If the reader will excuse me, I will
say nothing of my antecedents, nor of the circumstances
which led me to leave my native country; the narrative
would be tedious to him and painful to myself.
Suffice it, that when I left home it was with the
intention of going to some new colony, and either
finding, or even perhaps purchasing, waste crown land
suitable for cattle or sheep farming, by which means
I thought that I could better my fortunes more rapidly
than in England.
It will be seen that I did not succeed
in my design, and that however much I may have met
with that was new and strange, I have been unable to
reap any pecuniary advantage.
It is true, I imagine myself to have
made a discovery which, if I can be the first to profit
by it, will bring me a recompense beyond all money
computation, and secure me a position such as has not
been attained by more than some fifteen or sixteen
persons, since the creation of the universe.
But to this end I must possess myself of a considerable
sum of money: neither do I know how to get it,
except by interesting the public in my story, and
inducing the charitable to come forward and assist
me. With this hope I now publish my adventures;
but I do so with great reluctance, for I fear that
my story will be doubted unless I tell the whole of
it; and yet I dare not do so, lest others with more
means than mine should get the start of me.
I prefer the risk of being doubted to that of being
anticipated, and have therefore concealed my destination
on leaving England, as also the point from which I
began my more serious and difficult journey.
My chief consolation lies in the fact
that truth bears its own impress, and that my story
will carry conviction by reason of the internal evidences
for its accuracy. No one who is himself honest
will doubt my being so.
I reached my destination in one of
the last months of 1868, but I dare not mention the
season, lest the reader should gather in which hemisphere
I was. The colony was one which had not been
opened up even to the most adventurous settlers for
more than eight or nine years, having been previously
uninhabited, save by a few tribes of savages who frequented
the seaboard. The part known to Europeans consisted
of a coast-line about eight hundred miles in length
(affording three or four good harbours), and a tract
of country extending inland for a space varying from
two to three hundred miles, until it a reached the
offshoots of an exceedingly lofty range of mountains,
which could be seen from far out upon the plains,
and were covered with perpetual snow. The coast
was perfectly well known both north and south of the
tract to which I have alluded, but in neither direction
was there a single harbour for five hundred miles,
and the mountains, which descended almost into the
sea, were covered with thick timber, so that none
would think of settling.
With this bay of land, however, the
case was different. The harbours were sufficient;
the country was timbered, but not too heavily; it was
admirably suited for agriculture; it also contained
millions on millions of acres of the most beautifully
grassed country in the world, and of the best suited
for all manner of sheep and cattle. The climate
was temperate, and very healthy; there were no wild
animals, nor were the natives dangerous, being few
in number and of an intelligent tractable disposition.
It may be readily understood that
when once Europeans set foot upon this territory they
were not slow to take advantage of its capabilities.
Sheep and cattle were introduced, and bred with extreme
rapidity; men took up their 50,000 or 100,000 acres
of country, going inland one behind the other, till
in a few years there was not an acre between the sea
and the front ranges which was not taken up, and stations
either for sheep or cattle were spotted about at intervals
of some twenty or thirty miles over the whole country.
The front ranges stopped the tide of squatters for
some little time; it was thought that there was too
much snow upon them for too many months in the year,—that
the sheep would get lost, the ground being too difficult
for shepherding,—that the expense of getting
wool down to the ship’s side would eat up the
farmer’s profits,—and that the grass
was too rough and sour for sheep to thrive upon; but
one after another determined to try the experiment,
and it was wonderful how successfully it turned out.
Men pushed farther and farther into the mountains,
and found a very considerable tract inside the front
range, between it and another which was loftier still,
though even this was not the highest, the great snowy
one which could be seen from out upon the plains.
This second range, however, seemed to mark the extreme
limits of pastoral country; and it was here, at a
small and newly founded station, that I was received
as a cadet, and soon regularly employed. I was
then just twenty-two years old.
I was delighted with the country and
the manner of life. It was my daily business
to go up to the top of a certain high mountain, and
down one of its spurs on to the flat, in order to
make sure that no sheep had crossed their boundaries.
I was to see the sheep, not necessarily close at hand,
nor to get them in a single mob, but to see enough
of them here and there to feel easy that nothing had
gone wrong; this was no difficult matter, for there
were not above eight hundred of them; and, being all
breeding ewes, they were pretty quiet.
There were a good many sheep which
I knew, as two or three black ewes, and a black lamb
or two, and several others which had some distinguishing
mark whereby I could tell them. I would try and
see all these, and if they were all there, and the
mob looked large enough, I might rest assured that
all was well. It is surprising how soon the eye
becomes accustomed to missing twenty sheep out of
two or three hundred. I had a telescope and
a dog, and would take bread and meat and tobacco with
me. Starting with early dawn, it would be night
before I could complete my round; for the mountain
over which I had to go was very high. In winter
it was covered with snow, and the sheep needed no watching
from above. If I were to see sheep dung or tracks
going down on to the other side of the mountain (where
there was a valley with a stream—a mere
cul de sac), I was to follow them, and look
out for sheep; but I never saw any, the sheep always
descending on to their own side, partly from habit,
and partly because there was abundance of good sweet
feed, which had been burnt in the early spring, just
before I came, and was now deliciously green and rich,
while that on the other side had never been burnt,
and was rank and coarse.
It was a monotonous life, but it was
very healthy and one does not much mind anything when
one is well. The country was the grandest that
can be imagined. How often have I sat on the
mountain side and watched the waving downs, with the
two white specks of huts in the distance, and the
little square of garden behind them; the paddock with
a patch of bright green oats above the huts, and the
yards and wool-sheds down on the flat below; all seen
as through the wrong end of a telescope, so clear and
brilliant was the air, or as upon a colossal model
or map spread out beneath me. Beyond the downs
was a plain, going down to a river of great size,
on the farther side of which there were other high
mountains, with the winter’s snow still not
quite melted; up the river, which ran winding in many
streams over a bed some two miles broad, I looked upon
the second great chain, and could see a narrow gorge
where the river retired and was lost. I knew
that there was a range still farther back; but except
from one place near the very top of my own mountain,
no part of it was visible: from this point, however,
I saw, whenever there were no clouds, a single snow-clad
peak, many miles away, and I should think about as
high as any mountain in the world. Never shall
I forget the utter loneliness of the prospect—only
the little far-away homestead giving sign of human
handiwork;—the vastness of mountain and
plain, of river and sky; the marvellous atmospheric
effects—sometimes black mountains against
a white sky, and then again, after cold weather, white
mountains against a black sky—sometimes
seen through breaks and swirls of cloud—and
sometimes, which was best of all, I went up my mountain
in a fog, and then got above the mist; going higher
and higher, I would look down upon a sea of whiteness,
through which would be thrust innumerable mountain
tops that looked like islands.
I am there now, as I write; I fancy
that I can see the downs, the huts, the plain, and
the river-bed—that torrent pathway of desolation,
with its distant roar of waters. Oh, wonderful!
wonderful! so lonely and so solemn, with the sad grey
clouds above, and no sound save a lost lamb bleating
upon the mountain side, as though its little heart
were breaking. Then there comes some lean and
withered old ewe, with deep gruff voice and unlovely
aspect, trotting back from the seductive pasture;
now she examines this gully, and now that, and now
she stands listening with uplifted head, that she
may hear the distant wailing and obey it. Aha!
they see, and rush towards each other. Alas!
they are both mistaken; the ewe is not the lamb’s
ewe, they are neither kin nor kind to one another,
and part in coldness. Each must cry louder, and
wander farther yet; may luck be with them both that
they may find their own at nightfall. But this
is mere dreaming, and I must proceed.
I could not help speculating upon
what might lie farther up the river and behind the
second range. I had no money, but if I could
only find workable country, I might stock it with
borrowed capital, and consider myself a made man.
True, the range looked so vast, that there seemed
little chance of getting a sufficient road through
it or over it; but no one had yet explored it, and
it is wonderful how one finds that one can make a
path into all sorts of places (and even get a road
for pack-horses), which from a distance appear inaccessible;
the river was so great that it must drain an inner
tract—at least I thought so; and though
every one said it would be madness to attempt taking
sheep farther inland, I knew that only three years
ago the same cry had been raised against the country
which my master’s flock was now overrunning.
I could not keep these thoughts out of my head as
I would rest myself upon the mountain side; they haunted
me as I went my daily rounds, and grew upon me from
hour to hour, till I resolved that after shearing I
would remain in doubt no longer, but saddle my horse,
take as much provision with me as I could, and go
and see for myself.
But over and above these thoughts
came that of the great range itself. What was
beyond it? Ah! who could say? There was
no one in the whole world who had the smallest idea,
save those who were themselves on the other side of
it—if, indeed, there was any one at all.
Could I hope to cross it? This would be the
highest triumph that I could wish for; but it was
too much to think of yet. I would try the nearer
range, and see how far I could go. Even if I
did not find country, might I not find gold, or diamonds,
or copper, or silver? I would sometimes lie flat
down to drink out of a stream, and could see little
yellow specks among the sand; were these gold?
People said no; but then people always said there
was no gold until it was found to be abundant:
there was plenty of slate and granite, which I had
always understood to accompany gold; and even though
it was not found in paying quantities here, it might
be abundant in the main ranges. These thoughts
filled my head, and I could not banish them.