who had always something or other to say to
make us merry, told me he would show me the greatest
rarity in all the country, and that I should have
this to say of China, after all the ill-humoured things
that I had said of it, that I had seen one thing which
was not to be seen in all the world beside. I
was very importunate to know what it was; at last
he told me it was a gentleman’s house built
with China ware. “Well,” says I,
“are not the materials of their buildings the
products of their own country, and so it is all China
ware, is it not?”—“No, no,”
says he, “I mean it is a house all made of China
ware, such as you call it in England, or as it is
called in our country, porcelain.”—“Well,”
says I, “such a thing may be; how big is it?
Can we carry it in a box upon a camel? If we
can we will buy it.”—“Upon a
camel!” says the old pilot, holding up both
his hands; “why, there is a family of thirty
people lives in it.”
I was then curious, indeed, to see
it; and when I came to it, it was nothing but this:
it was a timber house, or a house built, as we call
it in England, with lath and plaster, but all this
plastering was really China ware—that is
to say, it was plastered with the earth that makes
China ware. The outside, which the sun shone
hot upon, was glazed, and looked very well, perfectly
white, and painted with blue figures, as the large
China ware in England is painted, and hard as if it
had been burnt. As to the inside, all the walls,
instead of wainscot, were lined with hardened and
painted tiles, like the little square tiles we call
galley-tiles in England, all made of the finest china,
and the figures exceeding fine indeed, with extraordinary
variety of colours, mixed with gold, many tiles making
but one figure, but joined so artificially, the mortar
being made of the same earth, that it was very hard
to see where the tiles met. The floors of the
rooms were of the same composition, and as hard as
the earthen floors we have in use in several parts
of England; as hard as stone, and smooth, but not
burnt and painted, except some smaller rooms, like
closets, which were all, as it were, paved with the
same tile; the ceiling and all the plastering work
in the whole house were of the same earth; and, after
all, the roof was covered with tiles of the same, but
of a deep shining black. This was a China warehouse
indeed, truly and literally to be called so, and had
I not been upon the journey, I could have stayed some
days to see and examine the particulars of it.
They told me there were fountains and fishponds in
the garden, all paved on the bottom and sides with
the same; and fine statues set up in rows on the walks,
entirely formed of the porcelain earth, burnt whole.
As this is one of the singularities
of China, so they may be allowed to excel in it; but
I am very sure they excel in their accounts of it;
for they told me such incredible things of their performance
in crockery-ware, for such it is, that I care not to
relate, as knowing it could not be true. They
told me, in particular, of one workman that made a
ship with all its tackle and masts and sails in earthenware,
big enough to carry fifty men. If they had told
me he launched it, and made a voyage to Japan in it,
I might have said something to it indeed; but as it
was, I knew the whole of the story, which was, in
short, that the fellow lied: so I smiled, and
said nothing to it. This odd sight kept me two
hours behind the caravan, for which the leader of
it for the day fined me about the value of three shillings;
and told me if it had been three days’ journey
without the wall, as it was three days’ within,
he must have fined me four times as much, and made
me ask pardon the next council-day. I promised
to be more orderly; and, indeed, I found afterwards
the orders made for keeping all together were absolutely
necessary for our common safety.
In two days more we passed the great
China wall, made for a fortification against the Tartars:
and a very great work it is, going over hills and
mountains in an endless track, where the rocks are
impassable, and the precipices such as no enemy could
possibly enter, or indeed climb up, or where, if they
did, no wall could hinder them. They tell us
its length is near a thousand English miles, but that
the country is five hundred in a straight measured
line, which the wall bounds without measuring the windings
and turnings it takes; it is about four fathoms high,
and as many thick in some places.
I stood still an hour or thereabouts
without trespassing on our orders (for so long the
caravan was in passing the gate), to look at it on
every side, near and far off; I mean what was within
my view: and the guide, who had been extolling
it for the wonder of the world, was mighty eager to
hear my opinion of it. I told him it was a most
excellent thing to keep out the Tartars; which he
happened not to understand as I meant it and so took
it for a compliment; but the old pilot laughed!
“Oh, Seignior Inglese,” says he, “you
speak in colours.”—“In colours!”
said I; “what do you mean by that?”—“Why,
you speak what looks white this way and black that
way—gay one way and dull another.
You tell him it is a good wall to keep out Tartars;
you tell me by that it is good for nothing but to
keep out Tartars. I understand you, Seignior
Inglese, I understand you; but Seignior Chinese understood
you his own way.”—“Well,”
says I, “do you think it would stand out an army
of our country people, with a good train of artillery;
or our engineers, with two companies of miners?
Would not they batter it down in ten days, that an
army might enter in battalia; or blow it up in the
air, foundation and all, that there should be no sign
of it left?”—“Ay, ay,”
says he, “I know that.” The Chinese
wanted mightily to know what I said to the pilot,
and I gave him leave to tell him a few days after,
for we were then almost out of their country, and
he was to leave us a little time after this; but when
he knew what I said, he was dumb all the rest of the
way, and we heard no more of his fine story of the
Chinese power and greatness while he stayed.
After we passed this mighty nothing,
called a wall, something like the Picts’ walls
so famous in Northumberland, built by the Romans,
we began to find the country thinly inhabited, and
the people rather confined to live in fortified towns,
as being subject to the inroads and depredations of
the Tartars, who rob in great armies, and therefore
are not to be resisted by the naked inhabitants of
an open country. And here I began to find the
necessity of keeping together in a caravan as we travelled,
for we saw several troops of Tartars roving about;
but when I came to see them distinctly, I wondered
more that the Chinese empire could be conquered by
such contemptible fellows; for they are a mere horde
of wild fellows, keeping no order and understanding
no discipline or manner of it. Their horses are
poor lean creatures, taught nothing, and fit for nothing;
and this we found the first day we saw them, which
was after we entered the wilder part of the country.
Our leader for the day gave leave for about sixteen
of us to go a hunting as they call it; and what was
this but a hunting of sheep!—however, it
may be called hunting too, for these creatures are
the wildest and swiftest of foot that ever I saw of
their kind! only they will not run a great way, and
you are sure of sport when you begin the chase, for
they appear generally thirty or forty in a flock, and,
like true sheep, always keep together when they fly.
In pursuit of this odd sort of game
it was our hap to meet with about forty Tartars:
whether they were hunting mutton, as we were, or
whether they looked for another kind of prey, we know
not; but as soon as they saw us, one of them blew
a hideous blast on a kind of horn. This was
to call their friends about them, and in less than
ten minutes a troop of forty or fifty more appeared,
at about a mile distance; but our work was over first,
as it happened.
One of the Scots merchants of Moscow
happened to be amongst us; and as soon as he heard
the horn, he told us that we had nothing to do but
to charge them without loss of time; and drawing us
up in a line, he asked if we were resolved.
We told him we were ready to follow him; so he rode
directly towards them. They stood gazing at
us like a mere crowd, drawn up in no sort of order
at all; but as soon as they saw us advance, they let
fly their arrows, which missed us, very happily.
Not that they mistook their aim, but their distance;
for their arrows all fell a little short of us, but
with so true an aim, that had we been about twenty
yards nearer we must have had several men wounded,
if not killed.
Immediately we halted, and though
it was at a great distance, we fired, and sent them
leaden bullets for wooden arrows, following our shot
full gallop, to fall in among them sword in hand—for
so our bold Scot that led us directed. He was,
indeed, but a merchant, but he behaved with such vigour
and bravery on this occasion, and yet with such cool
courage too, that I never saw any man in action fitter
for command. As soon as we came up to them we
fired our pistols in their faces and then drew; but
they fled in the greatest confusion imaginable.
The only stand any of them made was on our right,
where three of them stood, and, by signs, called the
rest to come back to them, having a kind of scimitar
in their hands, and their bows hanging to their backs.
Our brave commander, without asking anybody to follow
him, gallops up close to them, and with his fusee
knocks one of them off his horse, killed the second
with his pistol, and the third ran away. Thus
ended our fight; but we had this misfortune attending
it, that all our mutton we had in chase got away.
We had not a man killed or hurt; as for the Tartars,
there were about five of them killed—how
many were wounded we knew not; but this we knew, that
the other party were so frightened with the noise
of our guns that they fled, and never made any attempt
upon us.
We were all this while in the Chinese
dominions, and therefore the Tartars were not so bold
as afterwards; but in about five days we entered a
vast wild desert, which held us three days’ and
nights’ march; and we were obliged to carry
our water with us in great leathern bottles, and to
encamp all night, just as I have heard they do in
the desert of Arabia. I asked our guides whose
dominion this was in, and they told me this was a
kind of border that might be called no man’s
land, being a part of Great Karakathy, or Grand Tartary:
that, however, it was all reckoned as belonging to
China, but that there was no care taken here to preserve
it from the inroads of thieves, and therefore it was
reckoned the worst desert in the whole march, though
we were to go over some much larger.
In passing this frightful wilderness
we saw, two or three times, little parties of the
Tartars, but they seemed to be upon their own affairs,
and to have no design upon us; and so, like the man
who met the devil, if they had nothing to say to us,
we had nothing to say to them: we let them go.
Once, however, a party of them came so near as to
stand and gaze at us. Whether it was to consider
if they should attack us or not, we knew not; but
when we had passed at some distance by them, we made
a rear-guard of forty men, and stood ready for them,
letting the caravan pass half a mile or thereabouts
before us. After a while they marched off, but
they saluted us with five arrows at their parting,
which wounded a horse so that it disabled him, and
we left him the next day, poor creature, in great
need of a good farrier. We saw no more arrows
or Tartars that time.
We travelled near a month after this,
the ways not being so good as at first, though still
in the dominions of the Emperor of China, but lay
for the most part in the villages, some of which were
fortified, because of the incursions of the Tartars.
When we were come to one of these towns (about two
days and a half’s journey before we came to
the city of Naum), I wanted to buy a camel, of which
there are plenty to be sold all the way upon that road,
and horses also, such as they are, because, so many
caravans coming that way, they are often wanted.
The person that I spoke to to get me a camel would
have gone and fetched one for me; but I, like a fool,
must be officious, and go myself along with him; the
place was about two miles out of the village, where
it seems they kept the camels and horses feeding under
a guard.
I walked it on foot, with my old pilot
and a Chinese, being very desirous of a little variety.
When we came to the place it was a low, marshy ground,
walled round with stones, piled up dry, without mortar
or earth among them, like a park, with a little guard
of Chinese soldiers at the door. Having bought
a camel, and agreed for the price, I came away, and
the Chinese that went with me led the camel, when
on a sudden came up five Tartars on horseback.
Two of them seized the fellow and took the camel
from him, while the other three stepped up to me and
my old pilot, seeing us, as it were, unarmed, for
I had no weapon about me but my sword, which could
but ill defend me against three horsemen. The
first that came up stopped short upon my drawing my
sword, for they are arrant cowards; but a second,
coming upon my left, gave me a blow on the head, which
I never felt till afterwards, and wondered, when I
came to myself, what was the matter, and where I was,
for he laid me flat on the ground; but my never-failing
old pilot, the Portuguese, had a pistol in his pocket,
which I knew nothing of, nor the Tartars either:
if they had, I suppose they would not have attacked
us, for cowards are always boldest when there is no
danger. The old man seeing me down, with a bold
heart stepped up to the fellow that had struck me,
and laying hold of his arm with one hand, and pulling
him down by main force a little towards him, with
the other shot him into the head, and laid him dead
upon the spot. He then immediately stepped up
to him who had stopped us, as I said, and before he
could come forward again, made a blow at him with
a scimitar, which he always wore, but missing the man,
struck his horse in the side of his head, cut one
of the ears off by the root, and a great slice down
by the side of his face. The poor beast, enraged
with the wound, was no more to be governed by his
rider, though the fellow sat well enough too, but away
he flew, and carried him quite out of the pilot’s
reach; and at some distance, rising upon his hind
legs, threw down the Tartar, and fell upon him.
In this interval the poor Chinese
came in who had lost the camel, but he had no weapon;
however, seeing the Tartar down, and his horse fallen
upon him, away he runs to him, and seizing upon an
ugly weapon he had by his side, something like a pole-axe,
he wrenched it from him, and made shift to knock his
Tartarian brains out with it. But my old man
had the third Tartar to deal with still; and seeing
he did not fly, as he expected, nor come on to fight
him, as he apprehended, but stood stock still, the
old man stood still too, and fell to work with his
tackle to charge his pistol again: but as soon
as the Tartar saw the pistol away he scoured, and
left my pilot, my champion I called him afterwards,
a complete victory.
By this time I was a little recovered.
I thought, when I first began to wake, that I had
been in a sweet sleep; but, as I said above, I wondered
where I was, how I came upon the ground, and what
was the matter. A few moments after, as sense
returned, I felt pain, though I did not know where;
so I clapped my hand to my head, and took it away
bloody; then I felt my head ache: and in a moment
memory returned, and everything was present to me again.
I jumped upon my feet instantly, and got hold of
my sword, but no enemies were in view: I found
a Tartar lying dead, and his horse standing very quietly
by him; and, looking further, I saw my deliverer, who
had been to see what the Chinese had done, coming back
with his hanger in his hand. The old man, seeing
me on my feet, came running to me, and joyfully embraced
me, being afraid before that I had been killed.
Seeing me bloody, he would see how I was hurt; but
it was not much, only what we call a broken head; neither
did I afterwards find any great inconvenience from
the blow, for it was well again in two or three days.
We made no great gain, however, by
this victory, for we lost a camel and gained a horse.
I paid for the lost camel, and sent for another;
but I did not go to fetch it myself: I had had
enough of that.
The city of Naum, which we were approaching,
is a frontier of the Chinese empire, and is fortified
in their fashion. We wanted, as I have said,
above two days’ journey of this city when messengers
were sent express to every part of the road to tell
all travellers and caravans to halt till they had
a guard sent for them; for that an unusual body of
Tartars, making ten thousand in all, had appeared
in the way, about thirty miles beyond the city.
This was very bad news to travellers:
however, it was carefully done of the governor, and
we were very glad to hear we should have a guard.
Accordingly, two days after, we had two hundred soldiers
sent us from a garrison of the Chinese on our left,
and three hundred more from the city of Naum, and
with these we advanced boldly. The three hundred
soldiers from Naum marched in our front, the two hundred
in our rear, and our men on each side of our camels,
with our baggage and the whole caravan in the centre;
in this order, and well prepared for battle, we thought
ourselves a match for the whole ten thousand Mogul
Tartars, if they had appeared; but the next day, when
they did appear, it was quite another thing.