Shaphambury seemed an odd place to
me even then. But something was quickening in
me at that time to feel the oddness of many accepted
things. Now in the retrospect I see it as intensely
queer. The whole place was strange to my untraveled
eyes; the sea even was strange. Only twice in
my life had I been at the seaside before, and then
I had gone by excursion to places on the Welsh coast
whose great cliffs of rock and mountain backgrounds
made the effect of the horizon very different from
what it is upon the East Anglian seaboard. Here
what they call a cliff was a crumbling bank of whitey-brown
earth not fifty feet high.
So soon as I arrived I made a systematic
exploration of Shaphambury. To this day I retain
the clearest memories of the plan I shaped out then,
and how my inquiries were incommoded by the overpowering
desire of every one to talk of the chances of a German
raid, before the Channel Fleet got round to us.
I slept at a small public-house in a Shaphambury back
street on Sunday night. I did not get on to Shaphambury
from Wyvern until two in the afternoon, because of
the infrequency of Sunday trains, and I got no clue
whatever until late in the afternoon of Monday.
As the little local train bumped into sight of the
place round the curve of a swelling hill, one saw
a series of undulating grassy spaces, amidst which
a number of conspicuous notice-boards appealed to
the eye and cut up the distant sea horizon. Most
of these referred to comestibles or to remedies to
follow the comestibles; and they were colored with
a view to be memorable rather than beautiful, to “stand
out” amidst the gentle grayish tones of the
east coast scenery. The greater number, I may
remark, of the advertisements that were so conspicuous
a factor in the life of those days, and which rendered
our vast tree-pulp newspapers possible, referred to
foods, drinks, tobacco, and the drugs that promised
a restoration of the equanimity these other articles
had destroyed. Wherever one went one was reminded
in glaring letters that, after all, man was little
better than a worm, that eyeless, earless thing that
burrows and lives uncomplainingly amidst nutritious
dirt, “an alimentary canal with the subservient
appendages thereto.” But in addition to
such boards there were also the big black and white
boards of various grandiloquently named “estates.”
The individualistic enterprise of that time had led
to the plotting out of nearly all the country round
the seaside towns into roads and building-plots—all
but a small portion of the south and east coast was
in this condition, and had the promises of those schemes
been realized the entire population of the island might
have been accommodated upon the sea frontiers.
Nothing of the sort happened, of course; the whole
of this uglification of the coast-line was done to
stimulate a little foolish gambling in plots, and
one saw everywhere agents’ boards in every state
of freshness and decay, ill-made exploitation roads
overgrown with grass, and here and there, at a corner,
a label, “Trafalgar Avenue,” or “Sea
View Road.” Here and there, too, some small
investor, some shopman with “savings,”
had delivered his soul to the local builders and built
himself a house, and there it stood, ill-designed,
mean-looking, isolated, ill-placed on a cheaply fenced
plot, athwart which his domestic washing fluttered
in the breeze amidst a bleak desolation of enterprise.
Then presently our railway crossed a high road, and
a row of mean yellow brick houses—workmen’s
cottages, and the filthy black sheds that made the
“allotments” of that time a universal
eyesore, marked our approach to the more central areas
of—I quote the local guidebook—“one
of the most delightful resorts in the East Anglian
poppy-land.” Then more mean houses, the
gaunt ungainliness of the electric force station—it
had a huge chimney, because no one understood how
to make combustion of coal complete—and
then we were in the railway station, and barely three-quarters
of a mile from the center of this haunt of health
and pleasure.
I inspected the town thoroughly before
I made my inquiries. The road began badly with
a row of cheap, pretentious, insolvent-looking shops,
a public-house, and a cab-stand, but, after an interval
of little red villas that were partly hidden amidst
shrubbery gardens, broke into a confusedly bright
but not unpleasing High Street, shuttered that afternoon
and sabbatically still. Somewhere in the background
a church bell jangled, and children in bright, new-looking
clothes were going to Sunday-school. Thence through
a square of stuccoed lodging-houses, that seemed a
finer and cleaner version of my native square, I came
to a garden of asphalt and euonymus—the
Sea Front. I sat down on a cast-iron seat, and
surveyed first of all the broad stretches of muddy,
sandy beach, with its queer wheeled bathing machines,
painted with the advertisements of somebody’s
pills—and then at the house fronts that
stared out upon these visceral counsels. Boarding-houses,
private hotels, and lodging-houses in terraces clustered
closely right and left of me, and then came to an
end; in one direction scaffolding marked a building
enterprise in progress, in the other, after a waste
interval, rose a monstrous bulging red shape, a huge
hotel, that dwarfed all other things. Northward
were low pale cliffs with white denticulations of tents,
where the local volunteers, all under arms, lay encamped,
and southward, a spreading waste of sandy dunes, with
occasional bushes and clumps of stunted pine and an
advertisement board or so. A hard blue sky hung
over all this prospect, the sunshine cast inky shadows,
and eastward was a whitish sea. It was Sunday,
and the midday meal still held people indoors.
A queer world! thought I even then—to
you now it must seem impossibly queer,—and
after an interval I forced myself back to my own affair.
How was I to ask? What was I
to ask for? I puzzled for a long time over that—at
first I was a little tired and indolent—and
then presently I had a flow of ideas.
My solution was fairly ingenious.
I invented the following story. I happened to
be taking a holiday in Shaphambury, and I was making
use of the opportunity to seek the owner of a valuable
feather boa, which had been left behind in the hotel
of my uncle at Wyvern by a young lady, traveling with
a young gentleman—no doubt a youthful married
couple. They had reached Shaphambury somewhen
on Thursday. I went over the story many times,
and gave my imaginary uncle and his hotel plausible
names. At any rate this yarn would serve as a
complete justification for all the questions I might
wish to ask.
I settled that, but I still sat for
a time, wanting the energy to begin. Then I turned
toward the big hotel. Its gorgeous magnificence
seemed to my inexpert judgment to indicate the very
place a rich young man of good family would select.
Huge draught-proof doors were swung
round for me by an ironically polite under-porter
in a magnificent green uniform, who looked at my clothes
as he listened to my question and then with a German
accent referred me to a gorgeous head porter, who directed
me to a princely young man behind a counter of brass
and polish, like a bank—like several banks.
This young man, while he answered me, kept his eye
on my collar and tie—and I knew that they
were abominable.
“I want to find a lady and gentleman
who came to Shaphambury on Tuesday,” I said.
“Friends of yours?” he
asked with a terrible fineness of irony.
I made out at last that here at any
rate the young people had not been. They might
have lunched there, but they had had no room.
But I went out—door opened again for me
obsequiously—in a state of social discomfiture,
and did not attack any other establishment that afternoon.
My resolution had come to a sort of
ebb. More people were promenading, and their
Sunday smartness abashed me. I forgot my purpose
in an acute sense of myself. I felt that the
bulge of my pocket caused by the revolver was conspicuous,
and I was ashamed. I went along the sea front
away from the town, and presently lay down among pebbles
and sea poppies. This mood of reaction prevailed
with me all that afternoon. In the evening, about
sundown, I went to the station and asked questions
of the outporters there. But outporters, I found,
were a class of men who remembered luggage rather than
people, and I had no sort of idea what luggage young
Verrall and Nettie were likely to have with them.
Then I fell into conversation with
a salacious wooden-legged old man with a silver ring,
who swept the steps that went down to the beach from
the parade. He knew much about young couples,
but only in general terms, and nothing of the particular
young couple I sought. He reminded me in the
most disagreeable way of the sensuous aspects of life,
and I was not sorry when presently a gunboat appeared
in the offing signalling the coastguard and the camp,
and cut short his observations upon holidays, beaches,
and morals.
I went, and now I was past my ebb,
and sat in a seat upon the parade, and watched the
brightening of those rising clouds of chilly fire
that made the ruddy west seem tame. My midday
lassitude was going, my blood was running warmer again.
And as the twilight and that filmy brightness replaced
the dusty sunlight and robbed this unfamiliar place
of all its matter-of-fact queerness, its sense of aimless
materialism, romance returned to me, and passion, and
my thoughts of honor and revenge. I remember
that change of mood as occurring very vividly on this
occasion, but I fancy that less distinctly I had felt
this before many times. In the old times, night
and the starlight had an effect of intimate reality
the daytime did not possess. The daytime—as
one saw it in towns and populous places—had
hold of one, no doubt, but only as an uproar might,
it was distracting, conflicting, insistent. Darkness
veiled the more salient aspects of those agglomerations
of human absurdity, and one could exist—one
could imagine.
I had a queer illusion that night,
that Nettie and her lover were close at hand, that
suddenly I should come on them. I have already
told how I went through the dusk seeking them in every
couple that drew near. And I dropped asleep at
last in an unfamiliar bedroom hung with gaudily decorated
texts, cursing myself for having wasted a day.