We steamed up into New York Harbor
late one afternoon in spring. The last efforts
of the sun were being put forth in turning the waters
of the bay to glistening gold; the green islands on
either side, in spite of their warlike mountings,
looked calm and peaceful; the buildings of the town
shone out in a reflected light which gave the city
an air of enchantment; and, truly, it is an enchanted
spot. New York City is the most fatally fascinating
thing in America. She sits like a great witch
at the gate of the country, showing her alluring white
face and hiding her crooked hands and feet under the
folds of her wide garments—constantly enticing
thousands from far within, and tempting those who
come from across the seas to go no farther. And
all these become the victims of her caprice.
Some she at once crushes beneath her cruel feet; others
she condemns to a fate like that of galley slaves;
a few she favors and fondles, riding them high on the
bubbles of fortune; then with a sudden breath she
blows the bubbles out and laughs mockingly as she
watches them fall.
Twice I had passed through it, but
this was really my first visit to New York; and as
I walked about that evening, I began to feel the dread
power of the city; the crowds, the lights, the excitement,
the gaiety, and all its subtler stimulating influences
began to take effect upon me. My blood ran quicker
and I felt that I was just beginning to live.
To some natures this stimulant of life in a great
city becomes a thing as binding and necessary as opium
is to one addicted to the habit. It becomes their
breath of life; they cannot exist outside of it; rather
than be deprived of it they are content to suffer
hunger, want, pain, and misery; they would not exchange
even a ragged and wretched condition among the great
crowd for any degree of comfort away from it.
As soon as we landed, four of us went
directly to a lodging house in Twenty-seventh Street,
just west of Sixth Avenue. The house was run
by a short, stout mulatto man, who was exceedingly
talkative and inquisitive. In fifteen minutes
he not only knew the history of the past life of each
one of us, but had a clearer idea of what we intended
to do in the future than we ourselves. He sought
this information so much with an air of being very
particular as to whom he admitted into his house that
we tremblingly answered every question that he asked.
When we had become located, we went out and got supper,
then walked around until about ten o’clock.
At that hour we met a couple of young fellows who
lived in New York and were known to one of the members
of our party. It was suggested we go to a certain
place which was known by the proprietor’s name.
We turned into one of the cross streets and mounted
the stoop of a house in about the middle of a block
between Sixth and Seventh Avenues. One of the
young men whom we had met rang a bell, and a man on
the inside cracked the door a couple of inches; then
opened it and let us in. We found ourselves in
the hallway of what had once been a residence.
The front parlor had been converted into a bar, and
a half-dozen or so well-dressed men were in the room.
We went in and after a general introduction had several
rounds of beer. In the back parlor a crowd was
sitting and standing around the walls of the room
watching an exciting and noisy game of pool.
I walked back and joined this crowd to watch the game,
and principally to get away from the drinking party.
The game was really interesting, the players being
quite expert, and the excitement was heightened by
the bets which were being made on the result.
At times the antics and remarks of both players and
spectators were amusing. When, at a critical
point, a player missed a shot, he was deluged, by
those financially interested in his making it, with
a flood of epithets synonymous with “chump”;
While from the others he would be jeered by such remarks
as “Nigger, dat cue ain’t no hoe-handle.”
I noticed that among this class of colored men the
word “nigger” was freely used in about
the same sense as the word “fellow,” and
sometimes as a term of almost endearment; but I soon
learned that its use was positively and absolutely
prohibited to white men.
I stood watching this pool game until
I was called by my friends, who were still in the
bar-room, to go upstairs. On the second floor
there were two large rooms. From the hall I looked
into the one on the front. There was a large,
round table in the center, at which five or six men
were seated playing poker. The air and conduct
here were greatly in contrast to what I had just seen
in the pool-room; these men were evidently the aristocrats
of the place; they were well, perhaps a bit flashily,
dressed and spoke in low modulated voices, frequently
using the word “gentlemen”; in fact, they
seemed to be practicing a sort of Chesterfieldian
politeness towards each other. I was watching
these men with a great deal of interest and some degree
of admiration when I was again called by the members
of our party, and I followed them on to the back room.
There was a door-keeper at this room, and we were
admitted only after inspection. When we got inside,
I saw a crowd of men of all ages and kinds grouped
about an old billiard table, regarding some of whom,
in supposing them to be white, I made no mistake.
At first I did not know what these men were doing;
they were using terms that were strange to me.
I could hear only a confusion of voices exclaiming:
“Shoot the two!” “Shoot the four!”
“Fate me! Fate me!” “I’ve
got you fated!” “Twenty-five cents he don’t
turn!” This was the ancient and terribly fascinating
game of dice, popularly known as “craps.”
I myself had played pool in Jacksonville—it
is a favorite game among cigar makers—and
I had seen others play cards; but here was something
new. I edged my way in to the table and stood
between one of my new-found New York friends and a
tall, slender, black fellow, who was making side bets
while the dice were at the other end of the table.
My companion explained to me the principles of the
game; and they are so simple that they hardly need
to be explained twice. The dice came around the
table until they reached the man on the other side
of the tall, black fellow. He lost, and the latter
said: “Gimme the bones.” He threw
a dollar on the table and said: “Shoot
the dollar.” His style of play was so strenuous
that he had to be allowed plenty of room. He
shook the dice high above his head, and each time
he threw them on the table, he emitted a grunt such
as men give when they are putting forth physical exertion
with a rhythmic regularity. He frequently whirled
completely around on his heels, throwing the dice
the entire length of the table, and talking to them
as though they were trained animals. He appealed
to them in short singsong phrases. “Come,
dice,” he would say. “Little Phoebe,”
“Little Joe,” “’Way down yonder
in the cornfield.” Whether these mystic
incantations were efficacious or not I could not say,
but, at any rate, his luck was great, and he had what
gamblers term “nerve.” “Shoot
the dollar!” “Shoot the two!” “Shoot
the four!” “Shoot the eight!” came
from his lips as quickly as the dice turned to his
advantage. My companion asked me if I had ever
played. I told him no. He said that I ought
to try my luck: that everybody won at first.
The tall man at my side was waving his arms in the
air, exclaiming: “Shoot the sixteen!”
“Shoot the sixteen!” “Fate me!”
Whether it was my companion’s suggestion or
some latent dare-devil strain in my blood which suddenly
sprang into activity I do not know; but with a thrill
of excitement which went through my whole body I threw
a twenty-dollar bill on the table and said in a trembling
voice: “I fate you.”
I could feel that I had gained the
attention and respect of everybody in the room, every
eye was fixed on me, and the widespread question,
“Who is he?” went around. This was
gratifying to a certain sense of vanity of which I
have never been able to rid myself, and I felt that
it was worth the money even if I lost. The tall
man, with a whirl on his heels and a double grunt,
threw the dice; four was the number which turned up.
This is considered as a hard “point” to
make. He redoubled his contortions and his grunts
and his pleadings to the dice; but on his third or
fourth throw the fateful seven turned up, and I had
won. My companion and all my friends shouted to
me to follow up my luck. The fever was on me.
I seized the dice. My hands were so hot that
the bits of bone felt like pieces of ice. I shouted
as loudly as I could: “Shoot it all!”
but the blood was tingling so about my ears that I
could not hear my own voice. I was soon “fated.”
I threw the dice—sevens—I had
won. “Shoot it all!” I cried again.
There was a pause; the stake was more than one man
cared to or could cover. I was finally “fated”
by several men taking each a part of it. I then
threw the dice again. Seven. I had won.
“Shoot it all!” I shouted excitedly.
After a short delay I was “fated.”
Again I rolled the dice. Eleven. Again I
won. My friends now surrounded me and, much against
my inclination, forced me to take down all of the money
except five dollars. I tried my luck once more,
and threw some small “point” which failed
to make, and the dice passed on to the next man.
In less than three minutes I had won
more than two hundred dollars, a sum which afterwards
cost me dearly. I was the hero of the moment and
was soon surrounded by a group of men who expressed
admiration for my “nerve” and predicted
for me a brilliant future as a gambler. Although
at the time I had no thought of becoming a gambler,
I felt proud of my success. I felt a bit ashamed,
too, that I had allowed my friends to persuade me
to take down my money so soon. Another set of
men also got around me and begged me for twenty-five
or fifty cents to put them back into the game.
I gave each of them something. I saw that several
of them had on linen dusters, and as I looked about,
I noticed that there were perhaps a dozen men in the
room similarly clad. I asked the fellow who had
been my prompter at the dice table why they dressed
in such a manner. He told me that men who had
lost all the money and jewelry they possessed, frequently,
in an effort to recoup their losses, would gamble
away all their outer clothing and even their shoes;
and that the proprietor kept on hand a supply of linen
dusters for all who were so unfortunate. My informant
went on to say that sometimes a fellow would become
almost completely dressed and then, by a turn of the
dice, would be thrown back into a state of semi-nakedness.
Some of them were virtually prisoners and unable to
get into the streets for days at a time. They
ate at the lunch counter, where their credit was good
so long as they were fair gamblers and did not attempt
to jump their debts, and they slept around in chairs.
They importuned friends and winners to put them back
in the game, and kept at it until fortune again smiled
on them. I laughed heartily at this, not thinking
the day was coming which would find me in the same
ludicrous predicament.
On passing downstairs I was told that
the third and top floor of the house was occupied
by the proprietor. When we passed through the
bar, I treated everybody in the room—and
that was no small number, for eight or ten had followed
us down. Then our party went out. It was
now about half past twelve, but my nerves were at
such a tension that I could not endure the mere thought
of going to bed. I asked if there was no other
place to which we could go; our guides said yes, and
suggested that we go to the “Club.”
We went to Sixth Avenue, walked two blocks, and turned
to the west into another street. We stopped in
front of a house with three stories and a basement.
In the basement was a Chinese chop-suey restaurant.
There was a red lantern at the iron gate to the area
way, inside of which the Chinaman’s name was
printed. We went up the steps of the stoop, rang
the bell, and were admitted without any delay.
From the outside the house bore a rather gloomy aspect,
the windows being absolutely dark, but within, it was
a veritable house of mirth. When we had passed
through a small vestibule and reached the hallway,
we heard mingled sounds of music and laughter, the
clink of glasses, and the pop of bottles. We went
into the main room and I was little prepared for what
I saw. The brilliancy of the place, the display
of diamond rings, scarf-pins, ear-rings, and breast-pins,
the big rolls of money that were brought into evidence
when drinks were paid for, and the air of gaiety that
pervaded the place, all completely dazzled and dazed
me. I felt positively giddy, and it was several
minutes before I was able to make any clear and definite
observations.
We at length secured places at a table
in a corner of the room and, as soon as we could attract
the attention of one of the busy waiters, ordered
a round of drinks. When I had somewhat collected
my senses, I realized that in a large back room into
which the main room opened, there was a young fellow
singing a song, accompanied on the piano by a short,
thickset, dark man. After each verse he did some
dance steps, which brought forth great applause and
a shower of small coins at his feet. After the
singer had responded to a rousing encore, the stout
man at the piano began to run his fingers up and down
the keyboard. This he did in a manner which indicated
that he was master of a good deal of technique.
Then he began to play; and such playing! I stopped
talking to listen. It was music of a kind I had
never heard before. It was music that demanded
physical response, patting of the feet, drumming of
the fingers, or nodding of the head in time with the
beat. The barbaric harmonies, the audacious resolutions,
often consisting of an abrupt jump from one key to
another, the intricate rhythms in which the accents
fell in the most unexpected places, but in which the
beat was never lost, produced a most curious effect.
And, too, the player—the dexterity of his
left hand in making rapid octave runs and jumps was
little short of marvelous; and with his right hand
he frequently swept half the keyboard with clean-cut
chromatics which he fitted in so nicely as never to
fail to arouse in his listeners a sort of pleasant
surprise at the accomplishment of the feat.
This was ragtime music, then a novelty
in New York, and just growing to be a rage, which
has not yet subsided. It was originated in the
questionable resorts about Memphis and St. Louis by
Negro piano players who knew no more of the theory
of music than they did of the theory of the universe,
but were guided by natural musical instinct and talent.
It made its way to Chicago, where it was popular some
time before it reached New York. These players
often improvised crude and, at times, vulgar words
to fit the melodies. This was the beginning of
the ragtime song. Several of these improvisations
were taken down by white men, the words slightly altered,
and published under the names of the arrangers.
They sprang into immediate popularity and earned small
fortunes, of which the Negro originators got only a
few dollars. But I have learned that since that
time a number of colored men, of not only musical
talent, but training, are writing out their own melodies
and words and reaping the reward of their work.
I have learned also that they have a large number
of white imitators and adulterators.
American musicians, instead of investigating
ragtime, attempt to ignore it, or dismiss it with
a contemptuous word. But that has always been
the course of scholasticism in every branch of art.
Whatever new thing the people like is pooh-poohed;
whatever is popular is spoken of as not worth the
while. The fact is, nothing great or enduring,
especially in music, has ever sprung full-fledged and
unprecedented from the brain of any master; the best
that he gives to the world he gathers from the hearts
of the people, and runs it through the alembic of
his genius. In spite of the bans which musicians
and music teachers have placed upon it, the people
still demand and enjoy ragtime. One thing cannot
be denied; it is music which possesses at least one
strong element of greatness: it appeals universally;
not only the American, but the English, the French,
and even the German people find delight in it.
In fact, there is not a corner of the civilized world
in which it is not known, and this proves its originality;
for if it were an imitation, the people of Europe,
anyhow, would not have found it a novelty. Anyone
who doubts that there is a peculiar heel-tickling,
smile-provoking, joy-awakening charm in ragtime needs
only to hear a skillful performer play the genuine
article to be convinced. I believe that it has
its place as well as the music which draws from us
sighs and tears.
I became so interested in both the
music and the player that I left the table where I
was sitting, and made my way through the hall into
the back room, where I could see as well as hear.
I talked to the piano-player between the musical numbers
and found out that he was just a natural musician,
never having taken a lesson in his life. Not
only could he play almost anything he heard, but he
could accompany singers in songs he had never heard.
He had, by ear alone, composed some pieces, several
of which he played over for me; each of them was properly
proportioned and balanced. I began to wonder what
this man with such a lavish natural endowment would
have done had he been trained. Perhaps he wouldn’t
have done anything at all; he might have become, at
best, a mediocre imitator of the great masters in what
they have already done to a finish, or one of the
modern innovators who strive after originality by
seeing how cleverly they can dodge about through the
rules of harmony and at the same time avoid melody.
It is certain that he would not have been so delightful
as he was in ragtime.
I sat by, watching and listening to
this man until I was dragged away by my friends.
The place was now almost deserted; only a few stragglers
hung on, and they were all the, worse for drink.
My friends were well up in this class. We passed
into the street; the lamps were pale against the sky;
day was just breaking. We went home and got into
bed. I fell into a fitful sort of sleep, with
ragtime music ringing continually in my ears.