The greater weight the anxieties and
perplexities of these things were to our thoughts
while we were at sea, the greater was our satisfaction
when we saw ourselves on shore; and my partner told
me he dreamed that he had a very heavy load upon his
back, which he was to carry up a hill, and found that
he was not able to stand longer under it; but that
the Portuguese pilot came and took it off his back,
and the hill disappeared, the ground before him appearing
all smooth and plain: and truly it was so; they
were all like men who had a load taken off their backs.
For my part I had a weight taken off from my heart
that it was not able any longer to bear; and as I
said above we resolved to go no more to sea in that
ship. When we came on shore, the old pilot, who
was now our friend, got us a lodging, together with
a warehouse for our goods; it was a little hut, with
a larger house adjoining to it, built and also palisadoed
round with canes, to keep out pilferers, of which there
were not a few in that country: however, the
magistrates allowed us a little guard, and we had
a soldier with a kind of half-pike, who stood sentinel
at our door, to whom we allowed a pint of rice and
a piece of money about the value of three-pence per
day, so that our goods were kept very safe.
The fair or mart usually kept at this
place had been over some time; however, we found that
there were three or four junks in the river, and two
ships from Japan, with goods which they had bought
in China, and were not gone away, having some Japanese
merchants on shore.
The first thing our old Portuguese
pilot did for us was to get us acquainted with three
missionary Romish priests who were in the town, and
who had been there some time converting the people
to Christianity; but we thought they made but poor
work of it, and made them but sorry Christians when
they had done. One of these was a Frenchman,
whom they called Father Simon; another was a Portuguese;
and a third a Genoese. Father Simon was courteous,
and very agreeable company; but the other two were
more reserved, seemed rigid and austere, and applied
seriously to the work they came about, viz. to
talk with and insinuate themselves among the inhabitants
wherever they had opportunity. We often ate and
drank with those men; and though I must confess the
conversion, as they call it, of the Chinese to Christianity
is so far from the true conversion required to bring
heathen people to the faith of Christ, that it seems
to amount to little more than letting them know the
name of Christ, and say some prayers to the Virgin
Mary and her Son, in a tongue which they understood
not, and to cross themselves, and the like; yet it
must be confessed that the religionists, whom we call
missionaries, have a firm belief that these people
will be saved, and that they are the instruments of
it; and on this account they undergo not only the fatigue
of the voyage, and the hazards of living in such places,
but oftentimes death itself, and the most violent
tortures, for the sake of this work.
Father Simon was appointed, it seems,
by order of the chief of the mission, to go up to
Pekin, and waited only for another priest, who was
ordered to come to him from Macao, to go along with
him. We scarce ever met together but he was
inviting me to go that journey; telling me how he
would show me all the glorious things of that mighty
empire, and, among the rest, Pekin, the greatest city
in the world: “A city,” said he,
“that your London and our Paris put together
cannot be equal to.” But as I looked on
those things with different eyes from other men, so
I shall give my opinion of them in a few words, when
I come in the course of my travels to speak more particularly
of them.
Dining with Father Simon one day,
and being very merry together, I showed some little
inclination to go with him; and he pressed me and
my partner very hard to consent. “Why,
father,” says my partner, “should you
desire our company so much? you know we are heretics,
and you do not love us, nor cannot keep us company
with any pleasure.”—“Oh,”
says he, “you may perhaps be good Catholics
in time; my business here is to convert heathens, and
who knows but I may convert you too?”—“Very
well, father,” said I, “so you will preach
to us all the way?”—“I will
not be troublesome to you,” says he; “our
religion does not divest us of good manners; besides,
we are here like countrymen; and so we are, compared
to the place we are in; and if you are Huguenots,
and I a Catholic, we may all be Christians at last;
at least, we are all gentlemen, and we may converse
so, without being uneasy to one another.”
I liked this part of his discourse very well, and
it began to put me in mind of my priest that I had
left in the Brazils; but Father Simon did not come
up to his character by a great deal; for though this
friar had no appearance of a criminal levity in him,
yet he had not that fund of Christian zeal, strict
piety, and sincere affection to religion that my other
good ecclesiastic had.
But to leave him a little, though
he never left us, nor solicited us to go with him;
we had something else before us at first, for we had
all this while our ship and our merchandise to dispose
of, and we began to be very doubtful what we should
do, for we were now in a place of very little business.
Once I was about to venture to sail for the river
of Kilam, and the city of Nankin; but Providence seemed
now more visibly, as I thought, than ever to concern
itself in our affairs; and I was encouraged, from
this very time, to think I should, one way or other,
get out of this entangled circumstance, and be brought
home to my own country again, though I had not the
least view of the manner. Providence, I say,
began here to clear up our way a little; and the first
thing that offered was, that our old Portuguese pilot
brought a Japan merchant to us, who inquired what
goods we had: and, in the first place, he bought
all our opium, and gave us a very good price for it,
paying us in gold by weight, some in small pieces
of their own coin, and some in small wedges, of about
ten or twelves ounces each. While we were dealing
with him for our opium, it came into my head that he
might perhaps deal for the ship too, and I ordered
the interpreter to propose it to him. He shrunk
up his shoulders at it when it was first proposed
to him; but in a few days after he came to me, with
one of the missionary priests for his interpreter,
and told me he had a proposal to make to me, which
was this: he had bought a great quantity of
our goods, when he had no thoughts of proposals made
to him of buying the ship; and that, therefore, he
had not money to pay for the ship: but if I
would let the same men who were in the ship navigate
her, he would hire the ship to go to Japan; and would
send them from thence to the Philippine Islands with
another loading, which he would pay the freight of
before they went from Japan: and that at their
return he would buy the ship. I began to listen
to his proposal, and so eager did my head still run
upon rambling, that I could not but begin to entertain
a notion of going myself with him, and so to set sail
from the Philippine Islands away to the South Seas;
accordingly, I asked the Japanese merchant if he would
not hire us to the Philippine Islands and discharge
us there. He said No, he could not do that,
for then he could not have the return of his cargo;
but he would discharge us in Japan, at the ship’s
return. Well, still I was for taking him at that
proposal, and going myself; but my partner, wiser than
myself, persuaded me from it, representing the dangers,
as well of the seas as of the Japanese, who are a
false, cruel, and treacherous people; likewise those
of the Spaniards at the Philippines, more false, cruel,
and treacherous than they.
But to bring this long turn of our
affairs to a conclusion; the first thing we had to
do was to consult with the captain of the ship, and
with his men, and know if they were willing to go to
Japan. While I was doing this, the young man
whom my nephew had left with me as my companion came
up, and told me that he thought that voyage promised
very fair, and that there was a great prospect of
advantage, and he would be very glad if I undertook
it; but that if I would not, and would give him leave,
he would go as a merchant, or as I pleased to order
him; that if ever he came to England, and I was there
and alive, he would render me a faithful account of
his success, which should be as much mine as I pleased.
I was loath to part with him; but considering the prospect
of advantage, which really was considerable, and that
he was a young fellow likely to do well in it, I inclined
to let him go; but I told him I would consult my partner,
and give him an answer the next day. I discoursed
about it with my partner, who thereupon made a most
generous offer: “You know it has been an
unlucky ship,” said he, “and we both resolve
not to go to sea in it again; if your steward”
(so he called my man) “will venture the voyage,
I will leave my share of the vessel to him, and let
him make the best of it; and if we live to meet in
England, and he meets with success abroad, he shall
account for one half of the profits of the ship’s
freight to us; the other shall be his own.”
If my partner, who was no way concerned
with my young man, made him such an offer, I could
not do less than offer him the same; and all the ship’s
company being willing to go with him, we made over
half the ship to him in property, and took a writing
from him, obliging him to account for the other, and
away he went to Japan. The Japan merchant proved
a very punctual, honest man to him: protected
him at Japan, and got him a licence to come on shore,
which the Europeans in general have not lately obtained.
He paid him his freight very punctually; sent him
to the Philippines loaded with Japan and China wares,
and a supercargo of their own, who, trafficking with
the Spaniards, brought back European goods again,
and a great quantity of spices; and there he was not
only paid his freight very well, and at a very good
price, but not being willing to sell the ship, then
the merchant furnished him goods on his own account;
and with some money, and some spices of his own which
he brought with him, he went back to the Manillas,
where he sold his cargo very well. Here, having
made a good acquaintance at Manilla, he got his ship
made a free ship, and the governor of Manilla hired
him to go to Acapulco, on the coast of America, and
gave him a licence to land there, and to travel to
Mexico, and to pass in any Spanish ship to Europe
with all his men. He made the voyage to Acapulco
very happily, and there he sold his ship: and
having there also obtained allowance to travel by
land to Porto Bello, he found means to get to Jamaica,
with all his treasure, and about eight years after
came to England exceeding rich.
But to return to our particular affairs,
being now to part with the ship and ship’s company,
it came before us, of course, to consider what recompense
we should give to the two men that gave us such timely
notice of the design against us in the river Cambodia.
The truth was, they had done us a very considerable
service, and deserved well at our hands; though, by
the way, they were a couple of rogues, too; for, as
they believed the story of our being pirates, and
that we had really run away with the ship, they came
down to us, not only to betray the design that was
formed against us, but to go to sea with us as pirates.
One of them confessed afterwards that nothing else
but the hopes of going a-roguing brought him to do
it: however, the service they did us was not
the less, and therefore, as I had promised to be grateful
to them, I first ordered the money to be paid them
which they said was due to them on board their respective
ships: over and above that, I gave each of them
a small sum of money in gold, which contented them
very well. I then made the Englishman gunner
in the ship, the gunner being now made second mate
and purser; the Dutchman I made boatswain; so they
were both very well pleased, and proved very serviceable,
being both able seamen, and very stout fellows.
We were now on shore in China; if
I thought myself banished, and remote from my own
country at Bengal, where I had many ways to get home
for my money, what could I think of myself now, when
I was about a thousand leagues farther off from home,
and destitute of all manner of prospect of return?
All we had for it was this: that in about four
months’ time there was to be another fair at
the place where we were, and then we might be able
to purchase various manufactures of the country, and
withal might possibly find some Chinese junks from
Tonquin for sail, that would carry us and our goods
whither we pleased. This I liked very well, and
resolved to wait; besides, as our particular persons
were not obnoxious, so if any English or Dutch ships
came thither, perhaps we might have an opportunity
to load our goods, and get passage to some other place
in India nearer home. Upon these hopes we resolved
to continue here; but, to divert ourselves, we took
two or three journeys into the country.
First, we went ten days’ journey
to Nankin, a city well worth seeing; they say it has
a million of people in it: it is regularly built,
and the streets are all straight, and cross one another
in direct lines. But when I come to compare
the miserable people of these countries with ours,
their fabrics, their manner of living, their government,
their religion, their wealth, and their glory, as
some call it, I must confess that I scarcely think
it worth my while to mention them here. We wonder
at the grandeur, the riches, the pomp, the ceremonies,
the government, the manufactures, the commerce, and
conduct of these people; not that there is really any
matter for wonder, but because, having a true notion
of the barbarity of those countries, the rudeness
and the ignorance that prevail there, we do not expect
to find any such thing so far off. Otherwise,
what are their buildings to the palaces and royal
buildings of Europe? What their trade to the
universal commerce of England, Holland, France, and
Spain? What are their cities to ours, for wealth,
strength, gaiety of apparel, rich furniture, and infinite
variety? What are their ports, supplied with
a few junks and barks, to our navigation, our merchant
fleets, our large and powerful navies? Our city
of London has more trade than half their mighty empire:
one English, Dutch, or French man-of-war of eighty
guns would be able to fight almost all the shipping
belonging to China: but the greatness of their
wealth, their trade, the power of their government,
and the strength of their armies, may be a little
surprising to us, because, as I have said, considering
them as a barbarous nation of pagans, little better
than savages, we did not expect such things among
them. But all the forces of their empire, though
they were to bring two millions of men into the field
together, would be able to do nothing but ruin the
country and starve themselves; a million of their
foot could not stand before one embattled body of
our infantry, posted so as not to be surrounded, though
they were not to be one to twenty in number; nay,
I do not boast if I say that thirty thousand German
or English foot, and ten thousand horse, well managed,
could defeat all the forces of China. Nor is
there a fortified town in China that could hold out
one month against the batteries and attacks of an European
army. They have firearms, it is true, but they
are awkward and uncertain in their going off; and
their powder has but little strength. Their
armies are badly disciplined, and want skill to attack,
or temper to retreat; and therefore, I must confess,
it seemed strange to me, when I came home, and heard
our people say such fine things of the power, glory,
magnificence, and trade of the Chinese; because, as
far as I saw, they appeared to be a contemptible herd
or crowd of ignorant, sordid slaves, subjected to
a government qualified only to rule such a people;
and were not its distance inconceivably, great from
Muscovy, and that empire in a manner as rude, impotent,
and ill governed as they, the Czar of Muscovy might
with ease drive them all out of their country, and
conquer them in one campaign; and had the Czar (who
is now a growing prince) fallen this way, instead
of attacking the warlike Swedes, and equally improved
himself in the art of war, as they say he has done;
and if none of the powers of Europe had envied or
interrupted him, he might by this time have been Emperor
of China, instead of being beaten by the King of Sweden
at Narva, when the latter was not one to six in number.
As their strength and their grandeur,
so their navigation, commerce, and husbandry are very
imperfect, compared to the same things in Europe;
also, in their knowledge, their learning, and in their
skill in the sciences, they are either very awkward
or defective, though they have globes or spheres,
and a smattering of the mathematics, and think they
know more than all the world besides. But they
know little of the motions of the heavenly bodies;
and so grossly and absurdly ignorant are their common
people, that when the sun is eclipsed, they think a
great dragon has assaulted it, and is going to run
away with it; and they fall a clattering with all
the drums and kettles in the country, to fright the
monster away, just as we do to hive a swarm of bees!
As this is the only excursion of the
kind which I have made in all the accounts I have
given of my travels, so I shall make no more such.
It is none of my business, nor any part of my design;
but to give an account of my own adventures through
a life of inimitable wanderings, and a long variety
of changes, which, perhaps, few that come after me
will have heard the like of: I shall, therefore,
say very little of all the mighty places, desert countries,
and numerous people I have yet to pass through, more
than relates to my own story, and which my concern
among them will make necessary.
I was now, as near as I can compute,
in the heart of China, about thirty degrees north
of the line, for we were returned from Nankin.
I had indeed a mind to see the city of Pekin, which
I had heard so much of, and Father Simon importuned
me daily to do it. At length his time of going
away being set, and the other missionary who was to
go with him being arrived from Macao, it was necessary
that we should resolve either to go or not; so I referred
it to my partner, and left it wholly to his choice,
who at length resolved it in the affirmative, and
we prepared for our journey. We set out with
very good advantage as to finding the way; for we
got leave to travel in the retinue of one of their
mandarins, a kind of viceroy or principal magistrate
in the province where they reside, and who take great
state upon them, travelling with great attendance,
and great homage from the people, who are sometimes
greatly impoverished by them, being obliged to furnish
provisions for them and all their attendants in their
journeys. I particularly observed in our travelling
with his baggage, that though we received sufficient
provisions both for ourselves and our horses from
the country, as belonging to the mandarin, yet we were
obliged to pay for everything we had, after the market
price of the country, and the mandarin’s steward
collected it duly from us. Thus our travelling
in the retinue of the mandarin, though it was a great
act of kindness, was not such a mighty favour to us,
but was a great advantage to him, considering there
were above thirty other people travelled in the same
manner besides us, under the protection of his retinue;
for the country furnished all the provisions for nothing
to him, and yet he took our money for them.
We were twenty-five days travelling
to Pekin, through a country exceeding populous, but
I think badly cultivated; the husbandry, the economy,
and the way of living miserable, though they boast
so much of the industry of the people: I say
miserable, if compared with our own, but not so to
these poor wretches, who know no other. The pride
of the poor people is infinitely great, and exceeded
by nothing but their poverty, in some parts, which
adds to that which I call their misery; and I must
needs think the savages of America live much more
happy than the poorer sort of these, because as they
have nothing, so they desire nothing; whereas these
are proud and insolent and in the main are in many
parts mere beggars and drudges. Their ostentation
is inexpressible; and, if they can, they love to keep
multitudes of servants or slaves, which is to the
last degree ridiculous, as well as their contempt of
all the world but themselves.
I must confess I travelled more pleasantly
afterwards in the deserts and vast wildernesses of
Grand Tartary than here, and yet the roads here are
well paved and well kept, and very convenient for
travellers; but nothing was more awkward to me than
to see such a haughty, imperious, insolent people,
in the midst of the grossest simplicity and ignorance;
and my friend Father Simon and I used to be very merry
upon these occasions, to see their beggarly pride.
For example, coming by the house of a country gentleman,
as Father Simon called him, about ten leagues off
the city of Nankin, we had first of all the honour
to ride with the master of the house about two miles;
the state he rode in was a perfect Don Quixotism, being
a mixture of pomp and poverty. His habit was
very proper for a merry-andrew, being a dirty calico,
with hanging sleeves, tassels, and cuts and slashes
almost on every side: it covered a taffety vest,
so greasy as to testify that his honour must be a most
exquisite sloven. His horse was a poor, starved,
hobbling creature, and two slaves followed him on
foot to drive the poor creature along; he had a whip
in his hand, and he belaboured the beast as fast about
the head as his slaves did about the tail; and thus
he rode by us, with about ten or twelve servants, going
from the city to his country seat, about half a league
before us. We travelled on gently, but this
figure of a gentleman rode away before us; and as
we stopped at a village about an hour to refresh us,
when we came by the country seat of this great man,
we saw him in a little place before his door, eating
a repast. It was a kind of garden, but he was
easy to be seen; and we were given to understand that
the more we looked at him the better he would be pleased.
He sat under a tree, something like the palmetto,
which effectually shaded him over the head, and on
the south side; but under the tree was placed a large
umbrella, which made that part look well enough.
He sat lolling back in a great elbow-chair, being
a heavy corpulent man, and had his meat brought him
by two women slaves. He had two more, one of
whom fed the squire with a spoon, and the other held
the dish with one hand, and scraped off what he let
fall upon his worship’s beard and taffety vest.
Leaving the poor wretch to please
himself with our looking at him, as if we admired
his idle pomp, we pursued our journey. Father
Simon had the curiosity to stay to inform himself what
dainties the country justice had to feed on in all
his state, which he had the honour to taste of, and
which was, I think, a mess of boiled rice, with a
great piece of garlic in it, and a little bag filled
with green pepper, and another plant which they have
there, something like our ginger, but smelling like
musk, and tasting like mustard; all this was put together,
and a small piece of lean mutton boiled in it, and
this was his worship’s repast. Four or
five servants more attended at a distance, who we
supposed were to eat of the same after their master.
As for our mandarin with whom we travelled, he was
respected as a king, surrounded always with his gentlemen,
and attended in all his appearances with such pomp,
that I saw little of him but at a distance.
I observed that there was not a horse in his retinue
but that our carrier’s packhorses in England
seemed to me to look much better; though it was hard
to judge rightly, for they were so covered with equipage,
mantles, trappings, &c., that we could scarce see
anything but their feet and their heads as they went
along.
I was now light-hearted, and all my
late trouble and perplexity being over, I had no anxious
thoughts about me, which made this journey the pleasanter
to me; in which no ill accident attended me, only
in passing or fording a small river, my horse fell
and made me free of the country, as they call it—that
is to say, threw me in. The place was not deep,
but it wetted me all over. I mention it because
it spoiled my pocket-book, wherein I had set down the
names of several people and places which I had occasion
to remember, and which not taking due care of, the
leaves rotted, and the words were never after to be
read.
At length we arrived at Pekin.
I had nobody with me but the youth whom my nephew
had given me to attend me as a servant and who proved
very trusty and diligent; and my partner had nobody
with him but one servant, who was a kinsman.
As for the Portuguese pilot, he being desirous to
see the court, we bore his charges for his company,
and for our use of him as an interpreter, for he understood
the language of the country, and spoke good French
and a little English. Indeed, this old man was
most useful to us everywhere; for we had not been
above a week at Pekin, when he came laughing.
“Ah, Seignior Inglese,” says he, “I
have something to tell will make your heart glad.”—“My
heart glad,” says I; “what can that be?
I don’t know anything in this country can either
give me joy or grief to any great degree.”—“Yes,
yes,” said the old man, in broken English, “make
you glad, me sorry.”—“Why,”
said I, “will it make you sorry?”—“Because,”
said he, “you have brought me here twenty-five
days’ journey, and will leave me to go back alone;
and which way shall I get to my port afterwards, without
a ship, without a horse, without pecune?” so
he called money, being his broken Latin, of which
he had abundance to make us merry with. In short,
he told us there was a great caravan of Muscovite and
Polish merchants in the city, preparing to set out
on their journey by land to Muscovy, within four or
five weeks; and he was sure we would take the opportunity
to go with them, and leave him behind, to go back
alone.
I confess I was greatly surprised
with this good news, and had scarce power to speak
to him for some time; but at last I said to him, “How
do you know this? are you sure it is true?”—“Yes,”
says he; “I met this morning in the street an
old acquaintance of mine, an Armenian, who is among
them. He came last from Astrakhan, and was designed
to go to Tonquin, where I formerly knew him, but has
altered his mind, and is now resolved to go with the
caravan to Moscow, and so down the river Volga to
Astrakhan.”—“Well, Seignior,”
says I, “do not be uneasy about being left to
go back alone; if this be a method for my return to
England, it shall be your fault if you go back to
Macao at all.” We then went to consult
together what was to be done; and I asked my partner
what he thought of the pilot’s news, and whether
it would suit with his affairs? He told me he
would do just as I would; for he had settled all his
affairs so well at Bengal, and left his effects in
such good hands, that as we had made a good voyage,
if he could invest it in China silks, wrought and
raw, he would be content to go to England, and then
make a voyage back to Bengal by the Company’s
ships.
Having resolved upon this, we agreed
that if our Portuguese pilot would go with us, we
would bear his charges to Moscow, or to England, if
he pleased; nor, indeed, were we to be esteemed over-generous
in that either, if we had not rewarded him further,
the service he had done us being really worth more
than that; for he had not only been a pilot to us
at sea, but he had been like a broker for us on shore;
and his procuring for us a Japan merchant was some
hundreds of pounds in our pockets. So, being
willing to gratify him, which was but doing him justice,
and very willing also to have him with us besides,
for he was a most necessary man on all occasions,
we agreed to give him a quantity of coined gold, which,
as I computed it, was worth one hundred and seventy-five
pounds sterling, between us, and to bear all his charges,
both for himself and horse, except only a horse to
carry his goods. Having settled this between
ourselves, we called him to let him know what we had
resolved. I told him he had complained of our
being willing to let him go back alone, and I was
now about to tell him we designed he should not go
back at all. That as we had resolved to go to
Europe with the caravan, we were very willing he should
go with us; and that we called him to know his mind.
He shook his head and said it was a long journey,
and that he had no pecune to carry him thither, or
to subsist himself when he came there. We told
him we believed it was so, and therefore we had resolved
to do something for him that should let him see how
sensible we were of the service he had done us, and
also how agreeable he was to us: and then I told
him what we had resolved to give him here, which he
might lay out as we would do our own; and that as
for his charges, if he would go with us we would set
him safe on shore (life and casualties excepted),
either in Muscovy or England, as he would choose, at
our own charge, except only the carriage of his goods.
He received the proposal like a man transported,
and told us he would go with us over all the whole
world; and so we all prepared for our journey.
However, as it was with us, so it was with the other
merchants: they had many things to do, and instead
of being ready in five weeks, it was four months and
some days before all things were got together.