MY APPRENTICESHIP
During the winter of 1865-66 I corresponded
with several of my old comrades in Texas. Beyond
a welcome which could not be questioned, little encouragement
was, with one exception, offered me among my old friends.
It was a period of uncertainty throughout the South,
yet a cheerful word reached me from an old soldier
crony living some distance west of Fort Worth on the
Brazos River. I had great confidence in my former
comrade, and he held out a hope, assuring me that
if I would come, in case nothing else offered, we could
take his ox teams the next winter and bring in a cargo
of buffalo robes. The plains to the westward
of Fort Griffin, he wrote, were swarming with buffalo,
and wages could be made in killing them for their hides.
This caught my fancy and I was impatient to start
at once; but the healing of my reopened wound was
slow, and it was March before I started. My brother
gave me a good horse and saddle, twenty-five dollars
in gold, and I started through a country unknown to
me personally. Southern Missouri had been in
sympathy with the Confederacy, and whatever I needed
while traveling through that section was mine for the
asking. I avoided the Indian Territory until
I reached Fort Smith, where I rested several days
with an old comrade, who gave me instructions and
routed me across the reservation of the Choctaw Indians,
and I reached Paris, Texas, without mishap.
I remember the feeling that I experienced
while being ferried across Red River. That watercourse
was the northern boundary of Texas, and while crossing
it I realized that I was leaving home and friends and
entering a country the very name of which to the outside
world was a synonym for crime and outlawry. Yet
some of as good men as ever it was my pleasure to
know came from that State, and undaunted I held a true
course for my destination. I was disappointed
on seeing Fort Worth, a straggling village on the
Trinity River, and, merely halting to feed my mount,
passed on. I had a splendid horse and averaged
thirty to forty miles a day when traveling, and early
in April reached the home of my friend in Paolo Pinto
County. The primitive valley of the Brazos was
enchanting, and the hospitality of the Edwards ranch
was typical of my own Virginia. George Edwards,
my crony, was a year my junior, a native of the State,
his parents having moved west from Mississippi the
year after Texas won her independence from Mexico.
The elder Edwards had moved to his present home some
fifteen years previous, carrying with him a stock
of horses and cattle, which had increased until in
1866 he was regarded as one of the substantial ranchmen
in the Brazos valley. The ranch house was a stanch
one, built at a time when defense was to be considered
as well as comfort, and was surrounded by fine cornfields.
The only drawback I could see there was that there
was no market for anything, nor was there any money
in the country. The consumption of such a ranch
made no impression on the increase of its herds, which
grew to maturity with no demand for the surplus.
I soon became impatient to do something.
George Edwards had likewise lost four years in the
army, and was as restless as myself. He knew
the country, but the only employment in sight for us
was as teamsters with outfits, freighting government
supplies to Fort Griffin. I should have jumped
at the chance of driving oxen, for I was anxious to
stay in the country, and suggested to George that
we ride up to Griffin. But the family interposed,
assuring us that there was no occasion for engaging
in such menial work, and we folded our arms obediently,
or rode the range under the pretense of looking after
the cattle. I might as well admit right here
that my anxiety to get away from the Edwards ranch
was fostered by the presence of several sisters of
my former comrade. Miss Gertrude was only four
years my junior, a very dangerous age, and in spite
of all resolutions to the contrary, I felt myself
constantly slipping. Nothing but my poverty and
the hopelessness of it kept me from falling desperately
in love.
But a temporary relief came during
the latter part of May. Reports came down the
river that a firm of drovers were putting up a herd
of cattle for delivery at Fort Sumner, New Mexico.
Their headquarters were at Belknap, a long day’s
ride above, on the Brazos; and immediately, on receipt
of the news, George and I saddled, and started up
the river. The elder Edwards was very anxious
to sell his beef-cattle and a surplus of cow-horses,
and we were commissioned to offer them to the drovers
at prevailing prices. On arriving at Belknap
we met the pioneer drover of Texas, Oliver Loving,
of the firm of Loving & Goodnight, but were disappointed
to learn that the offerings in making up the herd
were treble the drover’s requirements; neither
was there any chance to sell horses. But an application
for work met with more favor. Mr. Loving warned
us of the nature of the country, the dangers to be
encountered, all of which we waived, and were accordingly
employed at forty dollars a month in gold. The
herd was to start early in June. George Edwards
returned home to report, but I was immediately put
to work, as the junior member of the firm was then
out receiving cattle. They had established a
camp, and at the time of our employment were gathering
beef steers in Loving’s brand and holding the
herd as it arrived, so that I was initiated into my
duties at once.
I was allowed to retain my horse,
provided he did his share of the work. A mule
and three range horses were also allotted to me, and
I was cautioned about their care. There were
a number of saddle mules in the remuda, and Mr. Loving
explained that the route was through a dry country,
and that experience had taught him that a mule could
withstand thirst longer than a horse. I was a
new man in the country, and absorbed every word and
idea as a sponge does water. With the exception
of roping, I made a hand from the start. The outfit
treated me courteously, there was no concealment of
my past occupation, and I soon had the friendship
of every man in the camp. It was some little
time before I met the junior partner, Charlie Goodnight,
a strapping young fellow of about thirty, who had
served all through the war in the frontier battalion
of Texas Rangers. The Comanche Indians had been
a constant menace on the western frontier of the State,
and during the rebellion had allied themselves with
the Federal side, and harassed the settlements along
the border. It required a regiment of mounted
men to patrol the frontier from Red River to the coast,
as the Comanches claimed the whole western half of
the State as their hunting grounds.
Early in June the herd began to assume
its required numbers. George Edwards returned,
and we naturally became bunkies, sharing our blankets
and having the same guard on night-herd. The drovers
encouraged all the men employed to bring along their
firearms, and when we were ready to start the camp
looked like an arsenal. I had a six-shooter,
and my bunkie brought me a needle-gun from the ranch,
so that I felt armed for any emergency. Each
of the men had a rifle of some make or other, while
a few of them had as many as four pistols,—two
in their belts and two in saddle holsters. It
looked to me as if this was to be a military expedition,
and I began to wonder if I had not had enough war
the past few years, but kept quiet. The start
was made June 10, 1866, from the Brazos River, in what
is now Young County, the herd numbering twenty-two
hundred big beeves. A chuck-wagon, heavily loaded
with supplies and drawn by six yoke of fine oxen,
a remuda of eighty-five saddle horses and mules, together
with seventeen men, constituted the outfit. Fort
Sumner lay to the northwest, and I was mildly surprised
when the herd bore off to the southwest. This
was explained by young Goodnight, who was in charge
of the herd, saying that the only route then open or
known was on our present course to the Pecos River,
and thence up that stream to our destination.
Indian sign was noticed a few days
after starting. Goodnight and Loving both read
it as easily as if it had been print,—the
abandoned camps, the course of arrival and departure,
the number of horses, indicating who and what they
were, war or hunting parties—everything
apparently simple and plain as an alphabet to these
plainsmen. Around the camp-fire at night the
chronicle of the Comanche tribe for the last thirty
years was reviewed, and their overbearing and defiant
attitude towards the people of Texas was discussed,
not for my benefit, as it was common history.
Then for the first time I learned that the Comanches
had once mounted ten thousand warriors, had frequently
raided the country to the coast, carrying off horses
and white children, even dictating their own terms
of peace to the republic of Texas. At the last
council, called for the purpose of negotiating for
the return of captive white children in possession
of the Comanches, the assembly had witnessed a dramatic
termination. The same indignity had been offered
before, and borne by the whites, too weak to resist
the numbers of the Comanche tribe. In this latter
instance, one of the war chiefs, in spurning the remuneration
offered for the return of a certain white girl, haughtily
walked into the centre of the council, where an insult
could be seen by all. His act, a disgusting one,
was anticipated, as it was not the first time it had
been witnessed, when one of the Texans present drew
a six-shooter and killed the chief in the act.
The hatchet of the Comanche was instantly dug up,
and had not been buried at the time we were crossing
a country claimed by him as his hunting ground.
Yet these drovers seemed to have no
fear of an inferior race. We held our course
without a halt, scarcely a day passing without seeing
more or less fresh sign of Indians. After crossing
the South Fork of the Brazos, we were attacked one
morning just at dawn, the favorite hour of the Indian
for a surprise. Four men were on herd with the
cattle and one near by with the remuda, our night
horses all securely tied to the wagon wheels.
A feint attack was made on the commissary, but under
the leadership of Goodnight a majority of us scrambled
into our saddles and rode to the rescue of the remuda,
the chief objective of the surprise. Two of the
boys from the herd had joined the horse wrangler,
and on our arrival all three were wickedly throwing
lead at the circling Indians. The remuda was
running at the time, and as we cut through between
it and the savages we gave them the benefit of our
rifles and six-shooter in passing. The shots turned
the saddle stock back towards our camp and the mounted
braves continued on their course, not willing to try
issues with us, although they outnumbered us three
to one. A few arrows had imbedded themselves in
the ground around camp at the first assault, but once
our rifles were able to distinguish an object clearly,
the Indians kept well out of reach. The cattle
made a few surges, but once the remuda was safe, there
was an abundance of help in holding them, and they
quieted down before sunrise. The Comanches had
no use for cattle, except to kill and torture them,
as they preferred the flesh of the buffalo, and once
our saddle stock and the contents of the wagon were
denied them, they faded into the dips of the plain.
The journey was resumed without the
delay of an hour. Our first brush with the noble
red man served a good purpose, as we were doubly vigilant
thereafter whenever there was cause to expect an attack.
There was an abundance of water, as we followed up
the South Fork and its tributaries, passing through
Buffalo Gap, which was afterward a well-known landmark
on the Texas and Montana cattle trail. Passing
over the divide between the waters of the Brazos and
Concho, we struck the old Butterfield stage route,
running by way of Fort Concho to El Paso, Texas, on
the Rio Grande. This stage road was the original
Staked Plain, surveyed and located by General John
Pope in 1846. The route was originally marked
by stakes, until it became a thoroughfare, from which
the whole of northwest Texas afterward took its name.
There was a ninety-six mile dry drive between the
headwaters of the Concho and Horsehead Crossing on
the Pecos, and before attempting it we rested a few
days. Here Indians made a second attack on us,
and although as futile as the first, one of the horse
wranglers received an arrow in the shoulder.
In attempting to remove it the shaft separated from
the steel arrowhead, leaving the latter imbedded in
the lad’s shoulder. We were then one hundred
and twelve miles distant from Fort Concho, the nearest
point where medical relief might be expected.
The drovers were alarmed for the man’s welfare;
it was impossible to hold the herd longer, so the
young fellow volunteered to make the ride alone.
He was given the best horse in the remuda, and with
the falling of darkness started for Fort Concho.
I had the pleasure of meeting him afterward, as happy
as he was hale and hearty.
The start across the arid stretch
was made at noon. Every hoof had been thoroughly
watered in advance, and with the heat of summer on
us it promised to be an ordeal to man and beast.
But Loving had driven it before, and knew fully what
was before him as we trailed out under a noonday sun.
An evening halt was made for refreshing the inner man,
and as soon as darkness settled over us the herd was
again started. We were conscious of the presence
of Indians, and deceived them by leaving our camp-fire
burning, but holding our effects closely together
throughout the night, the remuda even mixing with the
cattle. When day broke we were fully thirty miles
from our noon camp of the day before, yet with the
exception of an hour’s rest there was never a
halt. A second day and night were spent in forging
ahead, though it is doubtful if we averaged much over
a mile an hour during that time. About fifteen
miles out from the Pecos we were due to enter a cañon
known as Castle Mountain Gap, some three or four miles
long, the exit of which was in sight of the river.
We were anxious to reach the entrance of this cañon
before darkness on the third day, as we could then
cut the cattle into bunches, the cliffs on either side
forming a lane. Our horses were as good as worthless
during the third day, but the saddle mules seemed
to stand grief nobly, and by dint of ceaseless effort
we reached the cañon and turned the cattle loose into
it. This was the turning-point in the dry drive.
That night two men took half the remuda and went through
to Horsehead Crossing, returning with them early the
next morning, and we once more had fresh mounts.
The herd had been nursed through the cañon during
the night, and although it was still twelve miles
to the river, I have always believed that those beeves
knew that water was at hand. They walked along
briskly; instead of the constant moaning, their heads
were erect, bawling loud and deep. The oxen drawing
the wagon held their chains taut, and the commissary
moved forward as if drawn by a fresh team. There
was no attempt to hold the herd compactly, and within
an hour after starting on our last lap the herd was
strung out three miles. The rear was finally
abandoned, and when half the distance was covered,
the drag cattle to the number of fully five hundred
turned out of the trail and struck direct for the
river. They had scented the water over five miles,
and as far as control was concerned the herd was as
good as abandoned, except that the water would hold
them.
Horsehead Crossing was named by General
Pope. There is a difference of opinion as to
the origin of the name, some contending that it was
due to the meanderings of the river, forming a horse’s
head, and others that the surveying party was surprised
by Indians and lost their stock. None of us had
slept for three nights, and the feeling of relief
on reaching the Pecos, shared alike by man and beast,
is indescribable. Unless one has endured such
a trial, only a faint idea of its hardships can be
fully imagined—the long hours of patient
travel at a snail’s pace, enveloped by clouds
of dust by day, and at night watching every shadow
for a lurking savage. I have since slept many
a time in the saddle, but in crossing that arid belt
the one consuming desire to reach the water ahead
benumbed every sense save watchfulness.
All the cattle reached the river before
the middle of the afternoon, covering a front of five
or six miles. The banks of the Pecos were abrupt,
there being fully one hundred and twenty-five feet
of deep water in the channel at the stage crossing.
Entrance to the ford consisted of a wagon-way, cut
through the banks, and the cattle crowded into the
river above and below, there being but one exit on
either side. Some miles above, the beeves had
found several passageways down to the water, but in
drifting up and down stream they missed these entrances
on returning. A rally was made late that afternoon
to rout the cattle out of the river-bed, one half the
outfit going above, the remainder working around Horsehead,
where the bulk of the herd had watered. I had
gone upstream with Goodnight, but before we reached
the upper end of the cattle fresh Indian sign was noticed.
There was enough broken country along the river to
shelter the redskins, but we kept in the open and
cautiously examined every brake within gunshot of
an entrance to the river. We succeeded in getting
all the animals out of the water before dark, with
the exception of one bunch, where the exit would require
the use of a mattock before the cattle could climb
it, and a few head that had bogged in the quicksand
below Horsehead Crossing. There was little danger
of a rise in the river, the loose contingent had a
dry sand-bar on which to rest, and as the Indians
had no use for them there was little danger of their
being molested before morning.
We fell back about a mile from the
river and camped for the night. Although we were
all dead for sleep, extra caution was taken to prevent
a surprise, either Goodnight or Loving remaining on
guard over the outfit, seeing that the men kept awake
on herd and that the guards changed promptly.
Charlie Goodnight owned a horse that he contended
could scent an Indian five hundred yards, and I have
never questioned the statement. He had used him
in the Ranger service. The horse by various means
would show his uneasiness in the immediate presence
of Indians, and once the following summer we moved
camp at midnight on account of the warnings of that
same horse. We had only a remuda with us at the
time, but another outfit encamped with us refused to
go, and they lost half their horses from an Indian
surprise the next morning and never recovered them.
I remember the ridicule which was expressed at our
moving camp on the warnings of a horse. “Injun-bit,”
“Man-afraid-of-his-horses,” were some of
the terms applied to us,—yet the practical
plainsman knew enough to take warning from his dumb
beast. Fear, no doubt, gives horses an unusual
sense of smell, and I have known them to detect the
presence of a bear, on a favorable wind, at an incredible
distance.
The night passed quietly, and early
the next morning we rode to recover the remainder
of the cattle. An effort was also made to rescue
the bogged ones. On approaching the river, we
found the beeves still resting quietly on the sand-bar.
But we had approached them at an angle, for directly
over head and across the river was a brake overgrown
with thick brush, a splendid cover in which Indians
might be lurking in the hope of ambushing any one
who attempted to drive out the beeves. Two men
were left with a single mattock to cut out and improve
the exit, while the rest of us reconnoitered the thickety
motte across the river. Goodnight was leery of
the thicket, and suggested firing a few shots into
it. We all had long-range guns, the distance
from bank to bank was over two hundred yards, and a
fusillade of shots was accordingly poured into the
motte. To my surprise we were rewarded by seeing
fully twenty Indians skulk out of the upper end of
the cover. Every man raised his sights and gave
them a parting volley, but a mesquite thicket, in
which their horses were secreted, soon sheltered them
and they fell back into the hills on the western side
of the river. With the coast thus cleared, half
a dozen of us rode down into the river-bed and drove
out the last contingent of about three hundred cattle.
Goodnight informed us that those Indians had no doubt
been watching us for days, and cautioned us never to
give a Comanche an advantage, advice which I never
forgot.
On our return every one of the bogged
cattle had been freed except two heavy beeves.
These animals were mired above the ford, in rather
deep water, and it was simply impossible to release
them. The drovers were anxious to cross the river
that afternoon, and a final effort was made to rescue
the two steers. The oxen were accordingly yoked,
and, with all the chain available, were driven into
the river and fastened on to the nearest one.
Three mounted drivers had charge of the team, and
when the word was given six yoke of cattle bowed their
necks and threw their weight against the yokes; but
the quicksand held the steer in spite of all their
efforts. The chain was freed from it, and the
oxen were brought around and made fast again, at an
angle and where the footing was better for the team.
Again the word was given, and as the six yoke swung
round, whips and ropes were plied amid a general shouting,
and the team brought out the steer, but with a broken
neck. There were no regrets, and our attention
was at once given to the other steer. The team
circled around, every available chain was brought
into use, in order to afford the oxen good footing
on a straight-away pull with the position in which
the beef lay bogged. The word was given for an
easy pull, the oxen barely stretched their chains,
and were stopped. Goodnight cautioned the drivers
that unless the pull was straight ahead another neck
would be broken. A second trial was made; the
oxen swung and weaved, the chains fairly cried, the
beef’s head went under water, but the team was
again checked in time to keep the steer from drowning.
After a breathing spell for oxen and victim, the call
was made for a rush. A driver was placed over
every yoke and the word given, and the oxen fell to
their knees in the struggle, whips cracked over their
backs, ropes were plied by every man in charge, and,
amid a din of profanity applied to the struggling
cattle, the team fell forward in a general collapse.
At first it was thought the chain had parted, but
as the latter came out of the water it held in its
iron grasp the horns and a portion of the skull of
the dying beef. Several of us rode out to the
victim, whose brain lay bare, still throbbing and
twitching with life. Rather than allow his remains
to pollute the river, we made a last pull at an angle,
and the dead beef was removed.
We bade Horsehead Crossing farewell
that afternoon and camped for the night above Dagger
Bend. Our route now lay to the northwest, or up
the Pecos River. We were then out twenty-one days
from Belknap, and although only half way to our destination,
the worst of it was considered over. There was
some travel up and down the Pecos valley, the route
was even then known as the Chisum trail, and afterward
extended as far north as Fort Logan in Colorado and
other government posts in Wyoming. This cattle
trace should never be confounded with the Chisholm
trail, first opened by a half-breed named Jesse Chisholm,
which ran from Red River Station on the northern boundary
of Texas to various points in Kansas. In cutting
across the bends of the Rio Pecos we secured water
each day for the herd, although we were frequently
under the necessity of sloping down the banks with
mattocks to let the cattle into the river. By
this method it often took us three or four hours to
water the herd. Until we neared Fort Sumner precaution
never relaxed against an Indian surprise. Their
sign was seen almost daily, but as there were weaker
outfits than ours passing through we escaped any further
molestation.
The methods of handling such a herd
were a constant surprise to me, as well as the schooling
of these plainsmen drovers. Goodnight had come
to the plains when a boy of ten, and was a thorough
master of their secrets. On one occasion, about
midway between Horsehead Crossing and our destination,
difficulty was encountered in finding an entrance to
the river on account of its abrupt banks. It was
late in the day, and in order to insure a quiet night
with the cattle water became an urgent necessity.
Our young foreman rode ahead and found a dry, sandy
creek, its bed fully fifty yards wide, but no water,
though the sand was damp. The herd was held back
until sunset, when the cattle were turned into the
creek bed and held as compactly as possible. The
heavy beeves naturally walked back and forth, up and
down, the sand just moist enough to aggravate them
after a day’s travel under a July sun.
But the tramping soon agitated the sands, and within
half an hour after the herd had entered the dry creek
the water arose in pools, and the cattle drank to
their hearts’ content. As dew falls at night,
moisture likewise rises in the earth, and with the
twilight hour, the agitation of the sands, and the
weight of the cattle, a spring was produced in the
desert waste.
Fort Sumner was a six-company post
and the agency of the Apaches and Navajos. These
two tribes numbered over nine thousand people, and
our herd was intended to supply the needs of the military
post and these Indians. The contract was held
by Patterson & Roberts, eligible by virtue of having
cast their fortunes with the victor in “the late
unpleasantness,” and otherwise fine men.
We reached the post on the 20th of July. There
was a delay of several days before the cattle were
accepted, but all passed the inspection with the exception
of about one hundred head. These were cattle
which had not recuperated from the dry drive.
Some few were footsore or thin in flesh, but taken
as a whole the delivery had every earmark of an honest
one. Fortunately this remnant was sold a few
days later to some Colorado men, and we were foot-loose
and free. Even the oxen had gone in on the main
delivery, and harnesses were accordingly bought, a
light tongue fitted to the wagon, and we were ready
to start homeward. Mules were substituted for
the oxen, and we averaged forty miles a day returning,
almost itching for an Indian attack, as we had supplied
ourselves with ammunition from the post sutler.
The trip had been a financial success (the government
was paying ten cents a pound for beef on foot), friendly
relations had been established with the holders of
the award, and we hastened home to gather and drive
another herd.