My next business was to descend upon
the river. I had lost sight of the pass which
I had seen from the saddle, but had made such notes
of it that I could not fail to find it. I was
bruised and stiff, and my boots had begun to give,
for I had been going on rough ground for more than
three weeks; but, as the day wore on, and I found
myself descending without serious difficulty, I became
easier. In a couple of hours I got among pine
forests where there was little undergrowth, and descended
quickly till I reached the edge of another precipice,
which gave me a great deal of trouble, though I eventually
managed to avoid it. By about three or four
o’clock I found myself on the river-bed.
From calculations which I made as
to the height of the valley on the other side the
saddle over which I had come, I concluded that the
saddle itself could not be less than nine thousand
feet high; and I should think that the river-bed,
on to which I now descended, was three thousand feet
above the sea-level. The water had a terrific
current, with a fall of not less than forty to fifty
feet per mile. It was certainly the river next
to the northward of that which flowed past my master’s
run, and would have to go through an impassable gorge
(as is commonly the case with the rivers of that country)
before it came upon known parts. It was reckoned
to be nearly two thousand feet above the sea-level
where it came out of the gorge on to the plains.
As soon as I got to the river side
I liked it even less than I thought I should.
It was muddy, being near its parent glaciers.
The stream was wide, rapid, and rough, and I could
hear the smaller stones knocking against each other
under the rage of the waters, as upon a seashore.
Fording was out of the question. I could not
swim and carry my swag, and I dared not leave my swag
behind me. My only chance was to make a small
raft; and that would be difficult to make, and not
at all safe when it was made,—not for one
man in such a current.
As it was too late to do much that
afternoon, I spent the rest of it in going up and
down the river side, and seeing where I should find
the most favourable crossing. Then I camped
early, and had a quiet comfortable night with no more
music, for which I was thankful, as it had haunted
me all day, although I perfectly well knew that it
had been nothing but my own fancy, brought on by the
reminiscence of what I had heard from Chowbok and
by the over-excitement of the preceding evening.
Next day I began gathering the dry
bloom stalks of a kind of flag or iris-looking plant,
which was abundant, and whose leaves, when torn into
strips, were as strong as the strongest string.
I brought them to the waterside, and fell to making
myself a kind of rough platform, which should suffice
for myself and my swag if I could only stick to it.
The stalks were ten or twelve feet long, and very
strong, but light and hollow. I made my raft
entirely of them, binding bundles of them at right
angles to each other, neatly and strongly, with strips
from the leaves of the same plant, and tying other
rods across. It took me all day till nearly
four o’clock to finish the raft, but I had still
enough daylight for crossing, and resolved on doing
so at once.
I had selected a place where the river
was broad and comparatively still, some seventy or
eighty yards above a furious rapid. At this spot
I had built my raft. I now launched it, made
my swag fast to the middle, and got on to it myself,
keeping in my hand one of the longest blossom stalks,
so that I might punt myself across as long as the water
was shallow enough to let me do so. I got on
pretty well for twenty or thirty yards from the shore,
but even in this short space I nearly upset my raft
by shifting too rapidly from one side to the other.
The water then became much deeper, and I leaned over
so far in order to get the bloom rod to the bottom
that I had to stay still, leaning on the rod for a
few seconds. Then, when I lifted up the rod from
the ground, the current was too much for me and I
found myself being carried down the rapid. Everything
in a second flew past me, and I had no more control
over the raft; neither can I remember anything except
hurry, and noise, and waters which in the end upset
me. But it all came right, and I found myself
near the shore, not more than up to my knees in water
and pulling my raft to land, fortunately upon the
left bank of the river, which was the one I wanted.
When I had landed I found that I was about a mile,
or perhaps a little less, below the point from which
I started. My swag was wet upon the outside,
and I was myself dripping; but I had gained my point,
and knew that my difficulties were for a time over.
I then lit my fire and dried myself; having done
so I caught some of the young ducks and sea-gulls,
which were abundant on and near the river-bed, so that
I had not only a good meal, of which I was in great
want, having had an insufficient diet from the time
that Chowbok left me, but was also well provided for
the morrow.
I thought of Chowbok, and felt how
useful he had been to me, and in how many ways I was
the loser by his absence, having now to do all sorts
of things for myself which he had hitherto done for
me, and could do infinitely better than I could.
Moreover, I had set my heart upon making him a real
convert to the Christian religion, which he had already
embraced outwardly, though I cannot think that it had
taken deep root in his impenetrably stupid nature.
I used to catechise him by our camp fire, and explain
to him the mysteries of the Trinity and of original
sin, with which I was myself familiar, having been
the grandson of an archdeacon by my mother’s
side, to say nothing of the fact that my father was
a clergyman of the English Church. I was therefore
sufficiently qualified for the task, and was the more
inclined to it, over and above my real desire to save
the unhappy creature from an eternity of torture,
by recollecting the promise of St. James, that if any
one converted a sinner (which Chowbok surely was)
he should hide a multitude of sins. I reflected,
therefore, that the conversion of Chowbok might in
some degree compensate for irregularities and short-comings
in my own previous life, the remembrance of which
had been more than once unpleasant to me during my
recent experiences.
Indeed, on one occasion I had even
gone so far as to baptize him, as well as I could,
having ascertained that he had certainly not been both
christened and baptized, and gathering (from his telling
me that he had received the name William from the
missionary) that it was probably the first-mentioned
rite to which he had been subjected. I thought
it great carelessness on the part of the missionary
to have omitted the second, and certainly more important,
ceremony which I have always understood precedes christening
both in the case of infants and of adult converts;
and when I thought of the risks we were both incurring
I determined that there should be no further delay.
Fortunately it was not yet twelve o’clock,
so I baptized him at once from one of the pannikins
(the only vessels I had) reverently, and, I trust,
efficiently. I then set myself to work to instruct
him in the deeper mysteries of our belief, and to
make him, not only in name, but in heart a Christian.
It is true that I might not have succeeded,
for Chowbok was very hard to teach. Indeed,
on the evening of the same day that I baptized him
he tried for the twentieth time to steal the brandy,
which made me rather unhappy as to whether I could
have baptized him rightly. He had a prayer-book—more
than twenty years old—which had been given
him by the missionaries, but the only thing in it
which had taken any living hold upon him was the title
of Adelaide the Queen Dowager, which he would repeat
whenever strongly moved or touched, and which did really
seem to have some deep spiritual significance to him,
though he could never completely separate her individuality
from that of Mary Magdalene, whose name had also fascinated
him, though in a less degree.
He was indeed stony ground, but by
digging about him I might have at any rate deprived
him of all faith in the religion of his tribe, which
would have been half way towards making him a sincere
Christian; and now all this was cut off from me, and
I could neither be of further spiritual assistance
to him nor he of bodily profit to myself: besides,
any company was better than being quite alone.
I got very melancholy as these reflections
crossed me, but when I had boiled the ducks and eaten
them I was much better. I had a little tea left
and about a pound of tobacco, which should last me
for another fortnight with moderate smoking.
I had also eight ship biscuits, and, most precious
of all, about six ounces of brandy, which I presently
reduced to four, for the night was cold.
I rose with early dawn, and in an
hour I was on my way, feeling strange, not to say
weak, from the burden of solitude, but full of hope
when I considered how many dangers I had overcome,
and that this day should see me at the summit of the
dividing range.
After a slow but steady climb of between
three and four hours, during which I met with no serious
hindrance, I found myself upon a tableland, and close
to a glacier which I recognised as marking the summit
of the pass. Above it towered a succession of
rugged precipices and snowy mountain sides.
The solitude was greater than I could bear; the mountain
upon my master’s sheep-run was a crowded thoroughfare
in comparison with this sombre sullen place.
The air, moreover, was dark and heavy, which made
the loneliness even more oppressive. There was
an inky gloom over all that was not covered with snow
and ice. Grass there was none.
Each moment I felt increasing upon
me that dreadful doubt as to my own identity—as
to the continuity of my past and present existence—which
is the first sign of that distraction which comes
on those who have lost themselves in the bush.
I had fought against this feeling hitherto, and had
conquered it; but the intense silence and gloom of
this rocky wilderness were too much for me, and I
felt that my power of collecting myself was beginning
to be impaired.
I rested for a little while, and then
advanced over very rough ground, until I reached the
lower end of the glacier. Then I saw another
glacier, descending from the eastern side into a small
lake. I passed along the western side of the
lake, where the ground was easier, and when I had
got about half way I expected that I should see the
plains which I had already seen from the opposite
mountains; but it was not to be so, for the clouds
rolled up to the very summit of the pass, though they
did not overlip it on to the side from which I had
come. I therefore soon found myself enshrouded
by a cold thin vapour, which prevented my seeing more
than a very few yards in front of me. Then I
came upon a large patch of old snow, in which I could
distinctly trace the half-melted tracks of goats—and
in one place, as it seemed to me, there had been a
dog following them. Had I lighted upon a land
of shepherds? The ground, where not covered
with snow, was so poor and stony, and there was so
little herbage, that I could see no sign of a path
or regular sheep-track. But I could not help
feeling rather uneasy as I wondered what sort of a
reception I might meet with if I were to come suddenly
upon inhabitants. I was thinking of this, and
proceeding cautiously through the mist, when I began
to fancy that I saw some objects darker than the cloud
looming in front of me. A few steps brought me
nearer, and a shudder of unutterable horror ran through
me when I saw a circle of gigantic forms, many times
higher than myself, upstanding grim and grey through
the veil of cloud before me.
I suppose I must have fainted, for
I found myself some time afterwards sitting upon the
ground, sick and deadly cold. There were the
figures, quite still and silent, seen vaguely through
the thick gloom, but in human shape indisputably.
A sudden thought occurred to me, which
would have doubtless struck me at once had I not been
prepossessed with forebodings at the time that I first
saw the figures, and had not the cloud concealed them
from me—I mean that they were not living
beings, but statues. I determined that I would
count fifty slowly, and was sure that the objects were
not alive if during that time I could detect no sign
of motion.
How thankful was I when I came to
the end of my fifty and there had been no movement!
I counted a second time—but again all was
still.
I then advanced timidly forward, and
in another moment I saw that my surmise was correct.
I had come upon a sort of Stonehenge of rude and
barbaric figures, seated as Chowbok had sat when I
questioned him in the wool-shed, and with the same
superhumanly malevolent expression upon their faces.
They had been all seated, but two had fallen.
They were barbarous—neither Egyptian,
nor Assyrian, nor Japanese—different from
any of these, and yet akin to all. They were
six or seven times larger than life, of great antiquity,
worn and lichen grown. They were ten in number.
There was snow upon their heads and wherever snow
could lodge. Each statue had been built of four
or five enormous blocks, but how these had been raised
and put together is known to those alone who raised
them. Each was terrible after a different kind.
One was raging furiously, as in pain and great despair;
another was lean and cadaverous with famine; another
cruel and idiotic, but with the silliest simper that
can be conceived—this one had fallen, and
looked exquisitely ludicrous in his fall—the
mouths of all were more or less open, and as I looked
at them from behind, I saw that their heads had been
hollowed.
I was sick and shivering with cold.
Solitude had unmanned me already, and I was utterly
unfit to have come upon such an assembly of fiends
in such a dreadful wilderness and without preparation.
I would have given everything I had in the world
to have been back at my master’s station; but
that was not to be thought of: my head was failing,
and I felt sure that I could never get back alive.
Then came a gust of howling wind,
accompanied with a moan from one of the statues above
me. I clasped my hands in fear. I felt
like a rat caught in a trap, as though I would have
turned and bitten at whatever thing was nearest me.
The wildness of the wind increased, the moans grew
shriller, coming from several statues, and swelling
into a chorus. I almost immediately knew what
it was, but the sound was so unearthly that this was
but little consolation. The inhuman beings into
whose hearts the Evil One had put it to conceive these
statues, had made their heads into a sort of organ-pipe,
so that their mouths should catch the wind and sound
with its blowing. It was horrible. However
brave a man might be, he could never stand such a
concert, from such lips, and in such a place.
I heaped every invective upon them that my tongue could
utter as I rushed away from them into the mist, and
even after I had lost sight of them, and turning my
head round could see nothing but the storm-wraiths
driving behind me, I heard their ghostly chanting,
and felt as though one of them would rush after me
and grip me in his hand and throttle me.
I may say here that, since my return
to England, I heard a friend playing some chords upon
the organ which put me very forcibly in mind of the
Erewhonian statues (for Erewhon is the name of the
country upon which I was now entering). They
rose most vividly to my recollection the moment my
friend began. They are as follows, and are by
the greatest of all musicians:—{2}
[Music score which cannot be reproduced]