OUR FOREIGN CORRESPONDENT
London
Dearest People, Here I really sit
at a front window of the Bath Hotel, Piccadilly.
It’s not a fashionable place, but Uncle stopped
here years ago, and won’t go anywhere else.
However, we don’t mean to stay long, so it’s
no great matter. Oh, I can’t begin to
tell you how I enjoy it all! I never can, so
I’ll only give you bits out of my notebook,
for I’ve done nothing but sketch and scribble
since I started.
I sent a line from Halifax, when I
felt pretty miserable, but after that I got on delightfully,
seldom ill, on deck all day, with plenty of pleasant
people to amuse me. Everyone was very kind to
me, especially the officers. Don’t laugh,
Jo, gentlemen really are very necessary aboard ship,
to hold on to, or to wait upon one, and as they have
nothing to do, it’s a mercy to make them useful,
otherwise they would smoke themselves to death, I’m
afraid.
Aunt and Flo were poorly all the way,
and liked to be let alone, so when I had done what
I could for them, I went and enjoyed myself.
Such walks on deck, such sunsets, such splendid air
and waves! It was almost as exciting as riding
a fast horse, when we went rushing on so grandly.
I wish Beth could have come, it would have done her
so much good. As for Jo, she would have gone
up and sat on the maintop jib, or whatever the high
thing is called, made friends with the engineers,
and tooted on the captain’s speaking trumpet,
she’d have been in such a state of rapture.
It was all heavenly, but I was glad
to see the Irish coast, and found it very lovely,
so green and sunny, with brown cabins here and there,
ruins on some of the hills, and gentlemen’s
countryseats in the valleys, with deer feeding in the
parks. It was early in the morning, but I didn’t
regret getting up to see it, for the bay was full
of little boats, the shore so picturesque, and a rosy
sky overhead. I never shall forget it.
At Queenstown one of my new acquaintances
left us, Mr. Lennox, and when I said something about
the Lakes of Killarney, he sighed, and sung, with
a look at me . . .
“Oh, have you e’er
heard of Kate Kearney?
She lives on the banks of
Killarney;
From the glance of her eye,
Shun danger and fly,
For fatal’s the glance
of Kate Kearney.”
Wasn’t that nonsensical?
We only stopped at Liverpool a few
hours. It’s a dirty, noisy place, and
I was glad to leave it. Uncle rushed out and
bought a pair of dogskin gloves, some ugly, thick shoes,
and an umbrella, and got shaved ’a la
mutton chop, the first thing. Then he flattered
himself that he looked like a true Briton, but the
first time he had the mud cleaned off his shoes, the
little bootblack knew that an American stood in them,
and said, with a grin, “There yer har, sir.
I’ve given ’em the latest Yankee shine.”
It amused Uncle immensely. Oh, I must tell you
what that absurd Lennox did! He got his friend
Ward, who came on with us, to order a bouquet for
me, and the first thing I saw in my room was a lovely
one, with “Robert Lennox’s compliments,”
on the card. Wasn’t that fun, girls?
I like traveling.
I never shall get to London if I don’t
hurry. The trip was like riding through a long
picture gallery, full of lovely landscapes. The
farmhouses were my delight, with thatched roofs, ivy
up to the eaves, latticed windows, and stout women
with rosy children at the doors. The very cattle
looked more tranquil than ours, as they stood knee-deep
in clover, and the hens had a contented cluck, as
if they never got nervous like Yankee biddies.
Such perfect color I never saw, the grass so green,
sky so blue, grain so yellow, woods so dark, I was
in a rapture all the way. So was Flo, and we
kept bouncing from one side to the other, trying to
see everything while we were whisking along at the
rate of sixty miles an hour. Aunt was tired and
went to sleep, but Uncle read his guidebook, and wouldn’t
be astonished at anything. This is the way we
went on. Amy, flying up—“Oh,
that must be Kenilworth, that gray place among the
trees!” Flo, darting to my window—“How
sweet! We must go there sometime, won’t
we Papa?” Uncle, calmly admiring his boots—“No,
my dear, not unless you want beer, that’s a
brewery.”
A pause—then Flo cried
out, “Bless me, there’s a gallows and
a man going up.” “Where, where?”
shrieks Amy, staring out at two tall posts with a
crossbeam and some dangling chains. “A
colliery,” remarks Uncle, with a twinkle of
the eye. “Here’s a lovely flock
of lambs all lying down,” says Amy. “See,
Papa, aren’t they pretty?” added Flo sentimentally.
“Geese, young ladies,” returns Uncle,
in a tone that keeps us quiet till Flo settles down
to enjoy the Flirtations of Captain Cavendish,
and I have the scenery all to myself.
Of course it rained when we got to
London, and there was nothing to be seen but fog and
umbrellas. We rested, unpacked, and shopped
a little between the showers. Aunt Mary got me
some new things, for I came off in such a hurry I
wasn’t half ready. A white hat and blue
feather, a muslin dress to match, and the loveliest
mantle you ever saw. Shopping in Regent Street
is perfectly splendid. Things seem so cheap,
nice ribbons only sixpence a yard. I laid in
a stock, but shall get my gloves in Paris. Doesn’t
that sound sort of elegant and rich?
Flo and I, for the fun of it, ordered
a hansom cab, while Aunt and Uncle were out, and went
for a drive, though we learned afterward that it wasn’t
the thing for young ladies to ride in them alone.
It was so droll! For when we were shut in by
the wooden apron, the man drove so fast that Flo was
frightened, and told me to stop him, but he was up
outside behind somewhere, and I couldn’t get
at him. He didn’t hear me call, nor see
me flap my parasol in front, and there we were, quite
helpless, rattling away, and whirling around corners
at a breakneck pace. At last, in my despair,
I saw a little door in the roof, and on poking it
open, a red eye appeared, and a beery voice said .
. .
“Now, then, mum?”
I gave my order as soberly as I could,
and slamming down the door, with an “Aye, aye,
mum,” the man made his horse walk, as if going
to a funeral. I poked again and said, “A
little faster,” then off he went, helter-skelter
as before, and we resigned ourselves to our fate.
Today was fair, and we went to Hyde
Park, close by, for we are more aristocratic than
we look. The Duke of Devonshire lives near.
I often see his footmen lounging at the back gate,
and the Duke of Wellington’s house is not far
off. Such sights as I saw, my dear! It
was as good as Punch, for there were fat dowagers
rolling about in their red and yellow coaches, with
gorgeous Jeameses in silk stockings and velvet coats,
up behind, and powdered coachmen in front. Smart
maids, with the rosiest children I ever saw, handsome
girls, looking half asleep, dandies in queer English
hats and lavender kids lounging about, and tall soldiers,
in short red jackets and muffin caps stuck on one side,
looking so funny I longed to sketch them.
Rotten Row means ‘Route de Roi’,
or the king’s way, but now it’s more like
a riding school than anything else. The horses
are splendid, and the men, especially the grooms, ride
well, but the women are stiff, and bounce, which isn’t
according to our rules. I longed to show them
a tearing American gallop, for they trotted solemnly
up and down, in their scant habits and high hats,
looking like the women in a toy Noah’s Ark.
Everyone rides—old men, stout ladies, little
children— and the young folks do a deal
of flirting here, I saw a pair exchange rose buds,
for it’s the thing to wear one in the button-hole,
and I thought it rather a nice little idea.
In the P.M. to Westminster Abbey,
but don’t expect me to describe it, that’s
impossible, so I’ll only say it was sublime!
This evening we are going to see Fechter, which will
be an appropriate end to the happiest day of my life.
It’s very late, but I can’t
let my letter go in the morning without telling you
what happened last evening. Who do you think
came in, as we were at tea? Laurie’s English
friends, Fred and Frank Vaughn! I was so surprised,
for I shouldn’t have known them but for the
cards. Both are tall fellows with whiskers,
Fred handsome in the English style, and Frank much
better, for he only limps slightly, and uses no crutches.
They had heard from Laurie where we were to be, and
came to ask us to their house, but Uncle won’t
go, so we shall return the call, and see them as we
can. They went to the theater with us, and we
did have such a good time, for Frank devoted himself
to Flo, and Fred and I talked over past, present,
and future fun as if we had known each other all our
days. Tell Beth Frank asked for her, and was
sorry to hear of her ill health. Fred laughed
when I spoke of Jo, and sent his ‘respectful
compliments to the big hat’. Neither of
them had forgotten Camp Laurence, or the fun we had
there. What ages ago it seems, doesn’t
it?
Aunt is tapping on the wall for the
third time, so I must stop. I really feel like
a dissipated London fine lady, writing here so late,
with my room full of pretty things, and my head a
jumble of parks, theaters, new gowns, and gallant creatures
who say “Ah!” and twirl their blond mustaches
with the true English lordliness. I long to
see you all, and in spite of my nonsense am, as ever,
your loving . . .
AMY
PARIS
Dear girls,
In my last I told you about our London
visit, how kind the Vaughns were, and what pleasant
parties they made for us. I enjoyed the trips
to Hampton Court and the Kensington Museum more than
anything else, for at Hampton I saw Raphael’s
cartoons, and at the Museum, rooms full of pictures
by Turner, Lawrence, Reynolds, Hogarth, and the other
great creatures. The day in Richmond Park was
charming, for we had a regular English picnic, and
I had more splendid oaks and groups of deer than I
could copy, also heard a nightingale, and saw larks
go up. We ‘did’ London to our heart’s
content, thanks to Fred and Frank, and were sorry
to go away, for though English people are slow to take
you in, when they once make up their minds to do it
they cannot be outdone in hospitality, I think.
The Vaughns hope to meet us in Rome next winter,
and I shall be dreadfully disappointed if they don’t,
for Grace and I are great friends, and the boys very
nice fellows, especially Fred.
Well, we were hardly settled here,
when he turned up again, saying he had come for a
holiday, and was going to Switzerland. Aunt looked
sober at first, but he was so cool about it she couldn’t
say a word. And now we get on nicely, and are
very glad he came, for he speaks French like a native,
and I don’t know what we should do without him.
Uncle doesn’t know ten words, and insists on
talking English very loud, as if it would make people
understand him. Aunt’s pronunciation is
old-fashioned, and Flo and I, though we flattered ourselves
that we knew a good deal, find we don’t, and
are very grateful to have Fred do the ‘parley
vooing’, as Uncle calls it.
Such delightful times as we are having!
Sight-seeing from morning till night, stopping for
nice lunches in the gay cafes, and meeting
with all sorts of droll adventures. Rainy days
I spend in the Louvre, revelling in pictures.
Jo would turn up her naughty nose at some of the
finest, because she has no soul for art, but I have,
and I’m cultivating eye and taste as fast as
I can. She would like the relics of great people
better, for I’ve seen her Napoleon’s cocked
hat and gray coat, his baby’s cradle and his
old toothbrush, also Marie Antoinette’s little
shoe, the ring of Saint Denis, Charlemagne’s
sword, and many other interesting things. I’ll
talk for hours about them when I come, but haven’t
time to write.
The Palais Royale is a heavenly place,
so full of bijouterie and lovely things that
I’m nearly distracted because I can’t
buy them. Fred wanted to get me some, but of
course I didn’t allow it. Then the Bois
and Champs Elysees are tres magnifique.
I’ve seen the imperial family several times,
the emperor an ugly, hard-looking man, the empress
pale and pretty, but dressed in bad taste, I thought—purple
dress, green hat, and yellow gloves. Little Nap
is a handsome boy, who sits chatting to his tutor,
and kisses his hand to the people as he passes in his
four-horse barouche, with postilions in red satin
jackets and a mounted guard before and behind.
We often walk in the Tuileries Gardens,
for they are lovely, though the antique Luxembourg
Gardens suit me better. Pere la Chaise is very
curious, for many of the tombs are like small rooms,
and looking in, one sees a table, with images or pictures
of the dead, and chairs for the mourners to sit in
when they come to lament. That is so Frenchy.
Our rooms are on the Rue de Rivoli,
and sitting on the balcony, we look up and down the
long, brilliant street. It is so pleasant that
we spend our evenings talking there when too tired
with our day’s work to go out. Fred is
very entertaining, and is altogether the most agreeable
young man I ever knew— except Laurie, whose
manners are more charming. I wish Fred was dark,
for I don’t fancy light men, however, the Vaughns
are very rich and come of an excellent family, so I
won’t find fault with their yellow hair, as
my own is yellower.
Next week we are off to Germany and
Switzerland, and as we shall travel fast, I shall
only be able to give you hasty letters. I keep
my diary, and try to ’remember correctly and
describe clearly all that I see and admire’,
as Father advised. It is good practice for me,
and with my sketchbook will give you a better idea
of my tour than these scribbles.
Adieu, I embrace you tenderly.
“Votre Amie.”“
HEIDELBERG
My dear Mamma,
Having a quiet hour before we leave
for Berne, I’ll try to tell you what has happened,
for some of it is very important, as you will see.
The sail up the Rhine was perfect,
and I just sat and enjoyed it with all my might.
Get Father’s old guidebooks and read about
it. I haven’t words beautiful enough to
describe it. At Coblentz we had a lovely time,
for some students from Bonn, with whom Fred got acquainted
on the boat, gave us a serenade. It was a moonlight
night, and about one o’clock Flo and I were
waked by the most delicious music under our windows.
We flew up, and hid behind the curtains, but sly
peeps showed us Fred and the students singing away
down below. It was the most romantic thing I
ever saw—the river, the bridge of boats,
the great fortress opposite, moonlight everywhere,
and music fit to melt a heart of stone.
When they were done we threw down
some flowers, and saw them scramble for them, kiss
their hands to the invisible ladies, and go laughing
away, to smoke and drink beer, I suppose. Next
morning Fred showed me one of the crumpled flowers
in his vest pocket, and looked very sentimental.
I laughed at him, and said I didn’t throw it,
but Flo, which seemed to disgust him, for he tossed
it out of the window, and turned sensible again.
I’m afraid I’m going to have trouble
with that boy, it begins to look like it.
The baths at Nassau were very gay,
so was Baden-Baden, where Fred lost some money, and
I scolded him. He needs someone to look after
him when Frank is not with him. Kate said once
she hoped he’d marry soon, and I quite agree
with her that it would be well for him. Frankfurt
was delightful. I saw Goethe’s house,
Schiller’s statue, and Dannecker’s famous
‘Ariadne.’ It was very lovely, but
I should have enjoyed it more if I had known the story
better. I didn’t like to ask, as everyone
knew it or pretended they did. I wish Jo would
tell me all about it. I ought to have read more,
for I find I don’t know anything, and it mortifies
me.
Now comes the serious part, for it
happened here, and Fred has just gone. He has
been so kind and jolly that we all got quite fond
of him. I never thought of anything but a traveling
friendship till the serenade night. Since then
I’ve begun to feel that the moonlight walks,
balcony talks, and daily adventures were something
more to him than fun. I haven’t flirted,
Mother, truly, but remembered what you said to me,
and have done my very best. I can’t help
it if people like me. I don’t try to make
them, and it worries me if I don’t care for them,
though Jo says I haven’t got any heart.
Now I know Mother will shake her head, and the girls
say, “Oh, the mercenary little wretch!”,
but I’ve made up my mind, and if Fred asks me,
I shall accept him, though I’m not madly in
love. I like him, and we get on comfortably
together. He is handsome, young, clever enough,
and very rich—ever so much richer than
the Laurences. I don’t think his family
would object, and I should be very happy, for they
are all kind, well-bred, generous people, and they
like me. Fred, as the eldest twin, will have
the estate, I suppose, and such a splendid one it
is! A city house in a fashionable street, not
so showy as our big houses, but twice as comfortable
and full of solid luxury, such as English people believe
in. I like it, for it’s genuine.
I’ve seen the plate, the family jewels, the
old servants, and pictures of the country place, with
its park, great house, lovely grounds, and fine horses.
Oh, it would be all I should ask! And I’d
rather have it than any title such as girls snap up
so readily, and find nothing behind. I may be
mercenary, but I hate poverty, and don’t mean
to bear it a minute longer than I can help.
One of us must marry well. Meg didn’t,
Jo won’t, Beth can’t yet, so I shall,
and make everything okay all round. I wouldn’t
marry a man I hated or despised. You may be
sure of that, and though Fred is not my model hero,
he does very well, and in time I should get fond enough
of him if he was very fond of me, and let me do just
as I liked. So I’ve been turning the matter
over in my mind the last week, for it was impossible
to help seeing that Fred liked me. He said nothing,
but little things showed it. He never goes with
Flo, always gets on my side of the carriage, table,
or promenade, looks sentimental when we are alone,
and frowns at anyone else who ventures to speak to
me. Yesterday at dinner, when an Austrian officer
stared at us and then said something to his friend,
a rakish-looking baron, about ’ein wonderschones
Blondchen’, Fred looked as fierce as a lion,
and cut his meat so savagely it nearly flew off his
plate. He isn’t one of the cool, stiff
Englishmen, but is rather peppery, for he has Scotch
blood in him, as one might guess from his bonnie blue
eyes.
Well, last evening we went up to the
castle about sunset, at least all of us but Fred,
who was to meet us there after going to the Post Restante
for letters. We had a charming time poking about
the ruins, the vaults where the monster tun is, and
the beautiful gardens made by the elector long ago
for his English wife. I liked the great terrace
best, for the view was divine, so while the rest went
to see the rooms inside, I sat there trying to sketch
the gray stone lion’s head on the wall, with
scarlet woodbine sprays hanging round it. I
felt as if I’d got into a romance, sitting there,
watching the Neckar rolling through the valley, listening
to the music of the Austrian band below, and waiting
for my lover, like a real storybook girl. I had
a feeling that something was going to happen and I
was ready for it. I didn’t feel blushy
or quakey, but quite cool and only a little excited.
By-and-by I heard Fred’s voice,
and then he came hurrying through the great arch to
find me. He looked so troubled that I forgot
all about myself, and asked what the matter was.
He said he’d just got a letter begging him
to come home, for Frank was very ill. So he
was going at once on the night train and only had
time to say good-by. I was very sorry for him,
and disappointed for myself, but only for a minute
because he said, as he shook hands, and said it in
a way that I could not mistake, “I shall soon
come back, you won’t forget me, Amy?”
I didn’t promise, but I looked
at him, and he seemed satisfied, and there was no
time for anything but messages and good-byes, for
he was off in an hour, and we all miss him very much.
I know he wanted to speak, but I think, from something
he once hinted, that he had promised his father not
to do anything of the sort yet a while, for he is
a rash boy, and the old gentleman dreads a foreign
daughter-in-law. We shall soon meet in Rome,
and then, if I don’t change my mind, I’ll
say “Yes, thank you,” when he says “Will
you, please?”
Of course this is all very private,
but I wished you to know what was going on.
Don’t be anxious about me, remember I am your
‘prudent Amy’, and be sure I will do nothing
rashly. Send me as much advice as you like.
I’ll use it if I can. I wish I could
see you for a good talk, Marmee. Love and trust
me.
Ever your AMY