The Mission San Francisco de Assisi
stood at the head of a great valley about a league
from the Presidio and facing the eastern hills.
Behind it, yet not too close, for the priests were
ever on their guard against Indians more lustful of
loot than sal-vation, was a long irregular chain
of hills, break-ing into twin peaks on its highest
ridge, with a lone mountain outstanding. It
was an imposing but forbidding mass, as steep and
bare as the walls of a fortress; but in the distance,
north and south, as the range curved in a tapering
arc that gave the valley the appearance of a colossal
stadium, the outlines were soft in a haze of pale
color. The sheltered valley between the western
heights and the sand hills far down the bay where
it turned to the south, was green with wheat fields,
and a small herd of cattle grazed on the lower slopes.
The beauty of this superbly proportioned valley was
further enhanced by groves of oaks and bay trees,
and by a lagoon, communicating with an arm of the
bay, which the priests had named for their Lady of
Sorrows—Nuestra Senora de los Dolores.
The little sheet of water was almost round, very
green and set in a thicket of willows that were green,
too, in the springtime, and golden in summer.
Near its banks, or closer to the protecting Mission—on
whose land grant they were built—were the
com-fortable adobe homes of the few Spanish pioneers
that preferred the bracing north to the monotonous
warmth of the south. Some of these houses were
long and rambling, others built about a court; all
were surrounded by a high wall, enclosing a gar-den
where the Castilian roses grew even more lux-uriantly
than at the Presidio. The walls, like the houses,
were white, and on those of Don Juan Moraga, a cousin
of Dona Ignacia Arguello, the roses had been trained
to form a border along the top in a fashion that reminded
Rezanov of the pink edged walls of Fiesole.
The white red-tiled church and the
long line of rooms adjoining were built of adobe with
no effort at grandeur, but with a certain noble simplicity
of outline that harmonized not only with the lofty
re-serve of the hills but with the innocent hope
of creat-ing a soul in the lowest of human bipeds.
The Indians of San Francisco were as immedicable
as they were hideous; but the fathers belabored them
with sticks and heaven with prayer, and had so far
succeeded that if as yet they had sown piety no higher
than the knees, they had trained some twelve hundred
pairs of hands to useful service.
On the right was a graveyard, with
little in it as yet but rose trees; behind the church
and the many spacious rooms built for the consolation
of virtue in the wilderness was a large building surrounding
a court. Girls and young widows occupied the
cells on the north side, and the work rooms on the
east, while the youths, under the sharp eye of a lay
brother, were opposite. All lived a life of unwill-ing
industry: cleaning and combing wool, spinning,
weaving, manufacturing chocolate, grinding corn between
stones, making shoes, fashioning the simple garments
worn by priest and Indian. Between the main
group of buildings and the natural rampart of the
“San Bruno Mountains” was the Rancheria,
where the Indian families lived in eight long rows
of isolated huts.
In spite of vigilance an Indian escaped
now and again to the mountains, where he could lie
naked in the sun and curse the fetich of civilization.
As the Russians approached, a friar, with deer-skin
armor over his cassock, was tugging at a recalcitrant
mule, while a body-guard of four Indians stood ready
to attend him down the coast in search of an enviable
brother. The mule, as if in sympathy with the
fugitive, had planted his four feet in the earth and
lifted his voice in derision, while the young friar,
a recruit at the Mission, and far from enamored of
his task, strained at the rope, and an Indian pelted
the hindquarters with stones. Suddenly, the mule
flung out his heels, the enemy in the rear sprawled,
the rope flew loose, the beast with a loud bray fled
toward the willows of Dolores. But the young
priest was both agile and angry. With a flying
leap he reached the heaving back. The mule acknowl-edged
himself conquered. The body-guard trotted on
their own feet, and the party disappeared round a
bend of the hills.
Rezanov laughed heartily and even
the glum vis-age of Father Abella relaxed.
“It is a common sight, Excellency,”
he said. “We are thankful to have a younger
friar for such fatiguing work. Many a time have
I belabored stubborn mules and bestrode bucking mustangs
while searching for one of these ungrateful but no
doubt chosen creatures. It is the will of God,
and we make no complaint; but we are very willing,
Father Landaeta and I, that youth should cool its
ardor in so certain a fashion while we attend to the
more reasonable duties at home.”
They were dismounted at the door of
the church. The horses were led off by waiting
Indians. The soldiers on guard saluted and stepped
aside, and the party entered. Two priests in
handsome vest-ments stood before the altar, but the
long dim nave was empty. The Russians had been
told that a mass would be said in their honor, and
they marched down the church and bent their knees
with as much ceremony as had they been of the faith
of their hosts. When the short mass was over,
Rezanov bethought himself of Concha’s re-quest,
and whispering its purport to Father Abella was led
to a double iron hoop stuck with tallow dips in various
stages of petition. Rezanov lit a candle and
fastened it in an empty socket. Then with a
whimsical twist of his mouth he lit and adjusted another.
“No doubt she has some fervent
wish, like all children,” he thought apologetically.
“And whether this will help her to realize
it or not, at least it will be interesting to watch
her eyes—and mouth— when I tell
her. Will she melt, or flash, or receive my
offering at her shrine as a matter of course?
I’ll surprise her to-night in the middle of a
dance.”
He deposited a gold piece among the
candles on the table and followed Father Abella through
a side door. A corridor ran behind the long
line of rooms designed not only for priests but for
travellers al-ways sure of a welcome at these hospitable
Mis-sions. Father Abella shuffled ahead, halted
on the threshold of a large room, and ceremoniously
in-vited his guests to enter. Two other priests
stood before a table set with wine and delicate confec-tions,
their hands concealed in their wide brown sleeves,
but their unmatched physiognomies—the one
lean and jovial, the other plump and resigned—
alight with the same smile of welcome. Father
Abella mentioned them as his coadjutor Father Martin
Landaeta, and their guest Father Jose Uria of San
Jose; and then the three, with the scant rites of
genuine hospitality, applied themselves to the tick-ling
of palates long unused to ambrosial living. Re-sponding
ingenuously to the glow of their home-made wines,
they begged Rezanov to accept the Mis-sion, burn
it, plunder it, above all, to plan his own day.
“I hope that I am to see every
detail of your great work,” replied the diplomatic
guest of honor. “But at your own leisure.
Meanwhile, I beg that you will order one of your
Indians to bring in the little presents I venture
to offer as a token of my respect. You may have
heard that the presents of his Im-perial Majesty
were refused by the Mikado of Japan. I reserved
many of them for possible use in our own possessions,
particularly a piece of cloth of gold. This
I had intended for our church at New Archangel, but
finding the priests there more in need of punishment
than reward, I concluded to bring it here and offer
it as a manifest of my ad-miration for what the great
Franciscan Order of the Most Holy Church of Rome has
accomplished in the Californias. Have I been
too presump-tuous?”
The priests all wore the eager expressions
of chil-dren.
“Could we not see them first?”
asked Father Lan-daeta of his superior; and Father
Abella sent a ser-vant with an order to unload the
horse and bring in the presents.
Not a vestige of reserve lingered.
Priests and guests sat about the table eating and
drinking and chatting as were they old friends reunited,
and Rezanov extracted much of the information he de-sired.
The white population—“gente de razon”—
of Alta California, the peculiar province of the Franciscans—the
Jesuits having been the first to invade Baja California,
and with little success— numbered about
two thousand, the Christianized Indians about twenty
thousand. There were nine-teen Missions and
four Presidial districts—San Diego, close
to the border of Baja California, Santa Barbara, Monterey,
and San Francisco. Each Mis-sion had an immense
grant of land, or rancho— generally fifteen
miles square—for the raising of live stock,
agricultural necessities, and the grape. At the
Presidio of San Francisco there were some seventy
men, including invalids; and the number varied little
at the other military centres, Rezanov inferred, although
there was a natural effort to im-press the foreigner
with the casual inferiority of the armed force within
his ken. Cattle and horses increased so rapidly
that every few years there was a wholesale slaughter,
although the agricultural yield was enormous.
What the Missions were un-able to manufacture was
sent them from Mexico, and disposed of the small salaries
of the priests; the “Pious Fund of California”
in the city of Mexico being systematically embezzled.
The first Presidio and Mission were founded at San
Diego in July of 1769; the last at San Francisco in
Sep-tember and October of 1776.
Rezanov’s polite interest in
the virgin country was cut short by the entrance of
two Indians carry-ing heavy bundles, which they opened
upon the floor without further delay.
The cloth of gold was magnificent,
and the padres handled it as rapturously as had their
souls and fin-gers been of the sex symbolized while
exalted by the essence of maternity, in whose service
it would be anointed. Rezanov looked on with
an amused sigh, yet conscious of being more comprehending
and sympathetic than if he had journeyed straight
from Europe to California. It was not the first
time he had felt a passing gratitude for his uncomfort-able
but illuminating sojourn so close to the springs of
nature.
The priests were as well pleased with
the pieces of fine English cloth; and as their own
homespun robes rasped like hair shirts, they silently
but uni-formly congratulated themselves that the
color was brown.
Father Abella turned to Rezanov, his
saturnine features relaxed.
“We are deeply grateful to your
excellency, and our prayers shall follow you always.
Never have we received presents so timely and so
magnificent. And be sure we shall not forget
the brave officers that have brought you safely to
our distant shores, nor the distinguished scholar
who guards your ex-cellency’s health.”
He turned to Langsdorff and repeated himself in Latin.
The naturalist, whose sharp nose was always lifted
as if in protest against oversight and ready to pounce
upon and penetrate the least of mysteries, bowed with
his hand on his heart, and translated for the benefit
of the officers.
“Humph!” said Davidov
in Russian. “Much the Chamberlain will
care for the prayers of the Cath-olic Church if he
has to go home with his cargo. But he has a fine
opportunity here for the display of his diplomatic
talents. I fancy they will avail him more than
they did at Nagasaki—where I am told he
swore more than once when he should have kow-towed
and grinned.”
“I shouldn’t like to see
him grin,” replied Khos-tov, as they finally
started for the outbuildings. “If he could
go as far as that he would be the most terrible man
living. Were it not for the fire in him that
melts the iron just so often he would be crafty and
cruel instead of subtle and firm. He is a for-tunate
man! There were many fairies at his cradle!
I have always envied him, and now he is going to win
that beautiful Dona Concha. She will look at
none of us.”
“We will doubtless meet others
as beautiful at the ball to-night,” said Davidov
philosophically. “You are not in love with
a girl who has barely spoken to you, I suppose.”
“She had almost given me a rose
this morning, when Rezanov, who was flattering the
good Dona Ignacia with a moment of his attention,
turned too soon. I might have been air.
She looked straight through me. Such eyes!
Such teeth! Such a form! She is the most
enchanting girl I have ever seen. And he will
monopolize her without troubling to notice whether
we even admire her or not. Pray heaven he does
not break her heart.”
“He is honorable. One
must admit that, if he does fancy his own will was
a personal gift from the Almighty. Perhaps she
will break his. I never saw a more accomplished
flirt.”
“I know women,” replied
the shrewder Khos-tov. When men like Rezanov
make an effort to please—” He shrugged
his shoulders. “Some men are the offspring
of Mars and Venus and most of us are not. We
can at least be philosophers. Let us hope the
dinner will be excellent.”