I cooeyed to him, but he would not
hear. I ran after him, but he had got too good
a start. Then I sat down on a stone and thought
the matter carefully over. It was plain that
Chowbok had designedly attempted to keep me from going
up this valley, yet he had shown no unwillingness to
follow me anywhere else. What could this mean,
unless that I was now upon the route by which alone
the mysteries of the great ranges could be revealed?
What then should I do? Go back at the very moment
when it had become plain that I was on the right scent?
Hardly; yet to proceed alone would be both difficult
and dangerous. It would be bad enough to return
to my master’s run, and pass through the rocky
gorges, with no chance of help from another should
I get into a difficulty; but to advance for any considerable
distance without a companion would be next door to
madness. Accidents which are slight when there
is another at hand (as the spraining of an ankle,
or the falling into some place whence escape would
be easy by means of an outstretched hand and a bit
of rope) may be fatal to one who is alone. The
more I pondered the less I liked it; and yet, the
less could I make up my mind to return when I looked
at the saddle at the head of the valley, and noted
the comparative ease with which its smooth sweep of
snow might be surmounted: I seemed to see my way
almost from my present position to the very top.
After much thought, I resolved to go forward until
I should come to some place which was really dangerous,
but then to return. I should thus, I hoped, at
any rate reach the top of the saddle, and satisfy
myself as to what might be on the other side.
I had no time to lose, for it was
now between ten and eleven in the morning. Fortunately
I was well equipped, for on leaving the camp and the
horses at the lower end of the valley I had provided
myself (according to my custom) with everything that
I was likely to want for four or five days.
Chowbok had carried half, but had dropped his whole
swag—I suppose, at the moment of his taking
flight—for I came upon it when I ran after
him. I had, therefore, his provisions as well
as my own. Accordingly, I took as many biscuits
as I thought I could carry, and also some tobacco,
tea, and a few matches. I rolled all these things
(together with a flask nearly full of brandy, which
I had kept in my pocket for fear lest Chowbok should
get hold of it) inside my blankets, and strapped them
very tightly, making the whole into a long roll of
some seven feet in length and six inches in diameter.
Then I tied the two ends together, and put the whole
round my neck and over one shoulder. This is
the easiest way of carrying a heavy swag, for one can
rest one’s self by shifting the burden from
one shoulder to the other. I strapped my pannikin
and a small axe about my waist, and thus equipped began
to ascend the valley, angry at having been misled
by Chowbok, but determined not to return till I was
compelled to do so.
I crossed and recrossed the stream
several times without difficulty, for there were many
good fords. At one o’clock I was at the
foot of the saddle; for four hours I mounted, the
last two on the snow, where the going was easier;
by five, I was within ten minutes of the top, in a
state of excitement greater, I think, than I had ever
known before. Ten minutes more, and the cold
air from the other side came rushing upon me.
A glance. I was not on the main range.
Another glance. There was an
awful river, muddy and horribly angry, roaring over
an immense river-bed, thousands of feet below me.
It went round to the westward, and
I could see no farther up the valley, save that there
were enormous glaciers which must extend round the
source of the river, and from which it must spring.
Another glance, and then I remained motionless.
There was an easy pass in the mountains
directly opposite to me, through which I caught a
glimpse of an immeasurable extent of blue and distant
plains.
Easy? Yes, perfectly easy; grassed
nearly to the summit, which was, as it were, an open
path between two glaciers, from which an inconsiderable
stream came tumbling down over rough but very possible
hillsides, till it got down to the level of the great
river, and formed a flat where there was grass and
a small bush of stunted timber.
Almost before I could believe my eyes,
a cloud had come up from the valley on the other side,
and the plains were hidden. What wonderful luck
was mine! Had I arrived five minutes later, the
cloud would have been over the pass, and I should
not have known of its existence. Now that the
cloud was there, I began to doubt my memory, and to
be uncertain whether it had been more than a blue
line of distant vapour that had filled up the opening.
I could only be certain of this much, namely, that
the river in the valley below must be the one next
to the northward of that which flowed past my master’s
station; of this there could be no doubt. Could
I, however, imagine that my luck should have led me
up a wrong river in search of a pass, and yet brought
me to the spot where I could detect the one weak place
in the fortifications of a more northern basin?
This was too improbable. But even as I doubted
there came a rent in the cloud opposite, and a second
time I saw blue lines of heaving downs, growing gradually
fainter, and retiring into a far space of plain.
It was substantial; there had been no mistake whatsoever.
I had hardly made myself perfectly sure of this,
ere the rent in the clouds joined up again and I could
see nothing more.
What, then, should I do? The
night would be upon me shortly, and I was already
chilled with standing still after the exertion of climbing.
To stay where I was would be impossible; I must either
go backwards or forwards. I found a rock which
gave me shelter from the evening wind, and took a
good pull at the brandy flask, which immediately warmed
and encouraged me.
I asked myself, Could I descend upon
the river-bed beneath me? It was impossible
to say what precipices might prevent my doing so.
If I were on the river-bed, dare I cross the river?
I am an excellent swimmer, yet, once in that frightful
rush of waters, I should be hurled whithersoever it
willed, absolutely powerless. Moreover, there
was my swag; I should perish of cold and hunger if
I left it, but I should certainly be drowned if I
attempted to carry it across the river. These
were serious considerations, but the hope of finding
an immense tract of available sheep country (which
I was determined that I would monopolise as far as
I possibly could) sufficed to outweigh them; and, in
a few minutes, I felt resolved that, having made so
important a discovery as a pass into a country which
was probably as valuable as that on our own side of
the ranges, I would follow it up and ascertain its
value, even though I should pay the penalty of failure
with life itself. The more I thought, the more
determined I became either to win fame and perhaps
fortune, by entering upon this unknown world, or give
up life in the attempt. In fact, I felt that
life would be no longer valuable if I were to have
seen so great a prize and refused to grasp at the possible
profits therefrom.
I had still an hour of good daylight
during which I might begin my descent on to some suitable
camping-ground, but there was not a moment to be lost.
At first I got along rapidly, for I was on the snow,
and sank into it enough to save me from falling, though
I went forward straight down the mountain side as
fast as I could; but there was less snow on this side
than on the other, and I had soon done with it, getting
on to a coomb of dangerous and very stony ground,
where a slip might have given me a disastrous fall.
But I was careful with all my speed, and got safely
to the bottom, where there were patches of coarse grass,
and an attempt here and there at brushwood: what
was below this I could not see. I advanced a
few hundred yards farther, and found that I was on
the brink of a frightful precipice, which no one in
his senses would attempt descending. I bethought
me, however, to try the creek which drained the coomb,
and see whether it might not have made itself a smoother
way. In a few minutes I found myself at the
upper end of a chasm in the rocks, something like
Twll Dhu, only on a greatly larger scale; the creek
had found its way into it, and had worn a deep channel
through a material which appeared softer than that
upon the other side of the mountain. I believe
it must have been a different geological formation,
though I regret to say that I cannot tell what it
was.
I looked at this rift in great doubt;
then I went a little way on either side of it, and
found myself looking over the edge of horrible precipices
on to the river, which roared some four or five thousand
feet below me. I dared not think of getting
down at all, unless I committed myself to the rift,
of which I was hopeful when I reflected that the rock
was soft, and that the water might have worn its channel
tolerably evenly through the whole extent. The
darkness was increasing with every minute, but I should
have twilight for another half-hour, so I went into
the chasm (though by no means without fear), and resolved
to return and camp, and try some other path next day,
should I come to any serious difficulty. In
about five minutes I had completely lost my head; the
side of the rift became hundreds of feet in height,
and overhung so that I could not see the sky.
It was full of rocks, and I had many falls and bruises.
I was wet through from falling into the water, of
which there was no great volume, but it had such force
that I could do nothing against it; once I had to
leap down a not inconsiderable waterfall into a deep
pool below, and my swag was so heavy that I was very
nearly drowned. I had indeed a hair’s-breadth
escape; but, as luck would have it, Providence was
on my side. Shortly afterwards I began to fancy
that the rift was getting wider, and that there was
more brushwood. Presently I found myself on an
open grassy slope, and feeling my way a little farther
along the stream, I came upon a flat place with wood,
where I could camp comfortably; which was well, for
it was now quite dark.
My first care was for my matches;
were they dry? The outside of my swag had got
completely wet; but, on undoing the blankets, I found
things warm and dry within. How thankful I was!
I lit a fire, and was grateful for its warmth and
company. I made myself some tea and ate two of
my biscuits: my brandy I did not touch, for I
had little left, and might want it when my courage
failed me. All that I did, I did almost mechanically,
for I could not realise my situation to myself, beyond
knowing that I was alone, and that return through the
chasm which I had just descended would be impossible.
It is a dreadful feeling that of being cut off from
all one’s kind. I was still full of hope,
and built golden castles for myself as soon as I was
warmed with food and fire; but I do not believe that
any man could long retain his reason in such solitude,
unless he had the companionship of animals. One
begins doubting one’s own identity.
I remember deriving comfort even from
the sight of my blankets, and the sound of my watch
ticking—things which seemed to link me to
other people; but the screaming of the wood-hens frightened
me, as also a chattering bird which I had never heard
before, and which seemed to laugh at me; though I
soon got used to it, and before long could fancy that
it was many years since I had first heard it.
I took off my clothes, and wrapped
my inside blanket about me, till my things were dry.
The night was very still, and I made a roaring fire;
so I soon got warm, and at last could put my clothes
on again. Then I strapped my blanket round me,
and went to sleep as near the fire as I could.
I dreamed that there was an organ
placed in my master’s wool-shed: the wool-shed
faded away, and the organ seemed to grow and grow amid
a blaze of brilliant light, till it became like a
golden city upon the side of a mountain, with rows
upon rows of pipes set in cliffs and precipices, one
above the other, and in mysterious caverns, like that
of Fingal, within whose depths I could see the burnished
pillars gleaming. In the front there was a flight
of lofty terraces, at the top of which I could see
a man with his head buried forward towards a key-board,
and his body swaying from side to side amid the storm
of huge arpeggioed harmonies that came crashing overhead
and round. Then there was one who touched me
on the shoulder, and said, “Do you not see? it
is Handel”;—but I had hardly apprehended,
and was trying to scale the terraces, and get near
him, when I awoke, dazzled with the vividness and distinctness
of the dream.
A piece of wood had burned through,
and the ends had fallen into the ashes with a blaze:
this, I supposed, had both given me my dream and robbed
me of it. I was bitterly disappointed, and sitting
up on my elbow, came back to reality and my strange
surroundings as best I could.
I was thoroughly aroused—moreover,
I felt a foreshadowing as though my attention were
arrested by something more than the dream, although
no sense in particular was as yet appealed to.
I held my breath and waited, and then I heard—was
it fancy? Nay; I listened again and again, and
I did hear a faint and extremely distant sound
of music, like that of an AEolian harp, borne upon
the wind which was blowing fresh and chill from the
opposite mountains.
The roots of my hair thrilled.
I listened, but the wind had died; and, fancying
that it must have been the wind itself—no;
on a sudden I remembered the noise which Chowbok had
made in the wool-shed. Yes; it was that.
Thank Heaven, whatever it was, it
was over now. I reasoned with myself, and recovered
my firmness. I became convinced that I had only
been dreaming more vividly than usual. Soon
I began even to laugh, and think what a fool I was
to be frightened at nothing, reminding myself that
even if I were to come to a bad end it would be no
such dreadful matter after all. I said my prayers,
a duty which I had too often neglected, and in a little
time fell into a really refreshing sleep, which lasted
till broad daylight, and restored me. I rose,
and searching among the embers of my fire, I found
a few live coals and soon had a blaze again.
I got breakfast, and was delighted to have the company
of several small birds, which hopped about me and
perched on my boots and hands. I felt comparatively
happy, but I can assure the reader that I had had a
far worse time of it than I have told him; and I strongly
recommend him to remain in Europe if he can; or, at
any rate, in some country which has been explored
and settled, rather than go into places where others
have not been before him. Exploring is delightful
to look forward to and back upon, but it is not comfortable
at the time, unless it be of such an easy nature as
not to deserve the name.